Carbon handlebars

[teK--]

Yeah I initially missed the dampening of the carbon bars but swapped it for the Vibrocore and also dropped tyre by 2psi which helped bridge the gap. Also having better forks now helped yet again.

 

[Mywifesirrational]

user error = over tightening or pranging ?

Both.

Always use friction paste on the carbon part to avoid slippage and galvanic corrosion and anti seize on the bolts and torque wrench to assemble to 5nm or manufacturers spec.

After an accident, inspect visually and by softly tapping with an allen key or screwdriver for changes in sound. If still in doubt get it scanned.

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Yeah a mix of both factors I think. A minor crash, resulting in a perfectly clean brake the entire way around at the clamps, some people my really like to torque up there clamps, and that's the bit that goes.

 

[teK--]

Yeah a mix of both factors I think. A minor crash, resulting in a perfectly clean brake the entire way around at the clamps, some people my really like to torque up there clamps, and that's the bit that goes.

I suspect it doesnt always have to do with over torquing of the lever clamps. The clamp edge probably acts as a fulcrum causing the bar to snap at that point.

 

[born-again-biker]

I went for my first ride with new carbon bars yesterday.
780/38mm NukeSpoof/Chain Gangs...

Felt really good.

I just put supa glue on the bars & then tightened all the clamps until I heard a cracking sound...and then backed 'em off a quarter turn. Them fockers are good'n tight.

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[Oddjob]

I know you're joking but my sphincter still puckered a bit.

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[ForkinGreat]

I went for my first ride with new carbon bars yesterday.
780/38mm NukeSpoof/Chain Gangs...

Felt really good.

I just put supa glue on the bars & then tightened all the clamps until I heard a cracking sound...and then backed 'em off a quarter turn. Them fockers are good'n tight.

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Hope you are wearing the adult nappy supa glued to your bum for when the brown bike shorts moment happens

 

[ChrisJC]

Yeah I initially missed the dampening of the carbon bars but swapped it for the Vibrocore and also dropped tyre by 2psi which helped bridge the gap. Also having better forks now helped yet again.

what do you think of the vibrocore bars? I’m replacing some 720 wide carbon bars with Spank bear claw 777 vibrocore.

 

[EsPeGe]

Rather than start a new thread I'll revive this one. Check this out. This is a Chromag carbon bar that has been fucked by i-Spec II converters. Thought others should know about it if it hasn't been spoken about at length elsewhere. So before we go any further I am OCD about correct torque settings on my bikes, especially so on my carbon bikes/bars etc. I have an expensive digital torque wrench that is my favourite tool (I don't tell my other tools that) and it has been calibrated. What you see below was NOT from over torquing. It's from the i-Spec II converters for both shifter and dropper remote. As you'll see in the pics they have a definite edge that is up against the carbon where as on the brakes there is a very slight chamfer that you can see in the last two pics. I'm guessing the bars torque settings are based on an even torque from all sides on the bar. When you put the i-Spec II converter in it changes the loadings around the bar causing it to dig into the bar even at the correct torque setting. But that's a guess. Yes I know, should've gone alu!!! In fact I have replaced it with an Alu Deity orange matchy matchy bar.

 

[Oddjob]

Rather than start a new thread I'll revive this one. Check this out. This is a Chromag carbon bar that has been fucked by i-Spec II converters. Thought others should know about it if it hasn't been spoken about at length elsewhere. So before we go any further I am OCD about correct torque settings on my bikes, especially so on my carbon bikes/bars etc. I have an expensive digital torque wrench that is my favourite tool (I don't tell my other tools that) and it has been calibrated. What you see below was NOT from over torquing. It's from the i-Spec II converters for both shifter and dropper remote. As you'll see in the pics they have a definite edge that is up against the carbon where as on the brakes there is a very slight chamfer that you can see in the last two pics. I'm guessing the bars torque settings are based on an even torque from all sides on the bar. When you put the i-Spec II converter in it changes the loadings around the bar causing it to dig into the bar even at the correct torque setting. But that's a guess. Yes I know, should've gone alu!!! In fact I have replaced it with an Alu Deity orange matchy matchy bar.

I-spec B master race. Has never happened with my 10 Shimano brakes or shifters.

No weird touchy touchy to see here.

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[EsPeGe]

I-spec B master race. Has never happened with my 10 Shimano brakes or shifters.

No weird touchy touchy to see here.

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So I-Spec B replaces II? certainly looks cleaner and def won't fuck the bars.

 

[Kerplunk]

Interesting.. Can’t say I have seen it with xt brakes and xtr shifter I spec II after several years now.. TBH i don’t use a torque wrench on my controls, I just tighten them until they don’t slip when used. Only the minimum amount required.. I was told to do this so the controls could spin on the bars rather than snap in a crash?

 

[Oddjob]

So I-Spec B replaces II? certainly looks cleaner and def won't fuck the bars.

Don't be naive...

I-spec II replaced I-spec B. Both of which are now replaced by I-spec EV.

Its essentially back to the future but without the cool cars and hover boards.



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[EsPeGe]

Don't be naive...

I-spec II replaced I-spec B. Both of which are now replaced by I-spec EV.

Its essentially back to the future but without the cool cars and hover boards.



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I'm so confused!!!!

 

[The Duckmeister]

Not that confusing..... First there was simply I-Spec. Then they tweaked it to I-Spec-B; the original version then retro-actively became known as I-Spec-A. There is partial compatibility between A & B variants. I-Spec-II followed B, and is a completely different system. Then they replaced that with I-Spec-EV, which is different again.....

 

[beeb]

Weird one @EsPeGe . I had the same brakes on Renthal Carbon Lite bars, which was my first bike build so 100% I overtightened them without even thinking about it at the time, and no such damage. I did get a scratch in the clear coat when I clipped a tree and the lever rotated a little though (it was from the same adapter/spacer thingo, but only did damage because the brake mount spun around the bars). I ran those bars for quite a while without dramas (despite everyone's fear of Renthal carbon bars). I eventually changed to Spank vibrocores anyway, but that was because they mean I can still get the same "buzz-free" feeling but without the flexiness of carbon.

 

[wkkie]

The photos above looks like the levers have been twisted back and forward over that point a few times.

I've run the same ispec for quite a while now, with carbon bars too, and never had an issue like that. Maybe it's just that specific insert that has a sharp edge??

 

[rangersac]

It sounds a little OCD but I put a layer of helicopter tape on my bars where any clamp contacts them. I've had too many nicks and gouges over the years from grips, shifter and brake clamps, and even light mounts to trust any clamping system.

 

[EsPeGe]

It sounds a little OCD but I put a layer of helicopter tape on my bars where any clamp contacts them. I've had too many nicks and gouges over the years from grips, shifter and brake clamps, and even light mounts to trust any clamping system.

Sounds like a good idea to me mate.

 

[EsPeGe]

The photos above looks like the levers have been twisted back and forward over that point a few times.

I've run the same ispec for quite a while now, with carbon bars too, and never had an issue like that. Maybe it's just that specific insert that has a sharp edge??

I agree, thing is I am always cautious about that and I always make sure that I release it completely before moving it.