Light Bicycle Carbon Rims/Wheels (Review Included on 1st Post))

[houli77]

nor do offer brass nipples, only alloy (read some serious corrosion issues with carbon rims) so thats another turn off.

If you read further into the carbon corrosion with alloy thing it seems it's a bit of a storm in a teacup as far as bikes go..

Aerospace industry is worried for obvious reasons, but if my nipples corrode in five years time (which I doubt) ill either be due to replace my wheels anyway or just re-lace it. No biggie..

Those sapim spokes look awesome but f@&$ they're expensive! Dt comps/alloy nips for my budget..

 

[andy]

Don't know if it was nipple corrosion or not, but the only problem I had with my LB wheels was two alloy nipples let go. I have since had the rims re-laced to Hope hubs and DT spokes.

 

[ChopSticks]

stop posting for 5 minutes and do it yourself.... try prowheelbuilder.com

I'm not asking for a link mate.... what im asking for is actual help from people.

Im well aware of those sites... what I want is help !

how about you tell me what do I do when I get odd spoke lengths (ie 252.4mm)... do I round up or down? how much tolerance do I have per spoke? per nipple?
despite having to check a disclaimer that they hold no responsibility for incorrect calculations (which is fucking reassuring)....how accurate are those sites?

do different spoke manufactures have different way of measuring spoke lengths? ERD's?
is ERD ALWAYS from nipple head to opposite nipple head?


as I mentioned before, I have zero building experience and would appreciate advice from those who genuinely want/can to help.... not just a link

 

[Yet1]

LB Carbon

Ive been running Light-Bicycle wheels on my roadie for about 9 months. Have nothing but positives to say about them. They were easy to deal with, shipping times were exactly as they indicated, actual weights were about 5g of claimed weights, came very well packed etc. They were dead true and perfectly round. Couldn't find any flaws/cracks etc on them. I have put about 3000km on them since I have had them and after this time gained a fair bit more confidence in them (read - not scared to bunny hop/go off kerbs/ etc) and they haven't missed a beat, still perfectly true. I am saving my pennies for some for my xc bike next... then maybe for the Yeti.

 

[eastie]

Theres some good references on wheel bulding in various threads, thats where i picked it up. Just sayin instead of askingfor all the answers do some looking, have an informed stab and see what others recon. Last time i looked i think the flanges on hope vs hope pro evo varried, so you need to be really specific on components. Round up generally works.

 

[gregp]

I'm not asking for a link mate.... what im asking for is actual help from people.

Im well aware of those sites... what I want is help !

how about you tell me what do I do when I get odd spoke lengths (ie 252.4mm)... do I round up or down? how much tolerance do I have per spoke? per nipple?
despite having to check a disclaimer that they hold no responsibility for incorrect calculations (which is fucking reassuring)....how accurate are those sites?

do different spoke manufactures have different way of measuring spoke lengths? ERD's?
is ERD ALWAYS from nipple head to opposite nipple head?


as I mentioned before, I have zero building experience and would appreciate advice from those who genuinely want/can to help.... not just a link

Let me try to help you out.

First of all, a forum like this is not the best place to learn how to build wheels.

Secondly, if you're planning to take your wheels to a pro "to finish the job" then you're wasting time trying to figure out how to lace it yourself. Let the pro do the lot. It's likely to cost you about the same either way. That way it's the builder's problem to select the right spoke lengths and deal with any issues with measurements, etc, and you're saving yourself a lot of frustration.

If you were on a mission to learn how to build wheels from start to end and do everything yourself, I'd give you more specific answers, otherwise it's a waste of time. If you ever learn how to build wheels, you will understand why. Frankly, to say that you will lace the wheels, then take them to a pro "to FINISH the job" is an insult to wheel builders. Any dumb ass can lace up a wheel. Real building BEGINS AFTER lacing is done.

 

[ChopSticks]

Theres some good references on wheel bulding in various threads, thats where i picked it up. Just sayin instead of askingfor all the answers do some looking, have an informed stab and see what others recon. Last time i looked i think the flanges on hope vs hope pro evo varried, so you need to be really specific on components. Round up generally works.

I assure you that I have done a fair bit of reading/researching..... and it seems the more I read the more questions I have.

I'm glad you finally contributed to this thread by suggesting different Hope hubs have different dimensions. Can you confirm if spokes should be rounded UP to the nearest millimetre? or are you just having an informed stab? I dont fancy taking a stab on $200+ in spokes...

Let me try to help you out.

First of all, a forum like this is not the best place to learn how to build wheels.

Secondly, if you're planning to take your wheels to a pro "to finish the job" then you're wasting time trying to figure out how to lace it yourself. Let the pro do the lot. It's likely to cost you about the same either way. That way it's the builder's problem to select the right spoke lengths and deal with any issues with measurements, etc, and you're saving yourself a lot of frustration.

