Mr Crudley
Glock in your sock
I always said he is one to lead the way courageously.You mean like @hifiandmtb?
I always said he is one to lead the way courageously.You mean like @hifiandmtb?
They must have fat margin of error +/- 400gms I'd guess.I've got those exact scales too, got to bounce the load around and get a median measurement.
I don't have a reverb for it which sounds like I might as well have no dropper anyhow. Most of the trails I'd done haven't felt like I'd need one, Loftus, Mill Creek, part of Knapsack and few others maybe. I will seek counseling to remove my ludditey tendenciesGet an external routed dropper, I prefer not to drill holes in good frames either.
V. Nice!Finally finished my little rebuild project of a modern classic.
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Is that a Blur LTC?Finally finished my little rebuild project of a modern classic.
View attachment 352923
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A cousin to the LTC. It is a TRC.Is that a Blur LTC?
The first time I ever tried 27.5, it was with a set of the 142+ (fuck you Specialized). I used a 2mm spacer on the drive side. Wasn’t ideal, but worked well enough. Fortunately you’re not Gumby like me.I've been continuing to fine tune the Spitty. My Crest wheels use a Specialized 142+ rear hub which in typical Specialized "lets just be different for the hell of it" has the cassette on the drive side spaced 2mm further out, in theory to give a better spoke bracing angle on the drive side. I suppose it gets you 2/3 of the way to Boost without needing a new frame, but it does have the side effect that on certain frames/dropouts the cassette lockring can rub or foul the frame/dropout.
Long and the short of it, on the Spitty it only clears by a bees dick which is not ideal. As a result, today I took the dropout off, stuck it* (literally) in my CNC machining center and machined a 1mm deep recess 32mm in diameter centered around the axle. This won't affect the strength of the dropout and there's still plenty of meat left to provide a positive stop on the endcap when inserting the wheel. (* for little machining jobs like this where the workpiece is hard to clamp but has a suitable flat surface, I will stick it down to the table using blue 3M masking tape and superglue - works a treat).
I'm tight. Was just testing. Sold them a week after testing.You can also just use a normal dt swiss end cap. Will spread things by an extra 2mm but that doesn't in practice matter.
The uppers were almost identical in length. Maybe 2mm difference at most. The Rebas are around 2009-2010, Revelations are 2014 or 2015.What's the lower bushing overlap like? Last time I compared Reba and Rev uppers the Rebas had much shorter stanchions. Original Reba/Revs might be the same though. Any details on which versions?
Pretty easy to re-assemble. Just make sure the red alloy KS cover clips in properly. They can eject pretty easily when using the post. I run a thin zip tie around mine to make sure it doesn't disappear.What the inside of a Lev dropper post looks like. Surprised by the amount of dirt that got past the top seal. Now let's hope I can get it all back together
Great photo... guessing the start of Follow Me.Snuck in a cheeky lap around lysto while the while trialled a new pram and grandparents did the school run.
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Thanks. Yep, top of follow me.Great photo... guessing the start of Follow Me.