VTSS350
Likes Bikes and Dirt
Today I striped down my 2010 boxxer world cups. ( I tore my clavical at oxford falls 2 weeks ago so I am really board)
First thing I noticed was that one of the legs was almost completly dry. It should of had 10ccs of 15w oil it.
I pulled the lowers off and the oil seals and wiper seals were dry as a nuns nasty. I have got part numbers now for the oil seals so I can sorce spare parts.
I will be rebuilding them with slick honey and the proper amount of oil in the lowers. Hopefully they will fell smoother.
A few things that I noticed that are different from the old world cups.
The air spring is around 55mm longer and now has a floating negative air piston. There is a top out bumper under the floating piston.
It is best to have a flat 24mm spanner (no more than 3mm thick) to pull the compression cartridge out. The 24mm cap is under the compression adjuster. It is best to turn compression fully on. This moves the blue cap up and allows the spanner in.
The begining and ending stroke rebound nobs are held on by a retaining clip. The clip needs to be prised off to allow the bottom bolt to come out. I think I need a spare one of these. If I am ever rebuilding the forks after a few beers and think it will be very easy to loose.
First thing I noticed was that one of the legs was almost completly dry. It should of had 10ccs of 15w oil it.
I pulled the lowers off and the oil seals and wiper seals were dry as a nuns nasty. I have got part numbers now for the oil seals so I can sorce spare parts.
I will be rebuilding them with slick honey and the proper amount of oil in the lowers. Hopefully they will fell smoother.
A few things that I noticed that are different from the old world cups.
The air spring is around 55mm longer and now has a floating negative air piston. There is a top out bumper under the floating piston.
It is best to have a flat 24mm spanner (no more than 3mm thick) to pull the compression cartridge out. The 24mm cap is under the compression adjuster. It is best to turn compression fully on. This moves the blue cap up and allows the spanner in.
The begining and ending stroke rebound nobs are held on by a retaining clip. The clip needs to be prised off to allow the bottom bolt to come out. I think I need a spare one of these. If I am ever rebuilding the forks after a few beers and think it will be very easy to loose.