BIKE RACKS AND CARRIERS FOR CARS MEGATHREAD - all questions asked and answered here

disappearin

Likes Dirt
Used my rack for the first time to drive 800kms each way to the 24hr solo nationals. Worked perfectly with 2 bikes on it. I am very happy with it.
It so simple to put bikes or the whole rack on and off compared to my old rack.
 
Hey,

I've had this rack [three version] for over a year now. I resisted buying one for quite some time due to some of the concerns mentioned already in this post however i'm kicking myself for not doing it earlier.
The top tube on all my bikes are scratched due to the old rack I had which I could have avoided. Now they are perfectly safe. I drove from Sydney to Byron Bay at Christmas with three bikes and the trip was fine. No issues with the rack at all. No clearance problems [at least on a Subaru Forester]. I have no idea why I would spend over 4 times as much on a Thule rack . . . . . . .

There are only two things I can complain about and both are really, really minor; one is laughable really.

1. The spacing of the screw holes for the number plate are such that the number plate I have cannot be centered on the light board [lol].
2. If you forget to tie back the straps on the rails, they come out reasonably easy. Torpedo 7 does not sell spares for these so if you do loose them [I've lost one] you need to replace with others which are not like the originals.

One thing, make sure to periodically check the screws that tighten the 'arms', especially after a really long trip. After our Christmas trip one of the 'arms' was quite loose. I guess all the vibration of the trip loosened the screws.

Enjoy the rack, for its price I don't think there is anything comparable - and no I don't have shares or work for Torpedo 7.

Exx
 

toofar22

Likes Dirt
I have one of these for my Accord Euro (3 bike version). It works well but I've only ever had two bikes on it. Not sure how three would fit? Be a wee bit close I reckon.

This is how it fits my car (see pics). Would definitely recommend.
 

Attachments

Newie

Likes Dirt
I have this rack in the 3 and the 4 bicycle hold version. I sold the 3 rack to my mate who has had no problems with it and I use the 4 rack
for my family now that the kids are old enough for family rides. We have did trips up to 1000km from home at 100km on highways no problems.
I have 2 tow ball Hayman Reece mounts so I leave one permanently attached and just switch them out as required on the back of my car.

My friend is quite handy with a welder and made some modifications to 3 mount for strength and side wobble not that it really needed it but he is
over protective of his pride and joys. There is some side wobble but nothing to worry about or that can't be fixed to easily.
When the kids get heavier bikes I might get my friend to permanently connect it to the spare mount and through some extra welds on it.
Used bikes from 20, 24, 26 and 29 sizes successfully.

Very happy with it no problems experienced this end.
 

lindz1817

Likes Dirt
Just ordered one of these racks because i'm sick of screwing around with my rack that hangs the bikes from the top tubes (takes forever to tie them down to avoid damage, and even then it's no guarantee). Looking forward to getting it, i'll post initial impressions here after the first couple of uses.
 

Flannie

Likes Bikes
I'm currently looking into these racks.
They get great reviews.

http://www.isi-carriers.com/index.html
I've got the 4x4 rack on my Forester and its great. Great departure angle clearance so you never have to worry about scraping it, all the weight is held in the wheels and the arm just holds it upright. No marks at all on carbon frame XC bike, and its build solid enough for 2 x DH bikes plus it pivots down for access.

two thumbs up
 
It is better to hold the frame than a wheel...
Whilst that may be the case my carbon frame does not like it one bit. The contact point is where the front derailleur and seat post cables go and causes some pretty decent paint rub.

I have resorted to frame skins to stop that from happening.
 

hifiandmtb

Sphincter beanie
Having just spent a week with multiple bikes on an ISI carrier I can massively rate that product.

Holds the bikes so securely, extremely easy to get them off & on, very adjustable to keep the bikes from eating each other.

Brilliant product.
 

Ugh

Likes Bikes
The ISI racks are excellently engineered and dealing with George is a joy. Get one.
 

