DMan
shawly the least hangeriest guy on rotorburn
I got you now. I'm planning on using some hardwood pallets that have 20mm slats on them. Nice and solid.
Building wooden jumps
- Thread starter DMan
- Start date
Flow-Rider
Burner
It's not good when they remove jumps and replace them with doubles on every trail though. Nanny State X 10.
pink poodle
気が狂っている男
I'd be less worried about the height and more focussed on getting the angle right. But 500-1000mm is a good window to aim for. It really depends on how brave your victim is, the height will form a mental barrier for them more than any actual risk.
With flow riders comment about the ply cracking, that's not been my experience. But you could use a slat from a hard wood pallet for the first section of the ramp to reduce the issue.
pink poodle
気が狂っている男
The fear factor is too strong.
DMan
shawly the least hangeriest guy on rotorburn
Using 1m length pallets so the face would be 2m. If I make it 70om high it's an angle of only 20 degrees. Angle increases by 3 degrees for every 100mm of height. So 1m high would be 30 degrees
rowdyflat
chez le médecin
IMHO its best to start not too high or too steep less than 30 degrees is fine.
You dont need a wide wooden take off but a wide dirt landing will give you confidence .
Then move the take off back and higher as you get confidence thats what I did years ago.
If your back yard isnt flat put the takeoff up hill of the landing.
The steeper the take off the steeper the landing needs to be.
The take off should be longer than the wheel base of the bike.
You dont need a wide wooden take off but a wide dirt landing will give you confidence .
Then move the take off back and higher as you get confidence thats what I did years ago.
If your back yard isnt flat put the takeoff up hill of the landing.
The steeper the take off the steeper the landing needs to be.
The take off should be longer than the wheel base of the bike.
Flow-Rider
Burner
You're meant to jump in an arc, so basically where your front wheel hits first your back should hit later on in the same spot on the landing ramp as the bike is moving along. The problem is matching the perfect run in speeds into the booster so it's best to have more speed than needed than not enough on a gap jump or you will case the jump big time. So now if you over shoot the lander and it's at 60 degrees, the same as your booster you will miss the high part of the lander by a long shot and most likely get thrown over the bars, hence you use less of a slope on the lander so you have some room for error and have some control to push down on into the landing ramp rather than rely on luck.
Probably not going to be critical with a short jumps at 30 degrees but once you get into high speed gaps with 45 or more you're going to know about when you over shoot and you have a short ramp.
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pink poodle
気が狂っている男
I'm going to need to see some videos/photos of you putting this theory into action before I commit to trying a big jump.
Flow-Rider
Burner
I already have put a video up on here in the past, it was a small table top with a slightly longer lander.
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pink poodle
気が狂っている男
I remember. It was good. But the crowd want bigger! Get some red bull and set bike for SEND!
Flow-Rider
Burner
I don't get paid like red bull riders nor do I have good insurance for when things go bad but I have done larger jumps not the red bull sort of coarse.
Lots of ways to make a jump but you tend to make it as safe as you can for a beginner, it can all go wrong so easy and fast.
pink poodle
気が狂っている男
Well not with that kind of attitude...
You're right about making it easy and not scary for the rookies. I had one tamp that was essentially just a legless n'shore ladder that could he set to whatever height suited up to about knee height (this also doubled as the ramp that could be set up for stupid things), then there was a few ramps of different height above that.
DMan
shawly the least hangeriest guy on rotorburn
That's why I like the idea of both being movable as overshooting or casing are I reckon my biggest fears when it comes to jumping. Most of the time you never need the speed you think you do to clear a gap, IMO, but it's still a mental game. So low angles and long takeoff and landings. Like was said, I can always modify them as we go along, but it's paramount that it's fun not intimidating. Hence the 2m takeoff and maybe even longer landing. Might go 3 pallets....
All on video of course. Beers after. Fuck drinking Redbull. Fizzy Vics formula cough syrup.
bikesarefun
Likes Bikes and Dirt
All that matters is lip radius. For a beginner jump at daily low speed, make sure it’s at least 2.8m. The lip height will determine release angle.
With the dimensions you’re suggesting, I’d say go with a 3.2m radius, and a lip height of abound 1.2 to 1.5m. That’ll provide a mellow confidence inspiring jump.
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DMan
shawly the least hangeriest guy on rotorburn
They'll be flat though, not curved. The opportunity to use pallets cuts costs to zero.
Flow-Rider
Burner
My Evil knievel days are long gone, broke enough bones on a motor cross bike when I was in my teens. There wouldn't be many pro riders that haven't suffered multiple broken bones or fractures and they have a lot more skill than I and it becomes part of the sport.
DMan
shawly the least hangeriest guy on rotorburn
Haha, mine too! It's amazing what can run through your mind (mortgage payments, not being able to work... blah,blah) in the 2 seconds before hitting something that never came into it when you were young.
Sigh....
pink poodle
気が狂っている男
Like I said, if you are prepared to fuck around you can creat arc/lip/radius by layering onto the pallets.
Flow-Rider
Burner
You learn real fast when you spend about 6 months on crutches and then another few months to build the muscle back up in your leg so that it can hold your body weight up. I had my leg re-broken 3 times because it wouldn't set in the right spot.