If you were on a mission to learn how to build wheels from start to end and do everything yourself, I'd give you more specific answers, otherwise it's a waste of time. If you ever learn how to build wheels, you will understand why. Frankly, to say that you will lace the wheels, then take them to a pro "to FINISH the job" is an insult to wheel builders. Any dumb ass can lace up a wheel. Real building BEGINS AFTER lacing is done.

thanks Greg,

I agree... RB isnt the best for wheel building advice, and have done a fair bit of reading elsewhere.
But theres no harm asking a forum I'm use to being on (instead of signing up to a new forum, completing 5-10 arbitrary posts before I can start my own thread/upload pictures?)

I highly doubt the cost of the wheelbuilder (spokes + nipples + labour) will be the same as me doing it myself and getting him to tension/dish/true it.
In the first sentence of this thread I stated budget... hence I would like to keep costs to a minimum if possible.

I plan to get 2x full UST carbon rims from them (LB) and painstakingly feed the nipples in myself (and not worry with rim tape)...something I doubt the wheel builder will bothered to do that without charging me my left testicle for.

Its a bold statement calling people who lace up wheels and take them to their LBS to check a dumb-ass.....
how many home builders have a tension meter? have a wheel dish/alighnment tool? have a truing stand? dial gauge? have the correct nipple wrenches/spoke key?
If thats the case then I know ALOT of dumbasses on this site/community.

I only have one bike.. and one wheelset.
I dont plan on having anymore sets of wheels anytime soon... Therefore, I dont see the need to invest in all those tools to maintain just one set of wheels... when I can get a professional to 'build' / finish my wheels and be done with it for a few years.


having said that.... does anyone still use nipple washers?

 

[Minlak]

Bit tired tonight and maybe I am being slow so rims are what $350, spokes are $200 plus?, I assume you need hubs? Then some one to "finish" them off? So what is the budget for the "budget" wheels or did I miss something in the thread?

 

[ChopSticks]

Bit tired tonight and maybe I am being slow so rims are what $350, spokes are $200 plus?, I assume you need hubs? Then some one to "finish" them off? So what is the budget for the "budget" wheels or did I miss something in the thread?

2x carbon rims delivered should be approx -$400AUD~
Sapim CXrays would be -$200+AUD~
72x nipples : $25~
hubs are undecided... can use existing hope hubs...but would like the new 40T Hopes. ($225R + $80F)= -$300+
to 'finish' = $100-150? more?

works out to be a little over 1K

abit more expensive than the stock hope/carbon rim combo from LB ($950~AUD)...but I get the best spokes available and still get the piece of mind of a proper wheel builder... which I would've gone to later anyway if I had purchased a complete wheelset to get it trued/dished after it bedded in.

 

[Minlak]

So I have been looking into wheels a lot this guy http://www.twebikewheels.com.au/mtb_wheels.html has a good rep and shows carbon wheels on his site for $1199 ready to go and he says 10 day normal turn around. I have been thinking of these a fair bit. Maybe lesser quality hub on them keeps price down? Says he uses DT Swiss spokes. Just talking here I have no allegiance anywhere. Just know my local shop did a poor job on a recent rebuild and took 4 weeks.

 

[tasty.dirt74]

So I have been looking into wheels a lot this guy http://www.twebikewheels.com.au/mtb_wheels.html has a good rep

I had a set of 26 inch wheels custom built by TWE, and fitted them on the bike the day before the DW100, raced(rode slowly LOL), bombed the sandstone descents and the wheels were fine, no pinging of spokes, perfectly true after...

He certainly knows his stuff..and loves to talk about wheels !!

I recommend him to build wheels for you..You do need to be honest and tell him your abilities and desired application, and he will build you a set of wheels specifically for what you ask..

 

[ChopSticks]

So I have been looking into wheels a lot this guy http://www.twebikewheels.com.au/mtb_wheels.html has a good rep and shows carbon wheels on his site for $1199 ready to go and he says 10 day normal turn around. I have been thinking of these a fair bit. Maybe lesser quality hub on them keeps price down? Says he uses DT Swiss spokes. Just talking here I have no allegiance anywhere. Just know my local shop did a poor job on a recent rebuild and took 4 weeks.

Greg is the 'pro' I've been mentioning.... I know he is the best in the Sydney... if not all of Aus. Hence would trust only him to finish these carbon wheels.

Last time I checked... his carbon wheels start FROM $1500? Hence it knocked my locally sourced wheels out of the picture.

I have tried to research as much as possible before coming to RB

 

[Minlak]

Looks like light weight ones around 1400grams are around $1500 and heavy duty ones $1199 (says for big blokes). That would seem right according to rule of 2.
1) lightweight
2) strong
3) cheap

You can have any 2 of that list.

