Giant Anthem X 29er - See first post for info

krisko

Likes Dirt
Yep 1472 grams with 3cross double butted spokes. Stans Crest rims and american classic hubs.
Weight limit....pfft I'm 88kg's!
 

jossa

Likes Bikes
X29 0 or X29 1?

Just a couple of questions that I hope any X29er owner/expert can help me with.
X29 0 or X29 1 and put the $500 towards a much better wheel set?
Is the Giant Tracker rear hub any good, considering last year's version was a Star Ratchet type?
 

extreme_dog

Likes Bikes
Just a couple of questions that I hope any X29er owner/expert can help me with.
X29 0 or X29 1 and put the $500 towards a much better wheel set?
Is the Giant Tracker rear hub any good, considering last year's version was a Star Ratchet type?
No expert but I've owned both the X29 1 2011 and the X0 29 2012, the 2012 hub seems okay but I miss the sound of the DT Swiss Hub. Anyway upgrade if you will I can't hurt but the stock wheelset are okay for a weekend warrior like me. Only time/kms will tell.
 

silentbutdeadly

has some good things to say
Just a couple of questions that I hope any X29er owner/expert can help me with.
X29 0 or X29 1 and put the $500 towards a much better wheel set?
Is the Giant Tracker rear hub any good, considering last year's version was a Star Ratchet type?
The hubs aren't the problem. It's those...poxy...not really poxy...PXC-2 rims that are the issue. The rims are actually fine enough. However, they are a chore to convert to tubeless and can be a chore to keep them that way...in my experience. If only Giant had invested a just a little more in the rims...<sigh>

Now I have a perfectly good DT Swiss hub-ed wheel hanging on the wall and it tears me up a little to look at it...lifeless. Might have to buy a 29er HT frame for it just to make me feel better...
 

skinya

Likes Dirt
I have converted 3 pairs of these rims no probs.Original equipment maxxis tires can some times pose problems,they dont do to well tubeless you may have to get after market maxxis or another brand.these are not a bad wheelset for the price point.:friendly_wink:
 

silentbutdeadly

has some good things to say
I have converted 3 pairs of these rims no probs.Original equipment maxxis tires can some times pose problems,they dont do to well tubeless you may have to get after market maxxis or another brand.these are not a bad wheelset for the price point.:friendly_wink:
True. Just frustrating...I'd have been just as happy to pay Giant an extra $200 if they had only fitted tubeless compatible rims (like on the Anthem 26 at the same price point) from the get to.

The Geax tyres with the TNT casing do lock in OK to the rims though...so perhaps tubeless persistence with these rimes won't be futile.
 

Jubas

Likes Dirt
I also had no issues converting the rims to tubeless. It was actually the first tubeless conversion that i'd attempted. The key was making sure others had tried the same combination of rim strip, latex, and tyres first. I did a fairly thorough series of pictures for it as well, but for the life of me can't find the relevant thread.
 

jossa

Likes Bikes
Thanks!

Any opinions/thoughts on the different suspension components, ie Fox vs. RS. This will be the deciding factor!!
 

silentbutdeadly

has some good things to say
I think I'd spend the extra $500 to get those RS shocks....I'm just glad it ain't me making the decision.

Mind you....there appears to be a few 2011 Anthem's still around for around $2,500...that's $700 cheaper than the 2012 Anthem X0 for what is pretty much the same standard of spec. If it is your size...
 

Geriatrix

Cannon Fodder
I also converted the standard rims to tubeless (thanks for the extremely helpful post Jubas) and they aired up without a problem. I'm running Renegade Controls and after 2 weeks all good, no air loss. Got my first puncture this morning - sealed in less than 5 seconds. Now that's what I'm talking about!
 

whichway

Squid
I also had no issues converting the rims to tubeless. It was actually the first tubeless conversion that i'd attempted. The key was making sure others had tried the same combination of rim strip, latex, and tyres first. I did a fairly thorough series of pictures for it as well, but for the life of me can't find the relevant thread.
http://www.rotorburn.com/forums/showthread.php?212700-converting-giant-p-xc-2-29er-wheels/page3&highlight=pxc2

Are the Bontrager rim strips really about $20.00 in Australia. Offshore they are about $6.00. I can't find them available on line.
 

Jubas

Likes Dirt
http://www.rotorburn.com/forums/showthread.php?212700-converting-giant-p-xc-2-29er-wheels/page3&highlight=pxc2

Are the Bontrager rim strips really about $20.00 in Australia. Offshore they are about $6.00. I can't find them available on line.
Ah thanks - not sure how i couldn't find it before hand.

