Giant Anthem X 29er - See first post for info

silentbutdeadly

silentbutdeadly

has some good things to say
extreme_dog said:
I've noticed my headset has worked itself loose. Now I can't seem to get it seated properly. It's either too tight (turning the bars) or too loose and the headset wobbles???? I've also got play in the linkage behind the bottom bracket, no idea how to fix that. Might be time to hit the LBS. Oh yeah, the brakes are noisy as f%&k. I shouldv'e swapped em for some XT's when shimano had that offer.

I got the 2012 X0
Click to expand...
Headset is set with the top cap. Once that's sorted tighten your stem up. A suitable torque wrench is king, queen, jack and knave for this job.

Don't leave the linkage. Remove the crankset. Tighten the linkage up neat - torques are identified a page or two back in this thread - it does come loose early on in ownership. Loctite will be your friend.
 
silentbutdeadly

silentbutdeadly

has some good things to say
In other news....I got my Maestro bearing puller kit from Moruya Bicycles. Set me back $120 plus postage and I had to wait three months for it but this'll truly make the bike for as long as I can string it out. Anyone with a Maestro rear end that is interested in making the best of their bike should really have one of these...new bearing set every twelve months or so will be easy from here on in.
 
E

extreme_dog

Likes Bikes
silentbutdeadly said:
Headset is set with the top cap. Once that's sorted tighten your stem up. A suitable torque wrench is king, queen, jack and knave for this job.

Don't leave the linkage. Remove the crankset. Tighten the linkage up neat - torques are identified a page or two back in this thread - it does come loose early on in ownership. Loctite will be your friend.
Click to expand...
That's the problem, I tighten to where it should be, but it's still got play, tighten a touch more, no play but it doesn't turn 'freely', I think I may have been riding it with a loose headset and put it down to play in the hub (stupid school boy mistake).

Should the torque settings be the same for the cap as for the stem? I was more going by feel?

Thanks for the heads up on the linkage, it sounds horrible.
 
E

extreme_dog

Likes Bikes
silentbutdeadly said:
In other news....I got my Maestro bearing puller kit from Moruya Bicycles. Set me back $120 plus postage and I had to wait three months for it but this'll truly make the bike for as long as I can string it out. Anyone with a Maestro rear end that is interested in making the best of their bike should really have one of these...new bearing set every twelve months or so will be easy from here on in.
Click to expand...
May have to get one myself, plan to have this bike for a while. So says the wife anyway.......
 
pharmaboy

pharmaboy

Eats Squid
extreme_dog said:
Cheers for that. Sounds like a go. What'd you use to clean the rotors? Isocol? An 'expert' at an LBS said to take some sand paper to them?
Click to expand...
I used brake clean - $10 from auto pro. yes you can sand paper the if they have already had a fair bit of use - has to be o n a block, and very flat.
 
O

[OutCast]

Likes Bikes
Is it worth swapping out the stock wheels for a beginner rider? I like "nice" stuff ... I also like to personalise. The reason I swapped out my plastic cable C-slamps for MOWA alloy blue.

However ... $10 for bling is not the same as $700 for Stans arch with 3.30 hubs...

As with everything i've found so far ... $1 / g of savings :) $700 is a fair chunk of cash.
 
mtb101

mtb101

Likes Bikes and Dirt
[OutCast];2557527 said:
Is it worth swapping out the stock wheels for a beginner rider? I like "nice" stuff ... I also like to personalise. The reason I swapped out my plastic cable C-slamps for MOWA alloy blue.

However ... $10 for bling is not the same as $700 for Stans arch with 3.30 hubs...

As with everything i've found so far ... $1 / g of savings :) $700 is a fair chunk of cash.
Click to expand...
imo don't waste your money, the wheels are bomb proof, as a beginner rider you are better off having something toughish on there for your rides, the bike can be raced as is, sure you can drop on lighter wheels later on. you really don't need to get caught up in all the marketing of fast bits, just get out and ride the thing.
 
