The QUICK question thread.....

wkkie

It's Not Easy Being Green
I want to try a new back tyre (preferably Maxxis) that offers some reasonable rolling resistance and grip.

The DHR II offered too much of the former and the current Rekon is too much of the latter. Any suggestions?
DHF linked above. Maybe not 2.6. Actually, you're on a hardtail. Go for it!
 

pink poodle

気が狂っている男
If you guys haven't mounted your tyres inside out yet you are really behind the trend on alternate tyre application. The only negative is how tricky it is to line up the valves with the logos.
 

treble

Likes Dirt
Quick question:
If I’ve got a boost rear hub. Do I need a boost specific crank? I’m looking at a set with a 50.4mm chainline (whatever that means) and all these chainline/q-factor/spacing numbers have my head spinning.
 

moorey

call me Mia
Quick question:
If I’ve got a boost rear hub. Do I need a boost specific crank? I’m looking at a set with a 50.4mm chainline (whatever that means) and all these chainline/q-factor/spacing numbers have my head spinning.
Maybe. Deluxe last bike (process) was boost, running non boost cranks (and non boost hub with kit). New bike would never have the clearance between chainring and chainstay.
If you’re running threaded BB, at least there’s an option to run an extra BB spacer to move it out a couple of mm.
 

Minlak

custom titis
Quick question:
If I’ve got a boost rear hub. Do I need a boost specific crank? I’m looking at a set with a 50.4mm chainline (whatever that means) and all these chainline/q-factor/spacing numbers have my head spinning.
Not that easy a question - My 2018 Torrent needed a wider Q-Factor to get the crank arms passed the chain chainstays. The actual difference at the chainring is 3mm chain ring vs 6mm chainring - the cranks were the same (except for q factor) just the chainring offset is different
 
Top