I paid $15 at Clarence St Cyclery in Sydney. I suspect that it tends to be slightly more expensive than other bike shops (prime CBD location), but doubt it would have much difference on a part like the rim strip.Still, $15 vs $6 isn't much when i've dropped $3k+ on a bike. And, for the difference it made versus running tubes, it was more than worth it.

In other news, i've developed a rather annoying squeaking noise. I suspect that it's either the bottom bracket or the seatpost. For the latter, would a simple extraction, clean, and replacement of the seatpost rule it out as the culprit?
 

Bodin

GMBC
In other news, i've developed a rather annoying squeaking noise. I suspect that it's either the bottom bracket or the seatpost. For the latter, would a simple extraction, clean, and replacement of the seatpost rule it out as the culprit?
It could also be the seatpost head, where the seat rails are clamped. Could even be the seat itself. Worst case scenario is that the seat tube may be starting to deform a bit. This happens over time with thin alloy. All that rocking back and forward makes the tube slightly less than circular and you end up with a less than perfect interface between the tube and the seatpost. A beefier collar can help if this is the case.

But, yes, strip and clean all the suspect areas (clamp, post & bottom bracket) and if squeak persists, see your trusted mechanic.
 

mtb101

Likes Bikes and Dirt
It could also be the seatpost head, where the seat rails are clamped. Could even be the seat itself. Worst case scenario is that the seat tube may be starting to deform a bit. This happens over time with thin alloy. All that rocking back and forward makes the tube slightly less than circular and you end up with a less than perfect interface between the tube and the seatpost. A beefier collar can help if this is the case.

But, yes, strip and clean all the suspect areas (clamp, post & bottom bracket) and if squeak persists, see your trusted mechanic.
I just fixed a similar budgie like squeak, turned out to be the seat post, was dry and rubbing on inside of frame, cleaned up area, greased post, all good.
 

Jubas

Likes Dirt
I just fixed a similar budgie like squeak, turned out to be the seat post, was dry and rubbing on inside of frame, cleaned up area, greased post, all good.
Is greasing a post common practice? It seems somewhat counter-intuitive to me, but i guess i can see the reasons behind it..
 

mtb101

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Is greasing a post common practice? It seems somewhat counter-intuitive to me, but i guess i can see the reasons behind it..
well have you ever tried to get a seat post out that's seized? With carbon there's a carbon grease, but Alu etc you grease the post (well inside of frame), the clamp does the work of holding it in. One reason is somehow mud has found its way into that area and it dried it out causing the noise.

Here's what Sheldon Brown says:
 
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Jubas

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well have you ever tried to get a seat post out that's seized? With carbon there's a carbon grease, but Alu etc you grease the post (well inside of frame), the clamp does the work of holding it in. One reason is somehow mud has found its way into that area and it dried it out causing the noise.

Here's what Sheldon Brown says:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html
Righto - thanks for the heads up. I'd have totally missed such a step! Looks like i'll be working on the bike as opposed to riding it this weekend. Seriously, Sydney weather has just been ridiculous: during the week = sun, weekend = rain. Going to struggle to be anywhere near race-ready for the fling!
 

extreme_dog

Likes Bikes
Another -1 for the stock wheels. Mate buckled his rear wheel going over a small jump, tyre blew out and the wheel is not that round anymore. I'll be looking to get rid of mine now too. He has the 2012 X1 and I've got the X0
 

frensham

Likes Dirt
In other news, i've developed a rather annoying squeaking noise. I suspect that it's either the bottom bracket or the seatpost. For the latter, would a simple extraction, clean, and replacement of the seatpost rule it out as the culprit?
Is it a squeak or a click? A dry jockey wheel on your rear derailleur is a likely cause if it is a squeak. Dry bearings in your pedals can cause a squeak too. An old BB with dried out bearings will also squeak. I would spray some lube into the bearing/pivot area of the jockey wheels (both sides) as a first step.
 

Jubas

Likes Dirt
Is it a squeak or a click? A dry jockey wheel on your rear derailleur is a likely cause if it is a squeak. Dry bearings in your pedals can cause a squeak too. An old BB with dried out bearings will also squeak. I would spray some lube into the bearing/pivot area of the jockey wheels (both sides) as a first step.
It's definitely a squeak. I stripped, cleaned, and regreased the seatpost on saturday before riding for a few hours on sunday, but alas it was still around. Next stop will be BB i think! Then i'll give the pedals/jockey wheels a quick going over..
 
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