What did you do TO / WITH / FOR your bike today!

BT180

Max Pfaff
Satisfying feeling isn't it!? Tensioning and Truing is the best bit though!
If you ever want to have a go yourself, happy to loan my tension gauge and stand for a weekend. I usually just setup my park tool app, fire up a movie, sit there slowly going over it.
Cheers mate! Yeah, was very satisfying. Don't have any of the gear for tensioning and truing, but maybe one day i'll get it and give that a crack too.
 

hellmansam

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Went for a ride, changed up my loop for the sake of variety, should do that more often. Chickened out of the one with the climb from hell though, my legs not feeling strong enough. Washed the bike at the car wash because it had accumulated a bit of mud (keeping the jet right away from seals and bearings) and found a broken spoke in the rear wheel, LH side. Went to LBS and got a temp replacement, they didn't have DB spokes. Played the magnet fishing game to get the old nipple out, and the new one in. I didn't think it was going to go well at first but got it done in about 10 minutes. Need to finish truing it and chuck the tyre back on tonight.

edit: braved the cold shed and got it done. Put OEM Bontrager XR4 back on to try a looser rear end, the DHR is like being on rails. Seated tyre with floor pump easy as.
 
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foxpuppet

Eats Squid
I thought about it but they need it more than me. Apparently it can go up to 7km from base and return on a calm day.
Yeah it physically can.... legally however. That’s pretty poor piloting. Operators are to understand weather conditions and fly safely and in control at all times. Flying beyond line of sight is a big no no here without the right licensing. Anyone with the right licensing wouldn’t be flying in poor conditions.

That said they are fun to fly and the results are pretty cool.

http://instagr.am/p/BSyUZzDBVsj/
From my old hacked account


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

hifiandmtb

Sphincter beanie
Same, wind spends much of its time at higher elevations...

http://instagr.am/p/B09mfdGHTcJ/
Also serviced the Monarch on the Ibis. Still knocks.

Need to spend more time troubleshooting. Still could be something else in the shock as all I did was an air can & damper overhaul. Maybe something in the rebound gubbins or a shim that's flexing more than it should (even though they all looked fine). Or could be referred sound from elsewhere on the frame, need someone to cycle it while I listen with a screwdriver or whatnot.

On the plus side, servicing a Monarch is quite lovely, not too tricky. The only PITA was setting the IFP depth (54.8mm FFS) and holding it there during reassembly.
 
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hellmansam

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Just did the same loop as yesty, and got a bunch of PR’s on the common sections to my usual loop. Still my second fastest time for one of the downcountry bits is on my old Merida XC hardtail. That was GoPro inspired riding at 100% sketchy as though ! A lot more in control on the new bike and more speed to be extracted if I get my fitness up some more. Survived a sweet two wheeled drift through the very last berm, not intended and the bike kept it together beautifully before I had time to think oh no there goes the front, I rolled out of it going ‘wooot FK YEAH !! ‘
 

sane

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Continuing shite weather down here got me motivated to head back to the operating theatre.

Last year I managed to get a cassette bound to the driver and in the process of trying to get it off stripped the splines on the xd sleeve, FW indeed. Dr google offered nothing in the way of remedial treatment so I’ve been putting off practicing my brand of back yard medicine for ages. Got the angle grinder out today and got stuck in.

  1. Removed 10-36 tooth block
  2. Secured 42 tooth in vice and cut a v section into it to get at the sleeve
  3. Gently worked away at the sleeve, avoiding the threaded area until I could get a screwdriver between it and the driveshell
  4. Prise sleeve loose with screwdriver to remove and pop the 42t off
  5. Scored the driveshell slightly so light sand and she’s smooth as
  6. Crack a bevvy and it’s good to go on the next project

171A9F71-5185-4ADB-B84E-544A67A0EE04.pngBBDE4E6F-9025-4DC8-A6FA-678BAD144B78.jpeg6F494103-D216-49BA-8A98-8000F29BD1A1.jpegD2298BBC-6CE2-4E3B-81A6-3E325A7A9A7C.jpeg3963176F-9CA4-4623-8C50-98712BD61A68.jpeg
 

creaky

XMAS Plumper
Continuing shite weather down here got me motivated to head back to the operating theatre.

Last year I managed to get a cassette bound to the driver and in the process of trying to get it off stripped the splines on the xd sleeve, FW indeed. Dr google offered nothing in the way of remedial treatment so I’ve been putting off practicing my brand of back yard medicine for ages. Got the angle grinder out today and got stuck in.

  1. Removed 10-36 tooth block
  2. Secured 42 tooth in vice and cut a v section into it to get at the sleeve
  3. Gently worked away at the sleeve, avoiding the threaded area until I could get a screwdriver between it and the driveshell
  4. Prise sleeve loose with screwdriver to remove and pop the 42t off
  5. Scored the driveshell slightly so light sand and she’s smooth as
  6. Crack a bevvy and it’s good to go on the next project
View attachment 355077View attachment 355078View attachment 355079View attachment 355080View attachment 355081
Worth the effort for the CK driveshell !
 

Scotty675

Cable thief
Essentially it's just what I got used to in that year of riding only the G15.

When I put the MT7's on the G13, the first few rides I had some inconsistent brake line pressure in the rear, which was later resolved through a better bleed, and then the rear pads wore out and had a few little quirks replacing the pads and re-bedding etc. My initial feeling of going back to the MT7's was just noting the different power ramp and bite points, which had me blowing out corners and lacking a bit of control. The G-Spec's showed up on a quick Facebook sale around then, and I just jumped on it for the opportunity to normalise the quiver and address "re-learning" my braking every time I switched bikes.

That being said, after the line pressure and brake pads were resolved, the MT7's are just an amazing brake, and that partially contributed to me being slow on switching them all around. I feel if I had put the MT7's on the G15 when I had initially built it up, I'd be in the position of grabbing another pair of them, or MT5's for the G13 instead.

The Quadiems fit in my criteria of a four pot brake, mineral oil based, but had the advantage of being on sale at the time I bought them (think it was a 1st July Sale in the states, with 50% off) and a silver finish; so were aesthetics driven, and also just a "lets see how they go". They have been completely fit and forget, even with the switching them over between bikes and cutting lines, they just went in and didn't even need bleeding. I burped the lines the typical Shimano way of just jamming the bottle in the lever port and pumping the brakes a bit, but it wasn't required for anything other than peace of mind. They're simple, and they work. They have an amazingly sturdy lever feel; the Magura's don't quite have that sturdyness in the hand, lever flex was noticeable on the longer lever, but they don't feel as "locked" into the lever, there's some slight up and down movement on the pivot point. But the MT7's are a fair whack lighter as well...and the magnetic brake pad installation is inspired. Quadiem's can take Shimano Saint brake pads though, and are just robust and reliable.

I honestly couldn't call it between them, my primary motivation was I got a good deal on them and they're consistent in feel between pairs. Both bleed methods are near identical (and Shimano still holds the crown for being easiest and most straight forward with next to no "tricks" required). I will say the Magura needs at least the HC lever upgrade, if not the HC3, so factor that into the purchase. If you count grams, the Magura's will win out, otherwise flip a coin an enjoy.


HOLY SHIT that ended up being longer than expected. I need to go for a ride but it's blowing a gale here and cold here today, so this was my procrastinating.
Hey Zaf would you be able to post a pic of the trp levers as comparison to hc3 lever. I’m shopping for some new 4 pots and the trp’s are on the list. It’s the small things but I’m not sure on the lever shape and hard to tell from pics I’ve seen.
 
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