BIKE RACKS AND CARRIERS FOR CARS MEGATHREAD - all questions asked and answered here

Hi folks, new car, new racks.

Got a Suzuki GV (on with the spare wheel on the back) looking at options for bike racks. New to this style of boot so trying to figure out what works. I have tossed up something like the spare wheel rack but decided against as I have an existing top tube rack and it's not ideal for dually front triangles. Also moves a fair bit.

*Edit: I also have another car which may use the rack occasionally which uses a normal vertical tailgate so that might factor into the decision.

That pretty much leaves hitch or towball mounts. I like towball mounts but they can't beat hitch mounts for stiffness. Something like a used gripsort rack or yakima twotimer/ holdup2 would work. Questions about these:
- Do I need to buy a long adaptor to clear the spare tyre?
- Fully folded down can I still fully open the swing arm door?
- Does anyone actually run their cars with the racks on all the time?
- Are there numberplate light bars that don't cost the earth as this is looking like a $1k affair which means other models start becoming viable
- Other recommendations.

Any of the vertical racks work well with the spare tyres on the back, clearance for side opening doors becomes the issue, you’ll only get an opening of about 300-400mm on our vertical tilted down - you might also need to look into a swing arm if you want to leave the rack on all the time.

I generally do leave a rack on all the time, have just changed vehicles from a Triton with a tray to an Amarok with a tub - I only kept a 2 or 3 (vertical) on the Triton as that didn’t impede the number plate or lights - I’m waiting on my auxiliary plate to come in but will probably keep a 4 on all the time with a light board hanging off it.

you can get light boards for ~$80 off trailer spares or places like RTM, Supercheap, etc… - I have found some of the cheaper ones have the wiring a little wrong in the plug but it’s an easy change over.
 
Any of the vertical racks work well with the spare tyres on the back, clearance for side opening doors becomes the issue, you’ll only get an opening of about 300-400mm on our vertical tilted down - you might also need to look into a swing arm if you want to leave the rack on all the time.

Yeah just looked at a few racks and thought clearance was an issue. Anyway, it turns out that most tow bar solutions simply sit below the bumper massively killing the departure angle. This means the car pretty much stops being any kind of mild offroader and is gonna get snagged aat every opportunity. The good news is because it's so low it will clear almost any rack that can be folded flat with the bikes off.

That leaves me a few options:
1. Go back to roof. Not gonna lie this car sucks on the highway with shitty old school gearing is thirsty for what it is. Bike on top is not gonna help and besides I've had my roof rack incidents already so keen to avoied this.
2. Do the tow bar which will be a $1.2k affair minimum. Pretty much kill any offroad aspirations and will have to stick to mild gravel roads only. Access to boot is still an issue with bikes on - not sure how much of a problem this will be in reality, maybe with kids it might be.
3. Spare tyre rack. https://www.yakima.com.au/products/activity/bike/bike-spare-tyre/spareride Seems to fix the problems above but in return it's a shitty top tube mount that looks like it doesn't have the best holding mechanisms. Even my current cheapie the thule xpress looks more stable than that. Look at the top straps, they suck. The thule one looks a little bit more secure (the straps is the bit I'm concerned about in the yakima) and also on sale here: https://www.bicyclestore.com.au/thule-spare-me-2-bike-tyre-rack-super-sale.html.


For the time being gonne use my existing roof racks, glad i didn't sell them, wish me luck not to hit shit.
 
Last edited:
Anyway, it turns out that most tow bar solutions simply sit below the bumper massively killing the departure angle. This means the car pretty much stops being any kind of mild offroader and is gonna get snagged aat every opportunity.

Thats what these were designed for. If we can make it across the Simpson Desert hundreds of times with these racks, you'll be right with some 'mild offroading'

BTW I have a SingleTrail 5 bike rack as well and use it often but my 11yr old ISI still gets used.

2013 SDBC photo.


2.JPG
 
Thats what these were designed for. If we can make it across the Simpson Desert hundreds of times with these racks, you'll be right with some 'mild offroading'

BTW I have a SingleTrail 5 bike rack as well and use it often but my 11yr old ISI still gets used.

2013 SDBC photo.


View attachment 401335
Did you steal @wkkie rims?
 
Thats what these were designed for. If we can make it across the Simpson Desert hundreds of times with these racks, you'll be right with some 'mild offroading'

I mean the actual tow bar itself. All the ones I've seen just run a bar below the bumper plate (no cutting) which means plus the extended hitch, I lose a lot of departure angle. The rack will help, when i compare it to other options, but the flipside is even with it folding down, I won't be able to access the horizontal swing tailgate.

