Mr Crudley
Glock in your sock
I had the chance to pop into the MTB Suspension Centre yesterday to pick up some ye olde Talas forks where I couldn't get the travel control to behave.
Well, I was wondering and asked a few questions and wanted to share here some details here. If you are already up to speed on mounting hardware then move on.
I asked Simon about the fuzzy dark art of rear shock mounting hardware which I sure don't think about much
Essentially, is one method better than the other?
The newer design, apparently in its early stages, had quite tightly fitting top hat bushings could lead to some binding around the shock mount and giving the feeling of stiction and bonus squeaks that were hard to find. This has been fixed in following versions.
Newer frames with more rigid CF swingarms with a higher number of linkages made to higher manufacturing tolerances has led to more solid mounting hardware without the need for the DU bushing and O-rings. Any O rings are there to provide a dust proof seal and are very small.
Not that either are inherently bad and are interchangeable without messing things up royally, but best to stick with what the manufacturer has done when designing the frame. Just to keep in mind when swapping over a shock to your trusty steed
Well, I was wondering and asked a few questions and wanted to share here some details here. If you are already up to speed on mounting hardware then move on.
I asked Simon about the fuzzy dark art of rear shock mounting hardware which I sure don't think about much
Essentially, is one method better than the other?
- The older design with the DU bushing in the rear shock eyelet remaining. Commonly will use an O-ring to fill in the remaining space between the rear shock and the mounting hardware thingys.
- The newer 'Fox' design with no DU bushing. The eyelet instead uses 2 x top hat polymer bushing thingys pressed together in place instead of the metal DU bushing. The mounting hardware that fits into it all is made of harder plastics or alloy.
The newer design, apparently in its early stages, had quite tightly fitting top hat bushings could lead to some binding around the shock mount and giving the feeling of stiction and bonus squeaks that were hard to find. This has been fixed in following versions.
Newer frames with more rigid CF swingarms with a higher number of linkages made to higher manufacturing tolerances has led to more solid mounting hardware without the need for the DU bushing and O-rings. Any O rings are there to provide a dust proof seal and are very small.
Not that either are inherently bad and are interchangeable without messing things up royally, but best to stick with what the manufacturer has done when designing the frame. Just to keep in mind when swapping over a shock to your trusty steed
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