What did you do TO / WITH / FOR your bike today!

fjohn860

fjohn860

Alice in diaperland
ozzybmx said:
Had to have a good search for the thread, couldn't remember the magic buzzwords.

GX Eagle - shitty shifting solved!!

Finally! Been suffering with ghost shifting, poor indexing and generally just bloody annoying, inconsistent shifting on this thing since new. Did all the the things, new cables, new better cables, even sprung for an X01 shifter. Still shit. Finally noticed the B screw bolt had a shitload of...
www.rotorburn.com

Basically the gist of it is, on Srams 12spd range, the difference from SX-NX-GX-X0-XX is tighter tolerances and lighter materials, if the tolerances were the same you would be hard pushed to notice the shifting difference from top to bottom. The slop in the lower range is shithouse, it can be fixed with an X0 top bolt and b-bolt kit... or in this case, a shim washer I already had.

We have NX, GX and X0, the slop in the NX is crap, about a 10mm wobble at the bottom jockey :rolleyes:
Click to expand...
Hmmm, my NX 11sp seems to shift well. But maybe I'll have a closer look at the amount of freeplay...
 
ozzybmx

ozzybmx

taking a shit with my boobs out
fjohn860 said:
Hmmm, my NX 11sp seems to shift well. But maybe I'll have a closer look at the amount of freeplay...
Click to expand...
I'm not sure if it was an issue with 11spd, the only 11spd Sram I had was XX1 its been trouble free (still on my XC race bike), everything else we had with 11spd was Shimano.

Slacken your chain, put the lock pin in place and give the bottom of the cage a wobble. Check for movement around the Top Bolt that attaches the derailleur to hanger.
 
Mr Crudley

Mr Crudley

Glock in your sock
Cardy George said:
Went hunting for lost travel.

View attachment 367385

The pressure equalisation dimple was full of gunk.

Did a bit of research and now that I fully understand how it works, I probably over greased it when I installed the Debonair spring. Genuinely surprised at how air tight the lower legs are.
Click to expand...
We had the same sort of day. I pulled apart the Pikes and gave it a full service.

The Charger dampener service was more straightforward than I thought it would be. Not so on the air spring side.

Once put back together, it was using too much travel. I figured I messed it up well till I read other stories and learnt about the evil dimple.

Judy Butter looks a bit too thick to me and I think it can only be a matter of time till it gets clogged and probably will get scraped away by the O rings anyhow.

Anyone use a light grease or special sauce lube on Solo Airs? I still have it in bits and might try slick honey and maybe a squirt of a 3 or 5wt fluid.

Almost done but will look at it with fresh eyes later. Oh well :)

DSC_3327.jpg
 
Cardy George

Cardy George

Piercing rural members since 1981
Mr Crudley said:
We had the same sort of day. I pulled apart the Pikes and gave it a full service.

The Charger dampener service was more straightforward than I thought it would be. Not so on the air spring side.

Once put back together, it was using too much travel. I figured I messed it up well till I read other stories and learnt about the evil dimple.

Judy Butter looks a bit too thick to me and I think it can only be a matter of time till it gets clogged and probably will get scraped away by the O rings anyhow.

Anyone use a light grease or special sauce lube on Solo Airs? I still have it in bits and might try slick honey and maybe a squirt of a 3 or 5wt fluid.

Almost done but will look at it with fresh eyes later. Oh well :)

View attachment 367389
Click to expand...
I used Slik Honey and it's still a bit slow for those last 5mm or so, but it does get there. I'm waiting to see what it does after I've ridden it on Monday, whether it's cleared the dimple by itself or not.

Thinking it through after the fact, I might have put a little too much grease on the piston head. Not as bad as last time though. Time will tell.
 
Mr Crudley

Mr Crudley

Glock in your sock
Cardy George said:
I used Slik Honey and it's still a bit slow for those last 5mm or so, but it does get there. I'm waiting to see what it does after I've ridden it on Monday, whether it's cleared the dimple by itself or not.

Thinking it through after the fact, I might have put a little too much grease on the piston head. Not as bad as last time though. Time will tell.
Click to expand...
Slik honey it is. I just don't want it go through the weirdness of a blocked dimple and all of the too much, too little, too harsh, too soft problems that it seems to dish out.

I did get too heavy handed with Judy Butter on the first go. It had to happen :)

That dimple is a headache and not in an easy accessible place either.
 
Ultra Lord

Ultra Lord

Hurts. Requires Money. And is nerdy.
The wait was well worth it.

I am disappointed we didn't get a part by part build in his PYR.
"New spoke nipples arrived today! Now we're up to some grips, a bottle cage and some pedals."
 
cokeonspecialtwodollars

cokeonspecialtwodollars

Fartes of Portingale
pink poodle said:
The skinny legs is the thing that has always held me back. Friends with them all rave...and are all skinny peeps. I'm ummmmmm robust, yes robust, and suspect the flex could be real. I thought I saw somewhere that they had upped the stanchion diameter but gone 15mm on the axle. I assumed as a way of stream lining component diverdity at the factory end, which would be a is way to improve or maintain their price advantage. But I am still emotionally attached to the 20mm axle for big...I mean robust riders.

Shortened totems are a boss look. If only I knew a suspension technical I could trust to do such work! One day I may chase this up as I've got a spare totem or two for such projects.
Click to expand...
Starting at come around to Poodle's fetish for 20mm axles... 15mm just not up to the task.

367399
 
Mr Crudley

Mr Crudley

Glock in your sock
pink poodle said:
No which pro was it that said 20mm was too stiff?

It's time for ultra-boost!!!
Click to expand...
I'm in even if I'll never need it.

After 23 seconds of careful thought, I propose a 33mm standard with a new thread pitch that no one currently uses now coupled with the proven 118mm hub standard.
 
fatboyonabike

fatboyonabike

Captain oblivious
I think a stepped axle would be the best bet..
The forces acted on an axle are concentrated towards the centre, so it make sense to have the centre of the axle 20mm and the outer limits down to 15mm..now just to find someone at either Specialized or SRAM to make it and make everything else obsolete!
 
Mr Crudley

Mr Crudley

Glock in your sock
Utter genius @fatboyonabike. Patent that one and watch the $$$ roll in.

You can call it 20mm on the flange side and 15mm on the middle for weight saving and claiming that you have more metal where you need it most plus flex in middle improves cornering.

Then flip the other way with 15mm on the flanges and 20mm in the centre for the obligatory 33% added rigidity while saving weight on the ends.

Just ask marketing what story they prefer.

Make sure that is isn't a perfect design so you have the door open to make an incompatible v2.0 version that fixes the make believe shortcomings and adds more rigidity.

It is almost too easy.
 
fatboyonabike

fatboyonabike

Captain oblivious
Mr Crudley said:
Make sure that is isn't a perfect design so you have the door open to make an incompatible v2.0 version that fixes the make believe shortcomings and adds more rigidity.

It is almost too easy.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I thought having the larger part of the axle in between the two smaller bearings was surely a winner...no more stolen back wheels either ;)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top