Light Bicycle Carbon Rims/Wheels (Review Included on 1st Post))
- Thread starter ChopSticks
- Start date
The Duckmeister
Has a juicy midrange
I didn't count how many wheels I built in the couple of years I worked part-time in a wheelbuilding firm, but I'd have done several hundred....
Carbon rims are easier to build with than alloy 'cos of the inherent tensile stiffness, so they're less likely to flop out of shape as the tension goes up.
After lacing the spokes, wheelbuilding is broken down into four basic steps, which are cycled through three or four (sometimes more if you're not tuned in to the job on the day) times:
1: Build tension, noting that drive-side rear and disc-side front are more highly tensioned than their opposites due to the dishing of the wheel. Tension these sides first.
2: Lateral true.
3: Radial true.
4: Balance tension (use a tension gauge!)
The first cycle is pretty rough; get it reasonably tensioned so the wheel has some stability, pull it reasonably straight and reasonably round (to within about 1.5mm each way), then get the tension even - you want to be more precise on this step. Repeat, with finer adjustments & more precision, always in cycle, until it's done.
MTB Wanabe
Likes Dirt
I've got a similar background to Ducky and I'll add that between each step to take the wheel off the truing stand or whatever your building the wheel on and bed the spokes into the hub and rim. This is done by laying the wheel down so the hub is on the ground and rim is off the ground. It is a good idea to put something soft on the ground so as not to damage the hub. I then start from the valve hole and press on the rim at each lower spoke location and lightly unseat (make them loose) the lower spoke nipples. So for a 32 spoke wheel, I'll press on the rim 16 times on each side. I'll do this a few times during the final stages of building to ensure all of the slack is taken out of the spokes and that all of the components are seated. This step is also important for unwinding lightweight spokes, like Revolutions. If you don't do this throughout the build and particularly the tension phase, after your first ride out you will have to re-tension all of the spokes.
i doubt you'd save more than $150 building them yourself, probably even less. unless you build up your wheels with predominantly parts sourced from closeout sales, wheel builders can often get the spokes and other parts cheaper than you could source them individually, so they can squeeze in a reasonable margin for their time and still sell them at a price not a whole lot more than you could buy the parts for.
as many would say, punters usually get into building their own wheels not because of saving money, but for other reasons, usually related to satisfaction and flexibility. tooling up for wheelbuilding can cost a bit too (even if you build some of the tools yourself, by following musson's suggestions), such that it probably wouldn't become financially viable to build wheels yourself until you'd built about 3 or 4 wheelsets.
The Duckmeister
Has a juicy midrange
YES! I forgot to include this bit. Destressing is definitely a crucial part of the build process. There are a few methods, including the one above. Another is to stand the wheel on the ground & apply a compression load to the top of the rim, working around. Another method is to squat slightly, brace the rim in the crook of your hips, place your hands together at the opposite side of the rim & your elbows at each side, then pull up with your hands & push down with your elbows.
Whichever method is used, when the spokes stop pinging, the wheel is destressed & ready for the next round of the cycle.
Sputnick
Likes Bikes and Dirt
Ive got some LB 30mm 26" carbon rims on the way as well as some Hope Pro 2 evo hubs. Wondering what the best spokes for this would be?
I know CX rays are meant to be the ducks nuts but they cost a fortune, was thinking along the lines of DT Comps? What have other people used?
I know CX rays are meant to be the ducks nuts but they cost a fortune, was thinking along the lines of DT Comps? What have other people used?
Z
Zaf
Guest
What are you guys spending on the LB after delivery etc? with Hope hubs if I may ask?
The quotes I was getting for Hope hubs and the 33mm rims with DT spokes were nudging about the $900-1000 mark depending on exchange rates at the time.
Also did many of you look elsewhere for cheaper carbon rims? and if so, what made you settle on the LB's?
The quotes I was getting for Hope hubs and the 33mm rims with DT spokes were nudging about the $900-1000 mark depending on exchange rates at the time.
Also did many of you look elsewhere for cheaper carbon rims? and if so, what made you settle on the LB's?
Ivan
Eats Squid
Thats what I'd do to save weight on my next build. I generally run a 2.3" tyre on the front and a 2.1 on the rear.
bummer they don't do spokes < 250mm. Bike24 works out at about a buck a spoke too I think, plus shipping. Strange too with DT Comps how even with black spokes they ship silver finished nipples...
climberman
Likes Dirt
Cheers for the tips MTB W and Duckie - just built my first pair… all adds up to some nicely put extra info.
tasty.dirt74
Likes Bikes and Dirt
I have a set of rims, but I'm yet to build them up.
I can PM you with my initial impressions if you'd like, let me know.
Yes please that would be great
teK--
Eats Squid
Yup and makes em that much more prone to rocks. Mine are munched to hell :frusty:
eastie
Likes Bikes and Dirt
Was thinking rock strikes would be far more common on the wider rims. My originals were 30mm external ud matte and they have a few small marks after 2 years and have done really well - typically with 2.2 or 2.3 tyres.
The set I just built for the wife (pic) were 350g a rim, ud gloss 29er, worked out to about 1580g for the set on hope 32h hubs with dt db spokes laced 3x. I'd be sticking with matte on those wider rims.
The set I just built for the wife (pic) were 350g a rim, ud gloss 29er, worked out to about 1580g for the set on hope 32h hubs with dt db spokes laced 3x. I'd be sticking with matte on those wider rims.
Last edited: