I didn't count how many wheels I built in the couple of years I worked part-time in a wheelbuilding firm, but I'd have done several hundred....For those who are building them how much experience do you have in wheel building? How easy are they to build up?
I've got a similar background to Ducky and I'll add that between each step to take the wheel off the truing stand or whatever your building the wheel on and bed the spokes into the hub and rim. This is done by laying the wheel down so the hub is on the ground and rim is off the ground. It is a good idea to put something soft on the ground so as not to damage the hub. I then start from the valve hole and press on the rim at each lower spoke location and lightly unseat (make them loose) the lower spoke nipples. So for a 32 spoke wheel, I'll press on the rim 16 times on each side. I'll do this a few times during the final stages of building to ensure all of the slack is taken out of the spokes and that all of the components are seated. This step is also important for unwinding lightweight spokes, like Revolutions. If you don't do this throughout the build and particularly the tension phase, after your first ride out you will have to re-tension all of the spokes.I didn't count how many wheels I built in the couple of years I worked part-time in a wheelbuilding firm, but I'd have done several hundred....
Carbon rims are easier to build with than alloy 'cos of the inherent tensile stiffness, so they're less likely to flop out of shape as the tension goes up.
After lacing the spokes, wheelbuilding is broken down into four basic steps, which are cycled through three or four (sometimes more if you're not tuned in to the job on the day) times:
1: Build tension, noting that drive-side rear and disc-side front are more highly tensioned than their opposites due to the dishing of the wheel. Tension these sides first.
2: Lateral true.
3: Radial true.
4: Balance tension (use a tension gauge!)
The first cycle is pretty rough; get it reasonably tensioned so the wheel has some stability, pull it reasonably straight and reasonably round (to within about 1.5mm each way), then get the tension even - you want to be more precise on this step. Repeat, with finer adjustments & more precision, always in cycle, until it's done.
i doubt you'd save more than $150 building them yourself, probably even less. unless you build up your wheels with predominantly parts sourced from closeout sales, wheel builders can often get the spokes and other parts cheaper than you could source them individually, so they can squeeze in a reasonable margin for their time and still sell them at a price not a whole lot more than you could buy the parts for.Was going to be my next question. I am really only day dreaming though. I have a list a mile long of things to do around the house and learning to build wheels are not on that list. How much are you saving by building them yourselves v's buying them built?
YES! I forgot to include this bit. Destressing is definitely a crucial part of the build process. There are a few methods, including the one above. Another is to stand the wheel on the ground & apply a compression load to the top of the rim, working around. Another method is to squat slightly, brace the rim in the crook of your hips, place your hands together at the opposite side of the rim & your elbows at each side, then pull up with your hands & push down with your elbows.I've got a similar background to Ducky and I'll add that between each step to take the wheel off the truing stand or whatever your building the wheel on and bed the spokes into the hub and rim. This is done by laying the wheel down so the hub is on the ground and rim is off the ground. It is a good idea to put something soft on the ground so as not to damage the hub. I then start from the valve hole and press on the rim at each lower spoke location and lightly unseat (make them loose) the lower spoke nipples. So for a 32 spoke wheel, I'll press on the rim 16 times on each side. I'll do this a few times during the final stages of building to ensure all of the slack is taken out of the spokes and that all of the components are seated. This step is also important for unwinding lightweight spokes, like Revolutions. If you don't do this throughout the build and particularly the tension phase, after your first ride out you will have to re-tension all of the spokes.
Anyone have an opinion on running a 35mm OD up front and a 30mm OD rear? I run either Conti RaceKing Fr/Rr or NobbyNic @ Fr/RaRa's @ Rr.
bummer they don't do spokes < 250mm. Bike24 works out at about a buck a spoke too I think, plus shipping. Strange too with DT Comps how even with black spokes they ship silver finished nipples...
Cheers for the tips MTB W and Duckie - just built my first pair… all adds up to some nicely put extra info.I've got a similar background to Ducky and I'll add that between each step to take the wheel off the truing stand or whatever your building the wheel on and bed the spokes into the hub and rim. This is done by laying the wheel down so the hub is on the ground and rim is off the ground. It is a good idea to put something soft on the ground so as not to damage the hub. I then start from the valve hole and press on the rim at each lower spoke location and lightly unseat (make them loose) the lower spoke nipples. So for a 32 spoke wheel, I'll press on the rim 16 times on each side. I'll do this a few times during the final stages of building to ensure all of the slack is taken out of the spokes and that all of the components are seated. This step is also important for unwinding lightweight spokes, like Revolutions. If you don't do this throughout the build and particularly the tension phase, after your first ride out you will have to re-tension all of the spokes.
Using existing hubs....What are you guys spending on the LB after delivery etc? with Hope hubs if I may ask?
I have a set of rims, but I'm yet to build them up.Has anyone tried the nextie rims?
40mm wide....
Yes please that would be greatI have a set of rims, but I'm yet to build them up.
I can PM you with my initial impressions if you'd like, let me know.
Yup and makes em that much more prone to rocks. Mine are munched to hell :frusty:Stating the obvious, I guess, but damn these wide rims are wide. Dhurrr, right?
View attachment 303392