i have no idea what that is.Just needs one of those "lock" in saddles. In purple.
Oh, that thing is scary!Lol. Check out the post a couple back from mine.... The purple is cool. Go with it!
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I just realised, you're single ring on the front. What size ring?typically the parts i was waiting for arrived the day after i flew to perth for a few weeks.... finally home and able to ride it, tight wheelbase is fantastic.
cheers! i'd love to build a titanium frame up in a similar style, but that will have to wait a while... a long while.Very cool mitchy, your bike is one of my favourites. Would like to do a cross bike on a similar recipe with a steel frame sometime soon..
44t with an 11-28 cassette.I just realised, you're single ring on the front. What size ring?
Ok, that range would get almost everywhere except the steepest hill, just maybe not as fast some sections.44t with an 11-28 cassette.
i'm by no means a speed racer, i just like overdoing things.
Hmmm, same. You've got me thinking now, because I've got a full Dura-Ace 7900 drivetrain (for no good reason - I suck at road, but I excel at unnecessarily destroying credit limits), but the cassette, chain and probably chainrings are due for a refresh and it's just _so_ much money for a few Dura-Ace bits.44t with an 11-28 cassette.
i'm by no means a speed racer, i just like overdoing things.
Appreciate the knowledgeable advice. The internets have saved me again. Thanks Duck.Just a little heads-up on you ponderings there Bodin, XT 10-sp. derailleur won't play with the road shifter, for the same reason it won't play with 9-sp. MTB shifters.... Shimano's MTB 10-sp. stuff works on its own leverage ratio that's not compatible with anything else. A 9-sp. MTB rear derailleur however is fine with road shifters (but then you don't get the clutch, which personally I think is unnecessary on road anyway). Also, Dura-Ace has the option of a 42T small ring, which might be a little bit more useable.
at the moment i'm actually using a 3/32" track chainring. works perfectly with a 10spd chain, and has nice high teeth. my plan was to go to a N-W ring (wolftooth and a few others make up to 44t in N-W for 1x10 CX'ers) however i wanted to confirm the size i wanted without forking out almost $100 for a N-W ring.Hmmm, same. You've got me thinking now, because I've got a full Dura-Ace 7900 drivetrain (for no good reason - I suck at road, but I excel at unnecessarily destroying credit limits), but the cassette, chain and probably chainrings are due for a refresh and it's just _so_ much money for a few Dura-Ace bits.
I just use my roadie for occasional long, easy pace training rides and I'm-running-late-so-I'd-better-use-the-roadie-commuting and most 2-ring combos seem to leave me with 2 wrong rings and no right one for the flat roads that are 90% of the roads I ride (39 slightly too small, 53 slightly too big - I never get to ride in the middle of the cassette with a nice, straight chainline).
Is it a narrow-wide ring of some kind that you're using? I have a spare short (medium?) cage XT shadow+ rear mech, so wondering if that might also get involved. I'm thinking a 46t narrow-wide, xt rear mech and 11-28 Ultegra for the flats and 11-32 XT for the rare occasions when I go near hills. Yeah, the drivetrain won't be as pretty to look at any more (or as light), but I might actually like using it more.
Duck really should have his own mech section here on the 'burn. Or a youtube channel, or just create a new site that puts sheldon brown to shame.Appreciate the knowledgeable advice. The internets have saved me again. Thanks Duck.