The white ones are made without pig fat.
The white ones are made without pig fat.
Well..pig fat is clearly where all the flavour is.The white ones are made without pig fat.
So very trueWell..pig fat is clearly where all the flavour is.
The reason for the additional offset is so if running a front derailleur it clears the larger sized tires used on a gravel bike when running a double chainring.Yeah thanks mate, the whole grx with more offset really threw me. But I guess the offset happens at the crank, not the bb.
It's not the surface that seals high pressure, it's just an aniti-friction coating on the outside, you usually get those marks when the collar has become loose but it's not limited to that either.These lines on the dropper - guessing its from dust etc over the years wearing on guide/ridge things inside the main cylinder?
Only noticed them in last few rides as the dropper had gotten slow and I took it off to clean and have a closer look. Probably have been there a while though. Question is whether its past the point of no return now? PUN INTENDED.
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They come in red so you’ll go faster.Who is the marzocchi fanboi on RB?
Can said fanboi explain why I must get a z2 bomber?
I'm pretty much sold on the idea for a number of reasons, but just need some confirmation to confirm my confirmation bias.
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Nostalgia? Don't know. My understanding is they're a cheaper version of a FoxWho is the marzocchi fanboi on RB?
Can said fanboi explain why I must get a z2 bomber?
I'm pretty much sold on the idea for a number of reasons, but just need some confirmation to confirm my confirmation bias.
Sent from my SM-A205YN using Tapatalk
Ok, so I was way off. And now I want one.Nostalgia? Don't know. My understanding is they're a cheaper version of a Fox
Drop a few big Macs.Attached a shock wiz to my fork and need to calibrate the compression ratio. This involves letting air pressure out then pulling up to full extension then pushing down to full compression.
Problem is, my surplus fork has a coil negative and when I remove enough pressure to be able to compress the fork fully, I can’t pull it up to full extension - the coil is too strong.
Any tips for setting the compression ration manually or working around this somehow?
Yeah the collar was loose, I used a strap wrench to tighten properly now...It's not the surface that seals high pressure, it's just an aniti-friction coating on the outside, you usually get those marks when the collar has become loose but it's not limited to that either.
Add some air back into the positive air chamber (not so much that you can't fully compress the fork) about 30-40psi max. This should help with getting full extension of the fork.Attached a shock wiz to my fork and need to calibrate the compression ratio. This involves letting air pressure out then pulling up to full extension then pushing down to full compression.
Problem is, my surplus fork has a coil negative and when I remove enough pressure to be able to compress the fork fully, I can’t pull it up to full extension - the coil is too strong.
Any tips for setting the compression ration manually or working around this somehow?
Thanks but I tried that. I’m letting out just enough air that I can fully compress and at that point (around 30-40psi as you say) I can’t pull the fork up to full extension.Add some air back into the positive air chamber (not so much that you can't fully compress the fork) about 30-40psi max. This should help with getting full extension of the fork.
The key is to not change the air pressure during the calibration.
Pretty sure this is right as Shockwiz records air pressure changes to gather data.I doubt the Shockwiz will be able to decipher a combination air/coil spring anyway...