Sumodog

Squid
Why is that?

I made my last rack so it held the wheels without any stability or other issues. I'd prefer not to clamp down or onto thin metal or carbon tubes.
Frame is not clamped - it is only held in upright position. Reason for not holding the wheels is that vibration is transferred onto wheel bearings in a way they are not designed to handle.
 

retroenduro

Likes Dirt
Frame is not clamped - it is only held in upright position. Reason for not holding the wheels is that vibration is transferred onto wheel bearings in a way they are not designed to handle.
Sorry but i call BS....if thats the case we should not be riding our bikes on rough trails, roosting through corners or boosting off kickers otherwise we might damage the wheel bearings with these scary lateral loads.....we should always ride in a straight line on tarmac......like road riders :eek:P
 

Yet1

Likes Dirt
Having just spent a week with multiple bikes on an ISI carrier I can massively rate that product.

Holds the bikes so securely, extremely easy to get them off & on, very adjustable to keep the bikes from eating each other.

Brilliant product.
I have one of the ISI racks also - couldnt be happier. I did almost 10,000km of driving over Christmas (including a lot of 4x4 driving and many k's of corregated dirt roads) with a carbon Yeti and my Titanium road bike on the rack. Apart from getting some dust on the bikes - there was not a scratch on them. The 'clamp' is only putting minor pressure on the frame, just holding it on the rack. There are no issues with scuffing either with this setup. Also, very easy to load/unload bikes and easy to set the rack up on the reese hitch that i have it set up with. Reccomended!
 

Sumodog

Squid
Sorry but i call BS....if thats the case we should not be riding our bikes on rough trails, roosting through corners or boosting off kickers otherwise we might damage the wheel bearings with these scary lateral loads.....we should always ride in a straight line on tarmac......like road riders :eek:P
I never mentioned lateral loads - when you are riding your bike vibration is distributed through wheels ,bearings and frame . Now imagine holding the wheel down while applying vibration to bearing through a frame and bike rack.
 

retroenduro

Likes Dirt
I never mentioned lateral loads - when you are riding your bike vibration is distributed through wheels ,bearings and frame . Now imagine holding the wheel down while applying vibration to bearing through a frame and bike rack.
???? eh??? not sure i understand what you mean.... :noidea: do you mean like a lever? Thing is though the bike isnt loaded with bodywieght so those loads will be so small anyway. MTBstuff is designed to cope with far higher stresses....i hope so cant really see this as being an issue but each to thier own....
 

Sumodog

Squid
When the vehicle is in motion shock from the road is transmitted up
to the roof rack. When a bicycle is clamped by the fork, into a
fork mount, the fork and headset are held rigidly in place. As the
vehicle goes down the road the headset will be constantly absorbing
small shocks. This would not be a problem if the headset were also
turning, because the lubricant inside would be distributed by the
rolling of the bearings. But the headset is not turning and
therein lies the problem.

From:

http://draco.acs.uci.edu/rbfaq/FAQ/128.html

"The damage occurs when these small motions occur when there are no
steering motions to replenish lubricant while the bearing balls
fret in place. Fretting breaks down the lubricant film on which
the balls normally roll and without which they weld to the races
and tear out tiny particles." This was written by Jobst Brandt.

However, it is the small vibrations, smaller than the Hetzian contact
patch between ball and race that cause fretting damage. "Rolling
Bearing Analysis" by Tedric Harris (SKF) explains this in fine detail:

http://tinyurl.com/y38had

On upright mounts the wheels are absorbing the shock from the road
but on fork mounts the shock is being absorbed by the headset
though it is unknown how much extra wear occurs because of
fretting.

It's not the shock, but small vibrations that damage the bearings.
You can pond on the tires with a hammer all you want and not cause a
fretting dimple. This has been discussed here at great length.

For CF, the forks are so susceptible to damage you don't want to be
holding the bike by them.




There is lots written about this ....
 
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