Also the wheel carrier is out as well, seems liek the hinges won't bear much extra load long term. I might have to try get a slimmer low load tow bar that uses a flat plate and tongue ony (not hitch then run a tow ball clamp carrier. Why is this so hard lol. Here is me thinking I have bought the wrong car!
 
Used my Yakima Holdup Evo today for the first time - solid rack. Two questions, though:

  • How do people feel about the security of Yakima carriers?
    • I wanted to leave my car at a trail head this arvo (cork forest, Arboretum for the CBRs), which is basically then end of a relatively quiet dirt road. I wasn't keen on leaving my shiny new rack there with the kind of security the racks come with - some kind of lockable bolt that fits to the hitch would be more convincing.
  • Anyone built a light board for a flat plug?
    • Would be awesome if anyone had any guides or designs!
 
Used my Yakima Holdup Evo today for the first time - solid rack. Two questions, though:
  • How do people feel about the security of Yakima carriers?
    • I wanted to leave my car at a trail head this arvo (cork forest, Arboretum for the CBRs), which is basically then end of a relatively quiet dirt road. I wasn't keen on leaving my shiny new rack there with the kind of security the racks come with - some kind of lockable bolt that fits to the hitch would be more convincing.
  • Anyone built a light board for a flat plug?
    • Would be awesome if anyone had any guides or designs!

What sort of lock does it come with? I have a fourtimer and I didnt think the hitch bolt and lock that goes over the end is that bad, unless you forget to lock it then drive off and lose it :rolleyes: . But if they really want to steal it there is nothing stopping you unbolting the pivot bolt and taking the rest of the carrier, so I guess safe for honest thieves only really.

Light board, I don't remember paying that much for it but I bought one of these and cut it down to size.
 
What sort of lock does it come with? I have a fourtimer and I didnt think the hitch bolt and lock that goes over the end is that bad, unless you forget to lock it then drive off and lose it :rolleyes: . But if they really want to steal it there is nothing stopping you unbolting the pivot bolt and taking the rest of the carrier, so I guess safe for honest thieves only really.

Light board, I don't remember paying that much for it but I bought one of these and cut it down to size.
This youtube vid below shows the lock mech - it's a knob that you turn to to expand the hitch insert to ensure that there's no wobble and it's snug in the hitch. Once you tighten that up you you turn a key and the knob spins freely (the mech inside the knob that tuns the bolt disengages. It has some torque screws on the back of the knob and I'm betting that if you removed them you could work around the lock. I Think that if I park the car somewhere that doesn't have a lot of people around, I'll take the time to unhitch it and put it in the boot.


Thanks for the tip on the light board, will check it out.
 
Last edited:
Used my Yakima Holdup Evo today for the first time - solid rack. Two questions, though:

  • How do people feel about the security of Yakima carriers?
    • I wanted to leave my car at a trail head this arvo (cork forest, Arboretum for the CBRs), which is basically then end of a relatively quiet dirt road. I wasn't keen on leaving my shiny new rack there with the kind of security the racks come with - some kind of lockable bolt that fits to the hitch would be more convincing.
  • Anyone built a light board for a flat plug?
    • Would be awesome if anyone had any guides or designs!
I made up my own lights and numberplate holder for the grip rack but just did as @ausdb says and bought a complete trailer lightboard. Just get it with a flat plug or swap for one. I also made up an led light on a long lead to throw on the kayaks when they are on the box trailer.
 
This youtube vid below shows the lock mech - it's a knob that you turn to to expand the hitch insert to ensure that there's no wobble and it's snug in the hitch. Once you tighten that up you you turn a key and the knob spins freely (the mech inside the knob that tuns the bolt disengages. It has some torque screws on the back of the knob and I'm betting that if you removed them you could work around the lock. I Think that if I park the car somewhere that doesn't have a lot of people around, I'll take the time to unhitch it and put it in the boot.

Thanks for the tip on the light board, will check it out.
I get what you mean now, the Fourtimer is just a bolt with the lock that goes through where the normal receiver pin fits. From the video it may be possible to through drill it for a pin but you would have to machine the threads off the bolt to turn it into a pin.
Bolt is cheap
Lock not so much :(

On the light board I was going to DIY but after seeing the price of LED trailer lights, factoring in some cable and a plug CBF (not the Canfield Balance Formula type) kicked into high gear and it was easier to trim down the premade one.
 
