user error = over tightening or pranging ?
Yeah a mix of both factors I think. A minor crash, resulting in a perfectly clean brake the entire way around at the clamps, some people my really like to torque up there clamps, and that's the bit that goes.Both.
Always use friction paste on the carbon part to avoid slippage and galvanic corrosion and anti seize on the bolts and torque wrench to assemble to 5nm or manufacturers spec.
After an accident, inspect visually and by softly tapping with an allen key or screwdriver for changes in sound. If still in doubt get it scanned.
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I suspect it doesnt always have to do with over torquing of the lever clamps. The clamp edge probably acts as a fulcrum causing the bar to snap at that point.Yeah a mix of both factors I think. A minor crash, resulting in a perfectly clean brake the entire way around at the clamps, some people my really like to torque up there clamps, and that's the bit that goes.
Hope you are wearing the adult nappy supa glued to your bum for when the brown bike shorts moment happensI went for my first ride with new carbon bars yesterday.
780/38mm NukeSpoof/Chain Gangs...
Felt really good.
I just put supa glue on the bars & then tightened all the clamps until I heard a cracking sound...and then backed 'em off a quarter turn. Them fockers are good'n tight.
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what do you think of the vibrocore bars? I’m replacing some 720 wide carbon bars with Spank bear claw 777 vibrocore.Yeah I initially missed the dampening of the carbon bars but swapped it for the Vibrocore and also dropped tyre by 2psi which helped bridge the gap. Also having better forks now helped yet again.
I-spec B master race. Has never happened with my 10 Shimano brakes or shifters.Rather than start a new thread I'll revive this one. Check this out. This is a Chromag carbon bar that has been fucked by i-Spec II converters. Thought others should know about it if it hasn't been spoken about at length elsewhere. So before we go any further I am OCD about correct torque settings on my bikes, especially so on my carbon bikes/bars etc. I have an expensive digital torque wrench that is my favourite tool (I don't tell my other tools that) and it has been calibrated. What you see below was NOT from over torquing. It's from the i-Spec II converters for both shifter and dropper remote. As you'll see in the pics they have a definite edge that is up against the carbon where as on the brakes there is a very slight chamfer that you can see in the last two pics. I'm guessing the bars torque settings are based on an even torque from all sides on the bar. When you put the i-Spec II converter in it changes the loadings around the bar causing it to dig into the bar even at the correct torque setting. But that's a guess. Yes I know, should've gone alu!!! In fact I have replaced it with an Alu Deity orange matchy matchy bar.
So I-Spec B replaces II? certainly looks cleaner and def won't fuck the bars.I-spec B master race. Has never happened with my 10 Shimano brakes or shifters.
No weird touchy touchy to see here.
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Don't be naive...So I-Spec B replaces II? certainly looks cleaner and def won't fuck the bars.
I'm so confused!!!!Don't be naive...
I-spec II replaced I-spec B. Both of which are now replaced by I-spec EV.
Its essentially back to the future but without the cool cars and hover boards.
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Sounds like a good idea to me mate.It sounds a little OCD but I put a layer of helicopter tape on my bars where any clamp contacts them. I've had too many nicks and gouges over the years from grips, shifter and brake clamps, and even light mounts to trust any clamping system.
I agree, thing is I am always cautious about that and I always make sure that I release it completely before moving it.The photos above looks like the levers have been twisted back and forward over that point a few times.
I've run the same ispec for quite a while now, with carbon bars too, and never had an issue like that. Maybe it's just that specific insert that has a sharp edge??