Knuckles
Lives under a bridge
When you go 2x, leave the 3x shifter on, and use the 3rd position for the dropper activation......
#knuckleswasadrunkenchunt
KS Lev Restore
- Thread starter Wicksie
- Start date
#knuckleswasadrunkenchunt
Nerf Herder
Wheel size expert
i recommend store the post 'extended' in the normal riding position (ie saddle up top) if it's going to be idle for extended periods of time. If there is mud and moisture trapped internally, any corrosion will be limited to below the DU bush and will reduce any effect to performance. You also won't see it:tape2:
the other benefit is that oil tends to migrate away from the internal valves within the cart over time. So if your post is idle for days at a time ... Having it extended means you can quickly kickstart oil flow by dropping the post with a couple slow cycles up and down ... Or down and up in the case.
As an aside and sorry for waffling.
Al#2 (there are now 3 Al's @Pushie ... Meh) suggested storing the bike vertically, so that the saddle is directed towards the floor slightly. The theory is any gases aerating the oil will percolate up and out of the main chamber so as not to get trapped and cause the dreaded squishy post.
no science behind this, but makes sense.
i suggest search for Linadret Remount, also now branded Wolftooth
http://pushie.com.au/lindarets-remount-22
ive just mounted one, coupled with gripshifts and the stock KS remote. It's pretty awesome. It also works with shifter pods. there is a picture if you google Linadret are one, but for some reason I can't upload the pic or the link. Soz
the paddle position is shorter then that of a southpaw or other shifter style remotes ... But definitely closer to a shifter like position whilst still being able to run a shifter on the left or remote on the right + rear shifter.
we still have these and direct mount versions in stock.
hifiandmtb
Sphincter beanie
Lindarets have some good stuff - how neat is this!
Is this for running 2x/3x?
Nerf Herder
Wheel size expert
Not specifically for 2x and 3x ... ie, he didn't design it to solve that problem of running a shifter like remote whilst also running gear shifters on the same side ... but it was pretty quickly identified as working for this. So if you are running 2x and 3x setups, well worth the $39.95
We have the ispec AB and IS II and SRAM MM in stock as well. hit your fav LBS.
cokeonspecialtwodollars
Fartes of Portingale
Impeccable service as always Nerf, I rebuilt post number one last night with the PTFE segments and am pleased to report zero rotational play. Post is now as solid as it was out of the box three years ago.
So this KS dropper got 'lost in the post' apparently.
I'm still looking for a budget post and am wondering if a giant for $80 that needs a service would be worth it?
Apparently the issue is sag as it still goes up and down, but doesn't stay in the right spot.
Any idea how much services cost, generally and if this sounds like the sort of thing a service can fix?
Cheers guys.
I'm still looking for a budget post and am wondering if a giant for $80 that needs a service would be worth it?
Apparently the issue is sag as it still goes up and down, but doesn't stay in the right spot.
Any idea how much services cost, generally and if this sounds like the sort of thing a service can fix?
Cheers guys.
beejay
Likes Dirt
Pretty sure the issue with the "not staying in the right spot" is the air canister inside is stuffed. Not sure on the price of a new canister so check with your local Giant store (if you have one?), but it is an easy fix if you can.
Although I will add that even at $80 dollars I think its overpriced for an old model Giant dropper post that doesn't work as it should.
link1896
Mr Greenfield
^^^^^this.
The giant cartridge is 100% sealed, no option but to replace.
The cartridge has the ends crimped, instead of threading the ends in. As disposable as a bubble jet printer.
Ok, some advice on how to get the cartridge out.
Need to replace my link cable, think i need to remove cartridge to do this
Can get lower cap off, and seal out, but can't for the life of me get the release mechanism off the inner shaft so i can pull the cartridge out.
I've tried rubber gloves, rubber clamps, and a strap wrench (and multigrips, don't read that nerf).
I have not released the pressure, nor seen how to do that (edit: its a 27.2 Lev, pre them being branded lev272)
Need to replace my link cable, think i need to remove cartridge to do this
Can get lower cap off, and seal out, but can't for the life of me get the release mechanism off the inner shaft so i can pull the cartridge out.
I've tried rubber gloves, rubber clamps, and a strap wrench (and multigrips, don't read that nerf).
I have not released the pressure, nor seen how to do that (edit: its a 27.2 Lev, pre them being branded lev272)
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Don't release the pressure! You will end up in all sorts. On my 27.2 (not sure of age or internals being different) I put duct tape on the shaft, a few wraps, then when wearing a rubber disposable gloves, started to undo the bottom mechanism. Took ages and the glove got wrapped around the shaft but it eventually let go. A bit of heat may help too to break the loctite. Be gentle or you will destroy the cartridge and they're a $170 part
That reads dirty...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Degrease the shaft with isopropyl alcohol. Put a glove on (from my experience the generic yellow latex supermarket ones work best, they are soft and sticky), heat up the actuator assembly with a heat gun to soften the loctite (heat it up good) then quickly clamp it in something stationary (vice works best), and turn the shaft with the gloved hand. You will burn your hand a little bit in the process, but it worked for me. I had to position my hand so I could twist at least 3/4 of a turn in one go. Half way through that motion the shaft will fall into the crease of your hand at the base of your fingers, the skin of your palm and the glove will start wrapping around the shaft for a really good grip. It hurts like a mofo but it works... You won't get a better grip with a strap wrench.
Notice I said to clamp it in something "stationary". This is important. Don't try to do undo it with one hand while holding the actuator with the spanner in the other hand. If you don't have a vice then at least get someone else to hold the spanner, so you can concentrate completely on grabbing and turning that shaft as hard as you can...
Clean out that white factory crap from the threads with a needle, then use no more than 1-2 drops of the 222 loctite on reassembly to make next service easier. Clamp the actuator again and just hand tighten the shaft with the glove on, then wait for 24hrs for the loctite to bond.
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link1896
Mr Greenfield
Does the base of the cartridge look like this? If so yes you can if you have a source of 200psi air and a basketball inflation needle.