I get what you mean now, the Fourtimer is just a bolt with the lock that goes through where the normal receiver pin fits. From the video it may be possible to through drill it for a pin but you would have to machine the threads off the bolt to turn it into a pin.
Bolt is cheap
Lock not so much :(

On the light board I was going to DIY but after seeing the price of LED trailer lights, factoring in some cable and a plug CBF (not the Canfield Balance Formula type) kicked into high gear and it was easier to trim down the premade one.
Not sure that the through-bolt would work - I think the long threaded shaft, which pulls the wedge into place locking the carrier into the hitch might get in the way. Will have to have a close look on the weekend to see what is possible.

I think I'll be doing the same regards the light board. I only have a relatively simple workshop - doing the electricals is fine, but totally fabricating my own board from scratch is more trouble than it's worth for me.

If you have any pics of what you did in terms of mods and how you ended up fixing it to the rack, I'd love to see them.
 
Yeah just looked at a few racks and thought clearance was an issue. Anyway, it turns out that most tow bar solutions simply sit below the bumper massively killing the departure angle. This means the car pretty much stops being any kind of mild offroader and is gonna get snagged aat every opportunity. The good news is because it's so low it will clear almost any rack that can be folded flat with the bikes off.

That leaves me a few options:
1. Go back to roof. Not gonna lie this car sucks on the highway with shitty old school gearing is thirsty for what it is. Bike on top is not gonna help and besides I've had my roof rack incidents already so keen to avoied this.
2. Do the tow bar which will be a $1.2k affair minimum. Pretty much kill any offroad aspirations and will have to stick to mild gravel roads only. Access to boot is still an issue with bikes on - not sure how much of a problem this will be in reality, maybe with kids it might be.
3. Spare tyre rack. https://www.yakima.com.au/products/activity/bike/bike-spare-tyre/spareride Seems to fix the problems above but in return it's a shitty top tube mount that looks like it doesn't have the best holding mechanisms. Even my current cheapie the thule xpress looks more stable than that. Look at the top straps, they suck. The thule one looks a little bit more secure (the straps is the bit I'm concerned about in the yakima) and also on sale here: https://www.bicyclestore.com.au/thule-spare-me-2-bike-tyre-rack-super-sale.html.


For the time being gonne use my existing roof racks, glad i didn't sell them, wish me luck not to hit shit.

4. Cheap 6x4 trailer with channel racks...?
 
Not sure that the through-bolt would work - I think the long threaded shaft, which pulls the wedge into place locking the carrier into the hitch might get in the way. Will have to have a close look on the weekend to see what is possible.

I think I'll be doing the same regards the light board. I only have a relatively simple workshop - doing the electricals is fine, but totally fabricating my own board from scratch is more trouble than it's worth for me.

If you have any pics of what you did in terms of mods and how you ended up fixing it to the rack, I'd love to see them.
Cable ties...
 
On the light board I was going to DIY but after seeing the price of LED trailer lights, factoring in some cable and a plug CBF (not the Canfield Balance Formula type) kicked into high gear and it was easier to trim down the premade one.

Looked at this one, only $15 more than the Supersheap one and seemingly ready to go:

But apparently not. Like other Yakima prods, it's setup for the US market, meaning that for the blinkers to the on the correct side the board needs to be upside down (based on sticker placement, no idea why this is so), and the number plat section is set up for full-sized plates. According to reviews, this means that you have to mod the board to fit a smaller bike carrier plate and that the lights for the number plate don't actually light the plate up properly.

@ausdb did you install a light for the number plate on your modded system?
 
"Webbing straps": have to have done a particular kind of job to know what they are. It's 23 years since I last wore webbing.
Dog collar? S & M? I used it to move the new bath in and out for test fitting and final installation. 65 bloody kg.
 
Cam straps work well for attaching light boards - the ones we get in have them with them but you can get the heavier duty metal cam versions from bunnings cheap enough - the only thing to be aware of with the LED’s is that numerous newer vehicles have blown bulb indicators that the LED’s trip - on some it’s just a light that comes on the dash, on others it flickers the light board - you might need to install a resistor box or use incandescent if that’s an issue - if you go the incandescent route it’s cheaper to buy the large 7 pin round type off eBay and change the plug the flat yourself.
 
Back
Top