The hardtail riding thread

singlespeedfreeride

singlespeedfreeride

Cycleworld
theres really no point to them, theyre just pikes with argyle lowers. and if you look at the lowers, they are exactly the same, and according to some sram rep, they are exactly the same, that way they save money by not having to cast 2 different lowers when they dont need to. so its just a pike with argyle graphics really.
 
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sanderscain

Likes Dirt
Not interesting anymore. haha. And how to pikes compare to argyles? I now own a pair of argyles, but a set of pikes cam up that could be a very decent price.
 
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JONO WADE

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Starting to consider a different frame because the one i wanted is going to take far too long to get here. Has anyone here ran 26" wheel in a 24" suburban? I know they can fit, and i've been looking at the geometry and it's very similar to the park majesty. Thoughts?
 
singlespeedfreeride

singlespeedfreeride

Cycleworld
i know that a few people on another site have ordered from them, theyre legit. pretty big store in poland as it has NS stuff super cheap for them.

also going to try take turndowns from the bmx to mtb, now that i have clearance for my leg. another advantage of having a huge bar. try them flyout first and see how that goes.
 
J

JONO WADE

Likes Bikes and Dirt
singlespeedfreeride said:
i know that a few people on another site have ordered from them, theyre legit. pretty big store in poland as it has NS stuff super cheap for them.

also going to try take turndowns from the bmx to mtb, now that i have clearance for my leg. another advantage of having a huge bar. try them flyout first and see how that goes.
Click to expand...
Mate of mine has turndowns pretty dialed on mtb, but he doesn't really do them that much because it just looks weird...
I have photos somewhere, will see if i can find them.
 
singlespeedfreeride

singlespeedfreeride

Cycleworld
yeah i know theyve been done, carter holland has them dialled, but ive only ever done them on my little bike. only thing i can see that will get in the way is my tyre hitting my shin before its clicked, but it should be ok.
 
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sanderscain

Likes Dirt
Anyone want to swap a hardtail for a bmx. High end bmx.
Frame: Cult OS version 2
Bars: Shadow conspiracy vultus 30x9
Stem: Fly Alta, top load
Forks: Odyssey Dirt Classic
Headset: Cane creek
Cranks: Macneil Consplined cranks, titanium spindle
Sprocket: s&m L7
Front hub: Profile Elite
Rear Hub: Profile Elite
Rims: Odyssey Hazard lite
Tyres: Fit FAF in redwall.

Check my threads if you're interested.
 
singlespeedfreeride

singlespeedfreeride

Cycleworld
did a little mod to my hub today. just need to find an 11t profile driver and its done. and due to the positioning of the pawls i actually have slightly more POE than the standard hope cassette.

p4pb8197725.jpg
 
singlespeedfreeride

singlespeedfreeride

Cycleworld
the hub usually uses a cassette which only lets me go down to 12t without getting sketchy. so i took the cassette off and put on a profile mini driver, so i can go down to 9t, and made a spacer so the hub still fits in the dropout. by made i mean i still had the offcuts from an old bar and they looked around the right size so i used them, and it fit like a glove.

also i asked hope, and i beleive this will work on the new pro 2 evo ss hub, as it has the same hub body.
 
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g-fish

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Wait, how is the handlebar holding onto the hub?

And what gear are you running rob? Sounds pretty stiff to me.. micro gearing is silly anyway. Look at bmx's, they don't even run little gears any more!
 
singlespeedfreeride

singlespeedfreeride

Cycleworld
well thats a 9t, so its way too stiff. i need to get either an 11 or 12t. so for now ill be running the standard cassette. this is just a proof of concept. also its very easy to find a 25t sprocket, so thats another reason to run smaller ratios. it also helps with crank slides.

now because the driver is so much shorter than the cassette, you have about 10mm of room between the outside bearing of the driver and the end of the hubs axle, and them you have a 5mm gap between the end of the axle and your dropout, because the standard cassettes locking mechanism has a spacer which is exactly the same dimensions as the washer you find on the hub bolt. so i took that washer, put it between the axle and the dropout, then the cut off bar is a spacer that prevents the driver from sliding around on the axle.

if that doesnt help you ill just need to take photos as its hard to explain without them. basically the 5mm thick washer is a spacer for the axle, and the cut off bar is a spacer for the driver. i also have another washer against the driver to avoid putting a side load on the bearing seal when i tighten the hub.
 
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g-fish

Likes Bikes and Dirt
All the trouble/ghetto-ness seems redundant if you're going to run a 11 or 12t cog..

I can sort of get my head around what you're doing, How's the chainline now?
 
singlespeedfreeride

singlespeedfreeride

Cycleworld
its pretty good actually. its a bit out but i took it for a test ride and its still fairly smooth. the chain runs really close to the chainstay though.

if i were to go 23:10 it would be useful, as i wouldnt need a new hub, but either way by doing this i shave off almost 100g of rotational weight. its also not very complicated, it took me around 20 minutes to wrap my head around what i needed to do and get all the parts together. hardest part is getting the driver to sit in the hub shell, because the profile pawl springs are really tight, you have to actually remove the axle to get it to sit in there properly.
 
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