Tubeless setup

[mas2]

So is stans still the go or does it not really matter anymore?
I saw Big W even sell slimes sealant: https://www.bigw.com.au/product/slime-tyre-tube-sealant/p/5416400/

 

[creaky]

@mas2

Stans is the best at getting a reliable seal and minimal air loss over days I find. There are a couple of newer ones (peaty’s) that I haven’t tried though.

All of the ones I’ve tried over the years have left me disappointed with puncture repair performance. I guess you only notice the ones that don’t seal up !

You’re welcome to bring some tubeless valves of the right length and tape of appropriate width for your rims to my place on your way home from bunya one weekend and we can set it up.

 

[Jpez]

Ye

The shake test! Hear sloshing? Yes, all good! No, top it up!

Yep pretty much what I do. The useless Huck Norris makes it hard to determine the amount though as it flaps around too hence popping the bead.
Plus I absolutely hate it when valves get clogged up so have always stuck with the old fashioned method which works great for me.

 

[moorey]

I’ve also tried many, and have settled on the stans, Though I’ve moved to the race variety. Testing out the Orange brand stuff at the moment. Seems very promising.

 

[Cardy George]

I’ve also tried many, and have settled on the stans, Though I’ve moved to the race variety. Testing out the Orange brand stuff at the moment. Seems very promising.

Stan's Race works for me, but curious about Orange Seal. Let your thoughts be known

 

[moorey]

Stan's Race works for me, but curious about Orange Seal. Let your thoughts be known

Early days, but it’s a bit thicker, and does it seem to go chunky like the stans and after I a while. Sales up really well, but it’s a bit dearer, and I go through litres of sealant with all the bikes to keep up.

 

[Flow-Rider]

How do you go determining how much sealant is still in there?

You can shake the rim around and hear it slosh or pull the valve core out then poke something thin in there and use it as a dip stick. I can tell you now and I've used most of the popular sealants on the market that they dry up around the 3 month mark. I've found the Orange enduro sealant is the best for plugging large holes but it's way over priced.

 

[ashes_mtb]

You can shake the rim around and hear it slosh or pull the valve core out then poke something thin in there and use it as a dip stick. I can tell you now and I've used most of the popular sealants on the market that they dry up around the 3 month mark. I've found the Orange enduro sealant is the best for plugging large holes but it's way over priced.

Is the old stuff easy enough to get out when it's dried up?

 

[Flow-Rider]

Ye
Plus I absolutely hate it when valves get clogged up so have always stuck with the old fashioned method which works great for me.

Remove the valve core and spray some silicone grease or CRC on it so that the sealant doesn't stick to it.

If you pinch the tyre with your hand before plugging the syringe hose on and keep the valve stem at 7 O'clock when you fill, you'll hardly ever have a problem and it will not spit the last bit of sealant over your rim when you remove the hose.

 

[Flow-Rider]

Is the old stuff easy enough to get out when it's dried up?

No sealant seems to be easy to remove I've found, I just keep on adding sealant until I need to replace or remove the tyre. I usually scrub the bead with steel wool if I need to reuse a tyre.

 

[rowdyflat]

the bit about tubeless I have found the hardest is to get a good seal in the first place.
With tape the rim has to be v clean and dry , the tape has to placed and stretched really carefully, really needs a tube for 24 hrs to press it in place.
Then I use plumbing silicon on the valve body to get it to seal.
Then cross fingers then swear.

 

[moorey]

You’re really overthinking it.
I do none ot that. It’s a 10 minute job in total, and works every time.

 

[creaky]

You’re really overthinking it.
I do none ot that. It’s a 10 minute job in total, and works every time.

Agreed. The hardest part it getting the bloody tyre on sometimes. Schwalbe.

 

[moorey]

Agreed. The hardest part it getting the bloody tyre on sometimes. Schwalbe.

Another thing I never struggle with...aside from the occasional DH Maxxis tyre.
Just make sure you keep the bead in the Centre of the valley all the way round, and leave the valve till last if its fitted.
I find Schwalbe harder to inflate, other than the thicker casing ones.
I’ve said it before, I won’t ride trails on a tyre I can’t fit or remove without tyre levers.

 

[creaky]

Another thing I never struggle with...aside from the occasional DH Maxxis tyre.
Just make sure you keep the bead in the Centre of the valley all the way round, and leave the valve till last if its fitted.
I find Schwalbe harder to inflate, other than the thicker casing ones.
I’ve said it before, I won’t ride trails on a tyre I can’t fit or remove without tyre levers.

Def got the technique going and my DT rims and AC rims are easy. Schwalbes onto Roval rims is a half hour swear fest involving three tyre levers. They are damn nice tyres and rims though.

I actually caved and bought one of those tyre plug kits a while back cause there ain’t no way those tyres are coming off on the side of the trail !

 

[Flow-Rider]

Some rim and tyre combos are a nightmare but a lot of tyres loosen up with a bit of riding.

 

[moorey]

Guess I’ve got my combo’s dialed then. Stans rims with maxxis EXO makes up 98% of my fleet. I’m doing tyres for others all the time luckily haven’t struck a problem.

 

[Cardy George]

Vittorias on DT XMC 1200 are a challenge. Achievable, but a challenge.

 

[moorey]

Good. They sound XC

 

[Cardy George]

29er too. Not that it matters.....