Question all - my current rear hub is from a RF Aeffect 30 wheelset, 28h straight pull where all the spokes are same length.... not sure what hub it actually is, probably a Novatec of some sort.
I'd like to replace the rim, and 28h options for enduro type rims are quite limited, the other RF AR and ARC 30 advertise as "offset" but i can't quite understand how that works for a hub design where the current spoke length is equal. I presume equal spoke length would mean equal tension and therefore no need for offset?
Bit confused by offset vs asymmetric and whether it matters what hub.
Basically i'm confused. If anyone could explain or point me to a good YouTube video that would be great.
Asymmetric rims have the spoke holes drilled closer to one side (ie. offset), so that the spoke angle from hub flanges to the rim is more equal on both sides, resulting in more spoke tension on the non drive side. If you used an asymmetric rim on a rear wheel, you’d build it so the spoke holes are closer to the brake side because the hub flange on that side is closer to the end of the hub compared to the drive side. Pic to illustrate
Offset, as described already, is the position of the rim between the hub ends. Most bikes need zero offset ie. rim is centred on the centre of the hub, and the tyre has even gaps to seat and chain stays on both sides when the wheel is on the bike. Some manufacturers have rear dropouts offset to the drive side so that the centre line of the hub isn’t in line with the centre line of the rear triangle of the frame. Eg. Cannondale AI
The hub itself is nothing exotic, but the spoke hole drilling offset distance in asymmetric rims needs to be included in the spoke length calculation.
Here’s my simple but effective dishing tool too - aluminium channel with some long machine screws. Started with screw to channel distance of (hub width - rim outside with)/2 and tweaked once the wheel was built. Suits a hack like me that will only build a wheel every now and then.