Chain Life

ozzybmx

taking a shit with my boobs out
BTW, the XX1 11spd chain worked great today, shifting didn't feel much different so I don't know where the 'special' shifting of the Linkglide chain comes from.

So the 800g linkglide cassette is still good.

Will see how long this lasts.
 

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Or belt and gearbox / motor combo...

They don't seem to actually be available yet from what I can see. Got to admit I'd be tempted in a couple of years if they prove reliable enough. Punch out easy laps, but without the boat anchor on the back wheel and all the derailleur driveline maintenance and fuss.
 

ozzybmx

taking a shit with my boobs out
Have you measured your chain ?

One noise out of my drivetrain and I'm looking for issues. Cant believe these chains are getting fucked out so quickly.

The bike has 1800km on it, the GX chain lasted 500ish, the XX1 chain with a 11-42 cassette was good and the chain is now on my Spur, the Linkglide went on at 1000km and the chain is now rooted.

I've fitted an XX1 11spd chain to it now, will take it out for a test later. Cant do much about it anyway, I don't have anymore Linkglide chains yet... wasn't expecting it to be stretched so soon.
Around 350km with 7500vm of climbing on the XX1 11spd and its around 0.25% :confused:

Between the Vernier method and a few manual chain checkers, its doing my head in.

Now I'm starting to question if I should be hot waxing ebike chains. Potentially up to 600w from the motor on a big effort where I can be putting out 500w, normal around 150-250w from me and 150-250w from the bike in EMTB mode.

I'm going to get myself one of those KMC digital chain checkers and be done with this variation bullshit.
 

kten

understands stuff moorey doesn't
Around 350km with 7500vm of climbing on the XX1 11spd and its around 0.25% :confused:

Between the Vernier method and a few manual chain checkers, its doing my head in.

Now I'm starting to question if I should be hot waxing ebike chains. Potentially up to 600w from the motor on a big effort where I can be putting out 500w, normal around 150-250w from me and 150-250w from the bike in EMTB mode.

I'm going to get myself one of those KMC digital chain checkers and be done with this variation bullshit.
Sounds you need some chain lube...
 

fjohn860

Alice in diaperland
Around 350km with 7500vm of climbing on the XX1 11spd and its around 0.25% :confused:

Between the Vernier method and a few manual chain checkers, its doing my head in.

Now I'm starting to question if I should be hot waxing ebike chains. Potentially up to 600w from the motor on a big effort where I can be putting out 500w, normal around 150-250w from me and 150-250w from the bike in EMTB mode.

I'm going to get myself one of those KMC digital chain checkers and be done with this variation bullshit.
All this money spent in the search for answers, and the whole time it's been staying you in the face.

You bought a hungry eBin-chicken and it's sustenance comes from eating chains :p
 

kten

understands stuff moorey doesn't
From years of experience with real motorbikes and real power the only way to maintain a chain is by keeping it clean and lubed properly (and tensioned but that’s not relevant in this context). I have carried that regime over to mtb and it has served me well. After every ride, wipe the chain down and relube. If it’s a big ride I’ll even bring lube with me in a tiny container.

The only thing that I’ve read about chain waxing is from Rulezman who is a massive weight weeny and watt watcher…he tried the waxing thing and long story short felt it was rubbish. The wax seemed the attract heaps more dust and dirt and so it was a harsh, grindy environment for the chain to work in which can only add wear. He went back to his normal method of cleaning and lubing and balance was restored.

Waxing….and clip ins…and visible Lycra...are a road thing. Give yourself an uppercut, get some flats and a bottle of lube up ya. ;)
 

c3024446

Likes Bikes and Dirt
This one i like for variable chain length measurement. Just need to rock it back and forth between links and remove the "slop" - i.e. don't force the level to push the links apart otherwise it will read wrong.

I've calibrated it with other park tool go / no go gauges too. Works a treat!

 

ozzybmx

taking a shit with my boobs out
From years of experience with real motorbikes and real power the only way to maintain a chain is by keeping it clean and lubed properly (and tensioned but that’s not relevant in this context). I have carried that regime over to mtb and it has served me well. After every ride, wipe the chain down and relube. If it’s a big ride I’ll even bring lube with me in a tiny container.

The only thing that I’ve read about chain waxing is from Rulezman who is a massive weight weeny and watt watcher…he tried the waxing thing and long story short felt it was rubbish. The wax seemed the attract heaps more dust and dirt and so it was a harsh, grindy environment for the chain to work in which can only add wear. He went back to his normal method of cleaning and lubing and balance was restored.

Waxing….and clip ins…and visible Lycra...are a road thing. Give yourself an uppercut, get some flats and a bottle of lube up ya. ;)
There is zero dirt on my drivetrain, the hot wax 8s super clean, no dirt anywhere.

Something is going on with my eeb chains and this is a common denominator.
 

Oddjob

Merry fucking Xmas to you assholes
This one i like for variable chain length measurement. Just need to rock it back and forth between links and remove the "slop" - i.e. don't force the level to push the links apart otherwise it will read wrong.

I've calibrated it with other park tool go / no go gauges too. Works a treat!

+1 best chain checker ever.

Honestly YBN/KMC/Wipperman chains and RnR Blue is all you need. Regularly wipe down and reapply and your golden. Don't even need to strip chain of grease when it's new.

Sent from my M2012K11AG using Tapatalk
 

Flow-Rider

Burner
+1 best chain checker ever.

Honestly YBN/KMC/Wipperman chains and RnR Blue is all you need. Regularly wipe down and reapply and your golden. Don't even need to strip chain of grease when it's new.

Sent from my M2012K11AG using Tapatalk
The big bottles of RnR blue are still the best cost-effective and quickest way to lube mountain bike chains, and I've tried just about every golden cow milk lube on the market over the years.
 

Jabubu

let you google that for me
The big bottles of RnR blue are still the best cost-effective and quickest way to lube mountain bike chains, and I've tried just about every golden cow milk lube on the market over the years.
I like RnR Gold and I do try to maintain the same regimen as kten. I might look at the blue one though as the chain can grind a little on wetter days here.
 

Flow-Rider

Burner
I like RnR Gold and I do try to maintain the same regimen as kten. I might look at the blue one though as the chain can grind a little on wetter days here.
The gold is pretty much the same just a tiny bit drier and less dust sticks to it, I found with the blue that it seems to last longer.
 
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Jpez

Down on the left!
Saying one lube is better than another or is all you need is like saying one type of tyre is all you need.
lubes act differently in different environments.
I’ve tried the RnR lubes and wasn’t a fan. Just found they picked up more grime. But that’s just possibly from where I ride. Like @kten I wipe my chain down after every ride and lube it. Simples.
 

ozzybmx

taking a shit with my boobs out
Reload o_O

2 x XT LG500 chains on the way from here, luckily free postage kicks in at $79. My order was $79.98 :p

No hot waxing, straight on the bike with factory gunk and loaded with Slica secret chain lube or Squirt.

 
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