Ultra Lord
Hurts. Requires Money. And is nerdy.
Dissector or aggressor @HamboCairns.
DHF linked above. Maybe not 2.6. Actually, you're on a hardtail. Go for it!I want to try a new back tyre (preferably Maxxis) that offers some reasonable rolling resistance and grip.
The DHR II offered too much of the former and the current Rekon is too much of the latter. Any suggestions?
These are a great all purpose trail tyre.Ardent. I've got a few 27.5 spare if you want one? About 10 bucks to post.
I'm on a 29 I'm afraid, thanks for the kind offer though!Ardent. I've got a few 27.5 spare if you want one? About 10 bucks to post.
It wasn't an offer, as much as it was a skite.I'm on a 29 I'm afraid, thanks for the kind offer though!
DHF rolls slower than DHR2 on the back though.DHF linked above. Maybe not 2.6. Actually, you're on a hardtail. Go for it!
I disagree. DHR2 / HR2 then DHF for speed on the back. IMHO of course...DHF rolls slower than DHR2 on the back though.
You have that completely backwards. In order of better rolling:I disagree. DHR2 / HR2 then DHF for speed on the back. IMHO of course...
Correct, I did have that ass about for some reason.You have that completely backwards. In order of better rolling:
DHF~HR2~DHR2.
Weirdo.
Glad that’s finally settled.Correct, you did have that ass about for some reason.
And now I’m just contradicting myself!
Try a DHF backwards and let me know what you think…
Front or rear??Try a DHF backwards and let me know what you think…
Front. You acknowledged they aren’t great on the rear already.Front or rear??
Maybe. Deluxe last bike (process) was boost, running non boost cranks (and non boost hub with kit). New bike would never have the clearance between chainring and chainstay.Quick question:
If I’ve got a boost rear hub. Do I need a boost specific crank? I’m looking at a set with a 50.4mm chainline (whatever that means) and all these chainline/q-factor/spacing numbers have my head spinning.
Not that easy a question - My 2018 Torrent needed a wider Q-Factor to get the crank arms passed the chain chainstays. The actual difference at the chainring is 3mm chain ring vs 6mm chainring - the cranks were the same (except for q factor) just the chainring offset is differentQuick question:
If I’ve got a boost rear hub. Do I need a boost specific crank? I’m looking at a set with a 50.4mm chainline (whatever that means) and all these chainline/q-factor/spacing numbers have my head spinning.