pink poodle
気が狂っている男
Is your crank adjustable for boost-ultra? If not it's probably old tech.
Is that code for something?Is your crank adjustable for boost-ultra?
It's coming...you just wait. It will be the bike industries comeback from covid. They'll allow all their stocks to be depleted of old tech and skip a year to make us thirsty. Then bam - unnecessary but significant incompatible design change that means everything old is dead. I'm predicting a reverse taper head tube.Is that code for something?
yep, he’s a spoonIs that code for something?
If you are too much of a tight arse to get a new bike, maybe the hanger is bent?GX 12sp skipping in the smaller cogs on cassette.
Chain 100km old, derailleur 600km old cassette probably 1k km old.
Only seemed to start doing it after my chain/mech ate a spoke. New chain didn't fix (old one visibly damaged so replaced expecting it to fix the issue).
Cant see any other damage. I think adjustment is ok.
Any ideas? Don't say new bike.
1000km can leave a cassette near new, or near munted, depending on conditions, and your previous chain. Inspect it for any wear or burring.GX 12sp skipping in the smaller cogs on cassette.
Chain 100km old, derailleur 600km old cassette probably 1k km old.
Only seemed to start doing it after my chain/mech ate a spoke. New chain didn't fix (old one visibly damaged so replaced expecting it to fix the issue).
Cant see any other damage. I think adjustment is ok.
Any ideas? Don't say new bike.
I would pay $200 for them - that’s what I Paid for my other 2 sets - I don’t want them at the moment by the way but think that’s a fair price - and what else you gunna buy for $200 these days.Sooo what does the brain's trust think a fair price for a set of GXP Sram X1 cranks would be?
175mm, 32T (non-spider) chainring, a few rub and scuff marks but otherwise good condition - solid 7/10 conservatively. I think I've got a suitable (and pretty new) threaded BB I could throw in for them too..
My guess is the derailleur is bent (parallelogram and/or cage), but as poodle says, check the hanger alignment first. My GX mech ate a stick as thick as my thumb early on it's life and it's never been 100% since. I got it fairly straight by taking off the cage and straightening it, then giving the whole mech a few good twists to straighten out the movement - it involved beer and a "if it breaks it needed fixing anyway" attitude. I think the trick was to get it shifting nice on the smaller cogs then work on the bigger cogs - you might even need to bend the hanger a little out of true to compensate for the bent mech.GX 12sp skipping in the smaller cogs on cassette.
Chain 100km old, derailleur 600km old cassette probably 1k km old.
Only seemed to start doing it after my chain/mech ate a spoke. New chain didn't fix (old one visibly damaged so replaced expecting it to fix the issue).
Cant see any other damage. I think adjustment is ok.
Any ideas? Don't say new bike.
Which one is the limiting screw? This is mainly happening in the 3rd smallest cog as thats what I use for the downhills.1000km can leave a cassette near new, or near munted, depending on conditions, and your previous chain. Inspect it for any wear or burring.
Also, maybe you have too much B screw, and it’s not engaging on the chain enough. Also, maybe your limiting screw isn’t set right, and it’s not meshing properly.
Can’t say on SRAM. If it’s the 3rd last, not that. Thought it was only in smallest cog.Which one is the limiting screw? This is mainly happening in the 3rd smallest cog as thats what I use for the downhills.
Eyeballing it everything looks straight..I cant see anything physically wrong with it which is what's got me stumped. Chain is new.My guess is the derailleur is bent (parallelogram and/or cage), but as poodle says, check the hanger alignment first. My GX mech ate a stick as thick as my thumb early on it's life and it's never been 100% since. I got it fairly straight by taking off the cage and straightening it, then giving the whole mech a few good twists to straighten out the movement - it involved beer and a "if it breaks it needed fixing anyway" attitude. I think the trick was to get it shifting nice on the smaller cogs then work on the bigger cogs - you might even need to bend the hanger a little out of true to compensate for the bent mech.
On chains, I measured the stretch on my GX 12-speed vs a new GX and an X01 that's probably done as many k's as the GX. In the photo below, the chains are from left to right: new GX, used GX with about 0.3% stretch, and the used X01 with about 0.1% elongation. Suggest that like GX cassette granny rings, GX chains are also made of cheese. Based on my very limited experience, you'll get about 2 to 3 times the life out of an X01 chain with less wear on the cassette.
So... if my GX chain is at 0.3%, is it too late for me to swap in the new one, run it to 0.3% then alternate the new & old?
View attachment 368046
ORLY? Is every human an identical size?if you look at the science of crank length, most shouldn’t be on 175, optimal hip angle at 170 or less
I just assumed meeting anyone in here would be like looking in the mirror.I once met someone who wasn't my size. Freaked me out.
He likes his undersized cranks as much as he likes his undersized chainrings.ORLY? Is every human an identical size?
And reversed angleset and 8spHe likes his undersized cranks as much as he likes his undersized chainrings.
1000km can leave a cassette near new, or near munted, depending on conditions, and your previous chain. Inspect it for any wear or burring.
Also, maybe you have too much B screw, and it’s not engaging on the chain enough. Also, maybe your limiting screw isn’t set right, and it’s not meshing properly.
Back it off as much as possible, whilst still allowing it to clear the big cog. It’s not likely your issue, but will generally improve shifting.Backed off the b screw one turn and it was much better this morning. Cheers