It's a Surly 1x1, so according to the website it's a 73mm English thread. I run a hollowtech II bb, same as in the photo.If it is a 68mm english thread BB you need 2 x 2.5mm spacers on the drive side and one 2.5mm on the non drive side.
I'd recommend choosing a rim and hub independently and have it built up at a good LBS. I'm a big fan of Hope SS hubs (very quick engagement) and Stan's rims (arch). Not sure if Stan's would work for ur tyres? I run this combo and have been bullet proof for 5 years and counting.Have blown through 2 spokes on the rear drive side of my GT Peace 9r this week.
Too much torque
Looking for a 29" single speed rear wheel and not too sure what to get. I use the bike for commuting, so kerb hopping and ability to run a 50 x 622 Schwalbe Marathon Dureme is essential.
Suggestions?
How does a two speed bike be a single speed?I've wondered about a hammerschmidt single speed..
Thanks, went with a rebuild of the standard hub and the standard WTB Speed Disc rim. Went with 2mm DT Swiss spokes and brass nipples. Just over $100 to get rebuilt. Happy with that.I'd recommend choosing a rim and hub independently and have it built up at a good LBS. I'm a big fan of Hope SS hubs (very quick engagement) and Stan's rims (arch). Not sure if Stan's would work for ur tyres? I run this combo and have been bullet proof for 5 years and counting.
Cool build. Stick with the v-brakes. A bit different since most run hydros these days. Enjoy it and ride the hell out of it!I just picked up what looks like an old rigid Litespeed its a 26er with horizontal dropouts and Vbrake only,
I'm tossing up between building it up with a nice V brake SS bits, Paul hubs, Velocity rims, XTR V brakes(or 2014 XT Vbrakes) etc and keeping it rigid and super light or getting a disc brake tabs welded on and going a modern wheel, disc brakes and suspension forks.
I just want someone one to slap me over the head and tell me to drop the coin on building it light rigid and V braked, or an honest opinion will suffice.
Im just struggling to justify it a little because it seems so antiquated
+1 on this, Either that or take your new factory wheelset straight the you LBS to have them trued/rebuilt. I bought a stock pair of chukkers a while ago that kept coming loose. Now they're going strong after a bike shop visit. But if you've got the money, build from scratch IMHO.I'd recommend choosing a rim and hub independently and have it built up at a good LBS. I'm a big fan of Hope SS hubs (very quick engagement) and Stan's rims (arch). Not sure if Stan's would work for ur tyres? I run this combo and have been bullet proof for 5 years and counting.
I always found surly ones to be the best value as they last but still around $30... Looks like they make a 15T ...Quick Q, peeps. I run a regular hub with home made spacers. Running a 13/32 gearing, which is a bit high on long, hilly trail rides, but I use the 13 because it's wider, having the built in spacer from a 9sp cassette.
Id like to bang a 14t on, but all mine are narrow (no built in spacer), and will destroy the hope alu free hub body.
I don't want to change to a steel free hub, and I don't want to build up an SS hub.
Can an anyone point me to a wider based 14t, or even a 15t