D

dbm081

Likes Bikes
Has anyone pulled the trigger and got themselves one of the carbon anthem 29ers? Keen to hear some feedback if so.
 
O

[OutCast]

Likes Bikes
I decide mtb101 was right .... however I got to install the extra bits I picked up today... hmm I should post a pic.

Thompson Elite Post
Charge Spoon Ti Seat
Easton XC70 Monkeylite Bars
Ergon GX3 Grips

Using Finishline Carbon Grip REALLY reduces the torque required to tighten everything on the bars. 3.6 Nm on bar ends and stem - cannot get them to shift :)

Now ... time to training in the wet for the 31km MTBO event in 5 weeks :)
 
L

Lamb

Cannon Fodder
Couldn't see it making a trance any better. It seems that the 26er trance is just too amazing and to swap it to a 29er I thought would take some of the fun out of this bike. A standed 26er trance loves to be hucked off rocks and pumped through corners with out any fear that they wheels may buckle. For me the 29er trance seems good but it's just not for me.
 
C

chops_rx2

Squid
Just looking for a bit of info for those that have upgraded brakes before, looking at upgrading to a set of XT brakes for my 2012 Anthem X1 29er, and just wanted to know the following:

Can i run the avid 180mm front and 160mm rear rotors still or do i have to upgrade these to ice tech rotors at the same time?

Do i need to purchase any different mounting brackets to mount either the front or rear brakes, or will the current ones for the avid 5's work?

And finally, i am assuming its a relatively easy thing to do, any issues i should be wary of?

Cheers

Rob
 
ctguru

ctguru

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Here are the specs for the 2013 Anthem X 29er 0

Should be available this week

Frame
ALUXX SL FluidFormed™ Aluminium, Maestro 4" Suspension

Fork
RockShox SID 29 RL, w/15 QR axle OD2, 4'/100MM

Shock
RockShox Monarch RT

Handlebar
Giant Contact TR Alloy 725mm x 19mm rise 31.8

Stem
Giant Contact OD2 Alloy, 4 bolt, 8 degree

Seatpost
Giant Contact, 30.9

Saddle
Fi'zi:k Tundra 2 w /MG Rails

Pedals
N/A

Shifters
SRAM X9 trigger shifters, 20sp

Front Derailleur
SRAM X9 10sp

Rear Derailleur
SRAM X0 10sp

Brakes
Avid Elixir 9 hydrualic, 6 bolt [F] 170mm [R] 160mm rotors

Brake Levers
Avid Elixir 9

Cassette
SRAM PG-1070 11x36T, 10sp

Chain
KMC X-10

Crankset
SRAM XO, 26/39

Bottom BRacket
SRAM GXP Press Fit

Rims
MY13 Giant P-XCR 1 29 Wheelsystem 28H Disc

Hubs

Spokes

Tyres
Schwalbe Racing Ralph, 29x2.25 EVO Folding TL Ready
 
S

stu-2

Likes Dirt
2011 rear wheel

Hi all i'm after a standard rear wheel for my 2011 anthem, cant seem to find a second hand one on ebay, would anybody have one laying around ?

thanks Stuart.
 
C

ClintC

Likes Dirt
Sorry if this has been asked before but as I am a bit of a bike newbie could somebody help me in letting me know what rear axle is on a 2013 Anthem X 0?
After a moron move on my behalf I managed to taco the front rim and need to get a new wheel-set quite quickly and don't have the luxury of time to get the front rebuilt on the factory hub.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
I

imago

Likes Bikes
Considering a 2013 Anthem for 8hr+ XC races. Weekend riding however is on tighter technical trails, so for now I've stuck to my 26" HT.

Can anybody comment on how they've found the handling on one of these? The X 29er 0 is what I'm leaning toward, but I'm a noob in corners on the 26" as it is. The only negative I've read about the 29er is the long chainstay length.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top