First trail wheelset advice

leitch

leitch

Feelin' a bit rrranty
Ackland said:
Do they exist?
Click to expand...
6 pawls, easily serviceable, readily available spares. Yeah, the "high-end" Novatec hubs are bomb proof and good value.
Ackland said:
I remember the good ol days when you could put Stans Rims, Hope Hubs and DT spokes into your CRC cart for under $400AUD and type "Build my wheels" in the comments and about a week later they'd arrive
Click to expand...
Conversely, these days unfortunately no longer exist.
 
leitch

leitch

Feelin' a bit rrranty
HamboCairns said:
Which is also what come with the Trail Wide wheels.
Click to expand...
Yep, that was my point above. The XLR8 quote you got is for essentially the same spec as the Hunts - Novatec 6 pawl hubs, mid-range spokes and a value-focussed rim. The XLR8 comes through with the brass nipples which is nice, but given the Hunts are cheaper, have the wider rim, and have the crash replacement discount etc they still win out in my eyes.
 
yuley95

yuley95

soft-arse Yuley is on the lifts again
leitch said:
Yep, that was my point above. The XLR8 quote you got is for essentially the same spec as the Hunts - Novatec 6 pawl hubs, mid-range spokes and a value-focussed rim. The XLR8 comes through with the brass nipples which is nice, but given the Hunts are cheaper, have the wider rim, and have the crash replacement discount etc they still win out in my eyes.
Click to expand...
Have to agree with this. I have a feeling you've just circled around to the Hunts.
 
notime

notime

Likes Dirt
Oddjob said:
Dt 240s are light and expensive. The star ratchet system has limited poe and can be fragile with the 54t ratchet. The bazillion endcaps for different driver and axle configurations is a nuisance and spares are expensive. Special tools to remove the drive ring and snap ring are a nuisance too.
Click to expand...
Old wives tale, I'll back the 54t 100%. My xmc1200 wheelset, 240 hub with 54t has done easy over 10,000k's of abuse. The rest is true..
 
S

SF Trailboy

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Hunts won’t be a quick trip back to a local guy to service/tweak if required.

I’d say go the local XLR8 keep a job in Australia support the economy and get the benefit of local support. It really is a small price to pay for a very similar spec’d wheels..
 
blacksp20

blacksp20

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Rorschach said:
That screenshot is the last step before payment so yes, I did. I specced the entire wheelset. Not sure what spokes you were looking at...
Click to expand...
My apologies, thought the CX-Rays were optimal, but have since found they are bladed. Don't know why they don't offer Race as an option as they would be a better option than D-Light for a whole 56g penalty.
 
blacksp20

blacksp20

Likes Bikes and Dirt
HamboCairns said:
True, send me the extra $250 and I'll go with the Spank Oozy specced wheels.
Click to expand...
Considered building your own?
It’s a good skill to learn and wasn’t as difficult as I thought. You could buy the parts as you go/when on sale and get exactly what you want.
Hope hubs from MerlinCycles for $360, Spank 350 from BikeBug for $250, spokes and nips from the UK under $100 and $15 for the wheel building bible.
 
K

komdotkom

Likes Bikes and Dirt
blacksp20 said:
My apologies, thought the CX-Rays were optimal, but have since found they are bladed. Don't know why they don't offer Race as an option as they would be a better option than D-Light for a whole 56g penalty.
Click to expand...
I didn't realise this either, the CX Rays are light but a pain in the ass because of the 'twanging' where the blades cross. I have no idea why so many people rate them for mtb use, I'm sure they are fine on the road with 50mm deep carbon rims.
 
beeb

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
komdotkom said:
I didn't realise this either, the CX Rays are light but a pain in the ass because of the 'twanging' where the blades cross. I have no idea why so many people rate them for mtb use, I'm sure they are fine on the road with 50mm deep carbon rims.
Click to expand...
In what situations do they "twang"? I have long been tempted to try bladed spokes for an MTB wheel build. The last wheel (front) I had built with stiffer spokes, and I love the stiffness under brakes, but there is a reduction in lateral flex and (possibly, might be in my head) edge grip feel. I wondered if bladed spokes could give a best of both worlds feel...
 
K

komdotkom

Likes Bikes and Dirt
The front isn't too bad, it only twangs occasionally but the rear is like having spokey dokeys on a hard climb.
I sent them back to Astro to find a solution and he used some small bits of rubber in between the spokes (tension was fine) but they've all fallen out again. I'm considering using some DR25 heatshrink as a more permanent solution, or just getting proper spokes.
 
Oddjob

Oddjob

Merry fucking Xmas to you assholes
komdotkom said:
The front isn't too bad, it only twangs occasionally but the rear is like having spokey dokeys on a hard climb.
I sent them back to Astro to find a solution and he used some small bits of rubber in between the spokes (tension was fine) but they've all fallen out again. I'm considering using some DR25 heatshrink as a more permanent solution, or just getting proper spokes.
Click to expand...
Why not solder the spokes at cross over points?

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top