silentbutdeadly
has some good things to say
The first and second gen Laser's were the nearest thing to a used Mini back in the day. They were a hoot. Mind you...I thought the Lada Niva I had at that time was also a ripper.
Car Insurance... for a P plater - where do I begin?
- Thread starter Shredden
- Start date
The first and second gen Laser's were the nearest thing to a used Mini back in the day. They were a hoot. Mind you...I thought the Lada Niva I had at that time was also a ripper.
eBay. Not quite a million, but 230,000. Fairly high but I am a bit of a gambler.
Yeah, probably going to go with 3rd party w/fire+theft at this stage.
As far as I can tell the only car that chicks give a fuck about is a Jeep Wrangler. And I'm not gonna put up with that just for 10% more pussy. 10% of the 0 pussy that I get currently is still 0. At this stage the best I can do is get a reliable, clean, relatively modern car that is fun to drive.
The Duckmeister
Has a juicy midrange
Pfft, 230k km for a Subie is barely worn in.
mitchy_
Llama calmer
isn't 230,000km about 23 gearboxes and nearing it's 12 rear diff?
willsy01
Eats Squid
If you have a penchant for repeat 5K RPM clutch dumps and drive like a retard in general, yes.
Art Vanderlay
Hourly daily
I win, first car $500 Datsun 120Y :third:
redbruce
Eats Squid
When my son bought his gen 3 liberty (2.5) @18 he was quoted $1800 so $1900 for the H6 sounds reasonable.
Bluebook value is listed as $6K-$9K. A benefit of having it insured (and in your own name) is you build up history so when you get the next, presumably more expensive car, the insurance will be more reasonable.
By the way most XR6 fords have the standard engine so power to weight is same as base model. Risk is in the assumed driver profile of someone to whom the car appearance (and improved handling) appeals to.
Hope you did your research on the Gen3 H6 issues and costs (and you are correct, the 2.5 certainly isnt spritely).
H6 engine is no where as reliable (and much more costly to repair) than 2.5 (Gen 4 6 cyl had many of those issues addressed). At least you had the sense to get a manual.
Hopefully you have a good 'un Shredden.
The manual gearbox's are actually very reliable (sensibly driven), as are to a lesser extent rear diff (get a bit noisy but work OK - like Commodore diffs).
However you forgot to mention center diffs (so note if gearbox gets noisy and stiff to shift=warning sign and needs looking at ASAP before BIG expense).
Last edited:
The one I bought is a Gen4
I love a bit of DIY on the simpler things and have a bunch of mates who are mechanics so that might mitigate some of the expense.Looks like I am out of luck.
mitchy_
Llama calmer
thanks for your overly serious response to a clearly jestful comment.
i'm actually jealous. i always wanted an old datto... i still do! a pro touring style 280z would be fantastic.
Pastavore
Eats Squid
My sister had one. Eggshell blue with a vinyl roof. 3 speed auto. I could run faster than that thing.
foxpuppet
Eats Squid
I had a '64 Volvo 142 from age 13, got it handed down from my dad when he got a newer Volvo. Plan was to learn to drive on the property and then reregister it when I got my L's.... Had too much rust by that point which was a shame.
But my first car once I had my licence was a 80's model Toyota corona I got for $500 Cheap to run and insure (3rd party) and was bullet proof. Drove it into the ground the sold it for $300 after 2 years of loving ownership.
Next was a sr5 Toyota corolla AWD wagon. Bought for $8k and remember the heart attack of comprehensive insurance (required under loan terms) costing $1750
The good news is it does come down the longer you have it and pretty soon you've got rating 1 for life.
But my first car once I had my licence was a 80's model Toyota corona I got for $500 Cheap to run and insure (3rd party) and was bullet proof. Drove it into the ground the sold it for $300 after 2 years of loving ownership.
Next was a sr5 Toyota corolla AWD wagon. Bought for $8k and remember the heart attack of comprehensive insurance (required under loan terms) costing $1750
The good news is it does come down the longer you have it and pretty soon you've got rating 1 for life.
willsy01
Eats Squid
As an MY00 WRX owner, there's only so many times you can read those sorts of comments and take them in jest :yield:
mitchy_
Llama calmer
nice, MY00 is by far one of the best looking wrx's. please tell me it's not blue with gold wheels.
Pastavore
Eats Squid
Have you ever driven more than 100km without being pulled over?
willsy01
Eats Squid
In 9 years of ownership, i've never been randomly pulled over. Been through maybe 5 RBT setups and had one speeding fine.
Art Vanderlay
Hourly daily
Believe it or not, I got my one and only speeding fine in the Datsun 120Y......Yes, it was downhill.
The Duckmeister
Has a juicy midrange
Must have been a bloody steep hill....!
The Duckmeister
Has a juicy midrange
Going further OT here but so what, it's the second page, so anything goes now, right?
The Subie 2.5l is fine providing you you keep in mind that is isn't in fact a 3.5 & try to drive it like it is one; I have a '98 Outback with the 2.5 & routinely tow over half a tonne with it (Adelaide & back three times a year, & much more just locally on a weekly basis for pretty much half the year) and it does just fine. Sure it's not going to catapult you into the back seat when you put your foot down (especially when the road points upward), but it does what it's asked to well enough. And that's after a few killer wasps have escaped in the 360-odd thou. km on the clock (it had about 245k on it when I got it, I'm nudging 120k in my time). In that time the only major thing it's needed done beyond routine belt changes at 100k intervals is the clutch, which I cooked earlier this year. 350-or so thou on one clutch ain't bad going. Gearbox etc are fine. :smile:
Moral of the story, don't drive like a dickhead and things will work plenty well for a long time. :wink: (And you're less likely to get dead).
The Subie 2.5l is fine providing you you keep in mind that is isn't in fact a 3.5 & try to drive it like it is one; I have a '98 Outback with the 2.5 & routinely tow over half a tonne with it (Adelaide & back three times a year, & much more just locally on a weekly basis for pretty much half the year) and it does just fine. Sure it's not going to catapult you into the back seat when you put your foot down (especially when the road points upward), but it does what it's asked to well enough. And that's after a few killer wasps have escaped in the 360-odd thou. km on the clock (it had about 245k on it when I got it, I'm nudging 120k in my time). In that time the only major thing it's needed done beyond routine belt changes at 100k intervals is the clutch, which I cooked earlier this year. 350-or so thou on one clutch ain't bad going. Gearbox etc are fine. :smile:
Moral of the story, don't drive like a dickhead and things will work plenty well for a long time. :wink: (And you're less likely to get dead).
wombat
Lives in a hole
I had two 120y's. First (and best) was a Kermit green coupe, hatch coupe not the two door sedan, with an A14, Webber, exhaust and driving lights from a Cessna. When that met an untimely end I got a white wagon and transplanted the engine and a celica 5spd box. Eventually rust caught up with it though and it sat around for 12 months until someone gave me $1500 for it so he could put the drive line in his mini.