What did you do TO / WITH / FOR your bike today!

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
Yesterday, smashed out a big one,
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Thomson Dam view was awesomeView attachment 395004Hardtail was a good choice instead of a gravel bike
View attachment 395005This pic from near the top of Mt Skene, views were great. Saw 35deg on the Garmin while climbing, track was rough as guts.
Wish I took more pics
I drove over that area on a trip to Mt Buller a few years ago. Took the "road" out of Walhalla to Aberfeldy - blew a tyre on the way - then over Mt Selma to Mt Skene. So bloody rough that the bolts mounting the driver's side door lock undid themselves and the lock mechanism fell into the door cavity! :oops:
 

kten

understands stuff moorey doesn't
After slightly toughening up the Phantom to deal with my riding and the trails I ride (Mezzer, preferred bars, 50mm stem and tougher rear tyre mainly) I was eager to find out if I really have been over biked riding the Madonna. After riding the ebike/s for some time I've gotten used to suffering waaayyyyy less on the climbs....barely at all on the full fat with mild suffering on the lightweight Kenevo.

In short no. Both the Madonna and the Phantom are equally as difficult to get uphill. My diet the day before a ride would probably have more of an effect to be honest.

Going downhill the Madonna doesn't exactly eat the little bike but it is much, much more composed and trail feedback is muted substantially. At my normal trail speed I feel the Madonna has my back and feels safe with reserves. The Phantom gets up to 85-90% of my normal trail speed and things are on more of a knife edge and my attention is sharp looking out for things that might be above its pay grade. If the Phantom was a size large it would be a fairer comparison but the little bike does very well!

After todays ride of only 11km and 500m of elevation in 80mins I actually feel more fatigued from the little bike. Going up on either bike is the same. It was the descents that took it out of me on the Phantom. I made a hairpin, off camber steep turn today for the first time ever so there are some places where a small bike just works!

Maybe I just need to stop riding fucking ebikes...

Phantom1.jpg
 

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
Got the last bits of my semi-retro XTR puzzle today, so that side of the Project Phoenix buld is complete. :D

Swapped the bar-clamp shifter caps for I-Spec, then fitted them to the brake levers, then onto the bike. Swapped the spare stem & riser bar that has been on for another spare set with flat bar taken off #2, and with a scungy set of grips simulated a setup for the 710mm bar it will get. Given that each grip is hanging 60mm off the end of the bar, it's only a setup guide and not seriously rideable! With some gear cables and borrowing the seatpost & saddle from #2, it'll be set for some very light shakedown rides to tune the gears & s'pension.
 

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
Gave Project Phoenix its first tentative test roll this arv! :D No gear cables yet so effectively SS for now. Primary purpose was to sus out suspension tune. I wish I could say everything is peachy, but no..... Fork is mostly OK, but needs some tweaking on the lockout setup, which I expected. But rear shock needs a decent service, there is no damping at all on both compression and rebound circuits. :confused:
 

Cardy George

Piercing rural members since 1981
Gave Project Phoenix its first tentative test roll this arv! :D No gear cables yet so effectively SS for now. Primary purpose was to sus out suspension tune. I wish I could say everything is peachy, but no..... Fork is mostly OK, but needs some tweaking on the lockout setup, which I expected. But rear shock needs a decent service, there is no damping at all on both compression and rebound circuits. :confused:
Did you buy your suspension from @Daniel Hale Inc?
 

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
Did you buy your suspension from @Daniel Hale Inc?
No. Fork I got from @link1896. When I got it we had to substantially dismantle it in order to do a steerer swap, and when it was reassembled the damper knobs were pretty much just chucked on with no adjustment, so I knew it needed a proper tweak, just hadn't got around to it. :p Did the necessary tweak today, all good now.

The shock I found on Farcebook mucketplace, and I think from not being used for a while the damper seals have perished & split, 'cos it's leaking around the adjuster knobs.
 

link1896

Mr Greenfield
No. Fork I got from @link1896. When I got it we had to substantially dismantle it in order to do a steerer swap, and when it was reassembled the damper knobs were pretty much just chucked on with no adjustment, so I knew it needed a proper tweak, just hadn't got around to it. :p Did the necessary tweak today, all good now.

The shock I found on Farcebook mucketplace, and I think from not being used for a while the damper seals have perished & split, 'cos it's leaking around the adjuster knobs.
You ok to rebuild that shock?
 

crash3

Likes Dirt
Actually went for a ride yesterday - did half of Coondoo. Some good work has been done to that trail recently.

Also i'm sick of the rear tyre scrubbing on the rear triangle (this has happened since I went tubeless), so I've ordered a narrower rear tyre, something faster rolling too. A Kenda Booster Pro, 2.4 width down from 2.6.
 

crash3

Likes Dirt
Sounds like someone is a little floppy in the back end...
Don't be jealous ;)

Is there any possible reason for this aside from tyres being too wide (and lower pressures now that I'm tubeless)?
I can't see that there'd be any adjustment in the dropout on the rear triangle.
 

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
What bike @crash3? Tubes somewhat make standard tyres like a double-down casing, so tubeless tyres at low pressures with lightweight casing tyres will typically roll around more. That being said, this sounds like it's possibly due to the 2.6" semi-plus tyres wobbling around. 2.4 is a better choice all-round IMO for more than just added clearance (unless you're riding on really soft/loose terrain like sand or bark mulch.
 

crash3

Likes Dirt
What bike @crash3? Tubes somewhat make standard tyres like a double-down casing, so tubeless tyres at low pressures with lightweight casing tyres will typically roll around more. That being said, this sounds like it's possibly due to the 2.6" semi-plus tyres wobbling around. 2.4 is a better choice all-round IMO for more than just added clearance (unless you're riding on really soft/loose terrain like sand or bark mulch.
Yeah of course apologies

Bike is a 2022 Polygon Siskiu T7 size L
Current tyres are the stock Schwalbe Hans Dampf 29x2.6, usually run 20-25 psi, haven't actually checked it for a couple months
Didn't have any rubbing issues until I went tubeless
 

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Yeah of course apologies

Bike is a 2022 Polygon Siskiu T7 size L
Current tyres are the stock Schwalbe Hans Dampf 29x2.6, usually run 20-25 psi, haven't actually checked it for a couple months
Didn't have any rubbing issues until I went tubeless
Haha, No need for apologies!

Random question - do your tyres have little X's in the dust* on the sidewalls after a ride (typically mostly/only on the rear)? If so your tyres are rolling/folding while cornering.

(*If you're lucky to have dust and not bog conditions at the moment!)
 

crash3

Likes Dirt
Haha, No need for apologies!

Random question - do your tyres have little X's in the dust* on the sidewalls after a ride (typically mostly/only on the rear)? If so your tyres are rolling/folding while cornering.

(*If you're lucky to have dust and not bog conditions at the moment!)
I'll check after my next ride, actually washed the bike after yesterday's ride haha
 
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