 

[vtwiz]

Looks like light weight ones around 1400grams are around $1500 and heavy duty ones $1199 (says for big blokes). That would seem right according to rule of 2.
1) lightweight
2) strong
3) cheap

You can have any 2 of that list.

That's what used to be taught but now there is another new formula:

1) lightweight
2) strong
3) cheap
4) Chinese.

(Sometimes) If you add number 4 to the equation you can have all 4 ;-)

 

[Minlak]

That's what used to be taught but now there is another new formula:

1) lightweight
2) strong
3) cheap
4) Chinese.

(Sometimes) If you add number 4 to the equation you can have all 4 ;-)

That certainly is true with many things we have paid a premium because that's what we are used to. Many things can be just as good and cheaper. I like my fan analogy I use it at work a cheap fan moves air an expensive fan moves air they are just fans. This rings true for many things especially as manufacturing is done to maximise profits. Quite often the cheaper product can be exactly the same as the brand name product. There are still things we always pay more for at work as we get better back up service from the brand name.

Having said that it can be difficult when to know the good cheap from the expensive good and cheap crap and expensive crap

 

[The Duckmeister]

I highly doubt the cost of the wheelbuilder (spokes + nipples + labour) will be the same as me doing it myself and getting him to tension/dish/true it.

No, it'd probably cost you more than if you let the builder do it from scratch. If the builder does it fron the start, they'll know the tension is going in evenly all the way. You send 'em half-done wheels, who knows where the tension will be, so it'll actually take longer to suss it all out.

As for length, spokes are most commonly sold in even-numbered 2mm increments, so round to the nearest even-numbered millimetre. There is some room for adjustment.

 

[ChopSticks]

(Sometimes) If you add number 4 to the equation you can have all 4 ;-)

LOL :thumb:

I like my fan analogy I use it at work a cheap fan moves air an expensive fan moves air they are just fans.

have you ever stood infornt/own a Dyson fan?........... try sleeping infront of one ! and tell me they are 'just fans' that move air the same

No, it'd probably cost you more than if you let the builder do it from scratch. If the builder does it fron the start, they'll know the tension is going in evenly all the way. You send 'em half-done wheels, who knows where the tension will be, so it'll actually take longer to suss it all out.

As for length, spokes are most commonly sold in even-numbered 2mm increments, so round to the nearest even-numbered millimetre. There is some room for adjustment.

does your $75 per wheel offer still stand? lol (recall reading on some other forum)

my intention wasn't actually to tension up the wheels (nothing to rideable levels)... I simply planned to finger tighten the nipples to the spokes, nothing more...and have Greg to do the rest?
I wanted to save on the major labour costs of installing the nipples inside the full UST rims rims....hence suggesting I do it myself.

YES, Sapim CX rays only come in 2mm even increments.
the spoke calc says I require 251.1mm spokes (left and right)...so you suggest rounding UP to 252?

Ducky, can sapim CX rays be cut and re-threaded (since bladed)? or can that only be done to DB/PG spokes?

 

[The Duckmeister]

Yeah, I still do the $75/wheel thing. That's labour only, and I'd prefer to do it from scratch (for the reason outlined previously). Although the full UST thing & farting around with magnets to pull the nipples in might add a bit more. I also note you're in Sydney, so I'd have to add freight to that too (I'm in Melbourne).

Cuttability of the CX Rays depends on how far from the existing thread the transition to blade section is. Often there's not all that much to play with.

Your hypothetical 251.1, yeah, I'd go up to 252 with that, but 250.9 I'd go down to 250.

 

[brisneyland]

my intention wasn't actually to tension up the wheels (nothing to rideable levels)... I simply planned to finger tighten the nipples to the spokes, nothing more...and have Greg to do the rest?
I wanted to save on the major labour costs of installing the nipples inside the full UST rims rims....hence suggesting I do it myself.

YES, Sapim CX rays only come in 2mm even increments.
the spoke calc says I require 251.1mm spokes (left and right)...so you suggest rounding UP to 252?

I would think a good wheel builder would be able to lace a wheel in less than ten minutes. Hardly a major labour cost.

Either do it yourself the entire way, or let the wheel builder do everything, including supply the spokes and nips.

I started a thread here a few months ago about my first wheel build - went well, wheels still running great (front needs a tiny tweak but I've been too lazy). Get yourself a tension meter and you can make do without everything else.

 

[SummitFever]

...YES, Sapim CX rays only come in 2mm even increments.
the spoke calc says I require 251.1mm spokes (left and right)...so you suggest rounding UP to 252?

Thin spokes like CX-rays always round down. They will stretch when bringing them up to final tension.

BUT, do not order spokes until you have the rims and can measure the ERD yourself (at several places and using the nipples you intend to use for the build).

If you need a Sydney-sider to help you out, contact MTBwanabe. I think he's built a few of these with the LB rims.