rockmoose
his flabber is totally gastered
I would have thought he needs to up his hydration levels a touch.More dietary fibre needed.
I would have thought he needs to up his hydration levels a touch.More dietary fibre needed.
That tooI would have thought he needs to up his hydration levels a touch.
This is awesome. We have a hardwood framed house in Canberry, a whole wall will be ripped out sometime next year.We are getting prepared to manufacture loudspeakers commercially using reclaimed housing frames from houses being demolished in Melbourne.
You could try soaking it in water for a few hours firstI would have thought he needs to up his hydration levels a touch.
Where do you find ironbark studs in Melbourne? 100 to 120 years ago it was nearly all messmate and mountain ash from this side of the divide as far as I knew.
Definitely would have been sold as OB when it was first used. My understanding is the ironbark was used more for things like post and rail fencing, railway sleepers, mine supports and piers. The kind of things where it was used in big dimensions where it could be split rather than cut. Cuttting up timber like ironbark before tool steel had been worked out would have been a nightmare.I'd say it's OB hardwood so could be a variety of things. There's a variety across Melbourne depending on age and location.
Old dry iron bark is the devils work, it is very hard on tools and will reduce you cut depths and feed rates. Lovely timber but brutal on tools.
It's probably a lot like the old jarrah house timbers over here. When the house was built it was still a bit green so cut and nailed relatively easy. Roll on a hundred years and it's a different story.Definitely would have been sold as OB when it was first used. My understanding is the ironbark was used more for things like post and rail fencing, railway sleepers, mine supports and piers. The kind of things where it was used in big dimensions where it could be split rather than cut. Cuttting up timber like ironbark before tool steel had been worked out would have been a nightmare.
I think @Jpez works a bit with reclaimed timber, he might know a bit more about species used as ordinary builders.
It's truly impossible to tell but I would say that's messmate. And it really doesn't matter cause any heavy, well seasoned euc is hard on the tools. I've got quite a number of big chunks of narrow leaf ironbark that were taken out of the Pilliga in the 1980s.
Pretty much describes a lot of old euc timber. It doesn't have to be old to snap a batten screw...my opinion of them has declined over the last fifteen years. I think they are only good for holding down mgp10 these days.It was a mate of my wife’s who is a timber grader who told me this was ironbark, species identification isn’t my strong suit, I’ve blindly followed her suggestion, but as everyone is saying, Ironbark’s naturally occurring locations don’t make sense for house framing usage in Melbourne 80-120 years ago.
Still hard as fuck, whatever it is. A bugle head batten screw will snap if you don’t drill a 5mm pilot hole, even 5mm cobalt bits hate it. This cross section sample of collapse is probably the worse case I’ve seen. Dimensions are roughly 95-100 x 50-55mm, from floor joists locations I believe. I’ll weigh a long piece to get an idea of density.
I assume you're going to cut them to match the rectangle opening, but it would also look cool if you traced the shape, routed the surface of the table so they sit flush and keep the rough edges. Would match well with the natural edges along the side of the table IMO.Did a quick POC last nigh for the insert using clearance tiles from Bunnings, worked out ok I think.
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I've actually glued them to a piece of marine ply that sits in the opening. I'm going to keep them raised that way when having big meals hot dishes can be put on it without damaging the table.I assume you're going to cut them to match the rectangle opening, but it would also look cool if you traced the shape, routed the surface of the table so they sit flush and keep the rough edges. Would match well with the natural edges along the side of the table IMO.
I figured, but I would still recess it about 2/3rds the width of the tile. I would make any other inserts fit the recess!Also if I routed to have the insert flush I could never have a different insert because it would never fit properly.
This is only 2 for me so I think you have time to catch upI figured, but I would still recess it about 2/3rds the width of the tile. I would make any other inserts fit the recess!
Realistically though, I have made zero tables - so you're one-up (at least) on me.