Any Zwifters out there?

ozzybmx

call me Cáitín
@shiny I don't like my chances. Bluetooth dropout 10k's in. Dreading I try again and get a dropout 200m from the end..........
Buy a cheap home computer off scumtree and run it off that.
Plenty of local units running Windows 10 for under $100.
A dropout 200m from the end of the 4 horsemen would be enough to make me take a big hammer to the trainer.
 

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
It seriously pisses me off that there’s no corded options to connect to smart trainers. They’re not really all that convenient to move around, and Bluetooth dropouts are a pretty recurrent theme (I’ve had it happen too) - so why not just offer a USB cable option for those that want to setup a formal “pain-cave”?
 

ozzybmx

call me Cáitín
It seriously pisses me off that there’s no corded options to connect to smart trainers. They’re not really all that convenient to move around, and Bluetooth dropouts are a pretty recurrent theme (I’ve had it happen too) - so why not just offer a USB cable option for those that want to setup a formal “pain-cave”?
Mine works really well, it's the same Saris H3 as @rockmoose.
I've never had a dropout using the Bluetooth dongle but every time I start zwift, it connects everything through the ANT+ dongle and its shit. It's actually unridable using ANT+.
I have to click on the pairing screen and select bluetooth for everything apart from the HRM, not really a big deal.

Yeah definitely agree the hard wired option would save any of this nonsense.
 

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Mine works really well, it's the same Saris H3 as @rockmoose.
I've never had a dropout using the Bluetooth dongle but every time I start zwift, it connects everything through the ANT+ dongle and its shit. It's actually unridable using ANT+.
I have to click on the pairing screen and select bluetooth for everything apart from the HRM, not really a big deal.

Yeah definitely agree the hard wired option would save any of this nonsense.
I have a Wahoo Kickr, and generally get the opposite. Normal Bluetooth drops out after riding for a bit, or loses that cadence sensor and just guesstimates from the trainer. An Ant+ dongle got everything sorted, but then the dongle died so it’s back to five minutes of cadence and then just powermeter and resistance via the trainer. It’s a PITA…
 

rockmoose

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Do you want a new ANT+ dongle ?

I have a spare here.
I hadn't thought of the possibility that the dongle was a dud..........

Do you want to give it a test run on your setup? Then we can also test the other one.

If it is a dud, I vote number 1 gets it for Christmas.
 

ozzybmx

call me Cáitín
Both my ANT+ and Bluetooth 4.0 dongles are right in front of the trainer.

I cannot run the trainer on ANT+ alone, repeatedly loses signal and I end up pushing massive watts and my zwift avatar has stopped on the road.

382315
 

ozzybmx

call me Cáitín
I hadn't thought of the possibility that the dongle was a dud..........

Do you want to give it a test run on your setup? Then we can also test the other one.

If it is a dud, I vote number 1 gets it for Christmas.
We can do a swap and try but it doesn't work for me alone, I only use it for the HRM.

Also worth a mention is the old bluetooth built into the computer was too old, the new BT 4.0 works a treat.
 

ozzybmx

call me Cáitín
Interesting, it might be my dongles are not powerful enough o_O


To be clear, not all ANT+ signals are created the same. Some meters, some trainers and some head units are near flawless. It’s just my experience that Bluetooth is generally better at keeping a steady power signal.

So what to do?
My advice is simple: use Bluetooth any time you’re riding indoors. When considering buying a new gadget, go for something with ANT+ and Bluetooth. You won’t regret having options.

EDIT: More info.

MORE CAUSES OF ANT+ DROPOUTS
OTHER COMPUTER PROGRAMS
Only one program on your computer can “own” your ANT+ dongle at any given time, so make sure you aren’t running any programs that use ANT+ dongles. The most common culprit here is Garmin’s software, “Garmin Express”.

USB PORT SETTINGS
The vast majority of USB ports will work just fine for your ANT+ dongle, but there are potential issues here:

  • Power saving: especially prevalent on laptops, this turns off or reduces power to your USB ports and can cause problems.
  • USB version: make sure your ports are version 2.0 or higher, as USB version 1 will not work with Zwift. If possible use a USB 3.0 port.
  • Adequate power: some computers only send 100mA of current to certain USB ports, and you need at least 500mA. Purchasing a powered USB hub or switching to a higher-powered port on the computer can fix this. I use and recommend this Sabrent 4-port hub, but any powered USB hub will do!
 
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Plankosaurus

Spongeplank Dalepants
Well...... 3hr 16min, just coming out of my speedtuck down Alpe de Zwift. Just had to switch onto the mtb, and cruise back into town to collect my Four Horsemen badge, and the sweet sweet 1960xp............

DROP OUT
Jeebuz

I'd need to mentally prep myself for that one, and I think it's the next shortest one on the badge list now

Sent from my H8324 using Tapatalk
 

rockmoose

Likes Bikes and Dirt
I used to get a few dropouts years ago when using a laptop and an ANT+ dongle. I've since changed to an Apple TV 4K setup... no dropouts...runs like a dream.
That is the only setup that should be used. Sarah from Everything Is Photogenic has discussed it on a number of occasions, that zwift is shooting itself in the foot trying to make such a heavy program run on so many platforms.
One day I'd like to have a setup like that in my loungeroom, next to my bouldering wall. But that's where my tractor lives at the moment.
 

FatMuz

Likes Dirt
That is the only setup that should be used. Sarah from Everything Is Photogenic has discussed it on a number of occasions, that zwift is shooting itself in the foot trying to make such a heavy program run on so many platforms.
One day I'd like to have a setup like that in my loungeroom, next to my bouldering wall. But that's where my tractor lives at the moment.
Well, I don't know why more don't use this setup...it's by far the cheapest setup. The Apple remote is a PITA but still workable.
 
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