Confessions from the fuckwits

Back here again…..excitedly unpacked my new XT 165mm cranks and SLX chainring to assemble/install. I’m usually a bit smug about having the right special tool for things but the bushidos got me with the lock ring🤦🏻 my el cheapo unShimano BB tool wont fit over the BB axle. Now contemplating trying to find one in Bunbury or matching the 1/2” socket drive hole out to 24 and a wee bit mm. Haven’t checked if there’s enough material to actually do that yet though.
 
Back here again…..excitedly unpacked my new XT 165mm cranks and SLX chainring to assemble/install. I’m usually a bit smug about having the right special tool for things but the bushidos got me with the lock ring🤦🏻 my el cheapo unShimano BB tool wont fit over the BB axle. Now contemplating trying to find one in Bunbury or matching the 1/2” socket drive hole out to 24 and a wee bit mm. Haven’t checked if there’s enough material to actually do that yet though.

Just send all those dooodads back and get hooked up with some crispy saint cranks that will make your old tools feel useful again. Say no to new standards!
 
Back here again…..excitedly unpacked my new XT 165mm cranks and SLX chainring to assemble/install. I’m usually a bit smug about having the right special tool for things but the bushidos got me with the lock ring🤦🏻 my el cheapo unShimano BB tool wont fit over the BB axle. Now contemplating trying to find one in Bunbury or matching the 1/2” socket drive hole out to 24 and a wee bit mm. Haven’t checked if there’s enough material to actually do that yet though.

Years ago, the same thing happened to me. I then ground off the inside knob that was protruding and stopping me locate the 16 notch on the BB teeth.

If you have one of those cheap stamped BB spanners about, it will do the job. They used to come in cheap tool kits... BBB, cleanskin etc

I bought one of these tools recently to remove the top caps on my Dorado as the air vale extends further out that the old ground off tool allowed. Decent quality and a Parktool rip off.


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If you have one of those cheap stamped BB spanners about, it will do the job. They used to come in cheap tool kits... BBB, cleanskin etc
It needs about 5mm of offset as the lock ring is recessed from the inner face of the chain ring. I rang the LBS to see what they had in stock, they didn’t have any but offered to do it up for me so I bought a new SLX chain while I was there.
 
Been battling inconsistent shifting in the Banshee ever since I got it.

Tried changing cables, checking the cable was not getting pinched where its funky routing flexes over the BB shell etc.

In the end conceded my days of running a SRAMano hybrid setup were over.

Thought I'd finally dip my toes into AXS, and picked up an upgrade kit for a pretty good deal.

First thing I do is check the derailleur hanger is straight. Well it was off by over 5mm on one end.

I reckon that was the problem all along. Naive me assumed being a brand new frame and hanger it would have been straight, so I skipped the usual check during the rush of building up the new bike at the time..

n00b.
 
I
Been battling inconsistent shifting in the Banshee ever since I got it.

Tried changing cables, checking the cable was not getting pinched where its funky routing flexes over the BB shell etc.

In the end conceded my days of running a SRAMano hybrid setup were over.

Thought I'd finally dip my toes into AXS, and picked up an upgrade kit for a pretty good deal.

First thing I do is check the derailleur hanger is straight. Well it was off by over 5mm on one end.

I reckon that was the problem all along. Naive me assumed being a brand new frame and hanger it would have been straight, so I skipped the usual check during the rush of building up the new bike at the time..

n00b.
It's surprising how many people overlook this. Those hanger alignment tools pay for themselves pretty quickly with not buying other bits IMO.
 
I would have thought you were pretty safe with the Banshee @teK-- given that the hanger comes in a box and bolts on to the drop out - I didn't bother to check mine when I built up my titan. Glad you got it sorted though.
 
I would have thought you were pretty safe with the Banshee @teK-- given that the hanger comes in a box and bolts on to the drop out - I didn't bother to check mine when I built up my titan. Glad you got it sorted though.
Yeah I was thinking the same as you too; that's why I skipped the usual check.

I suppose an over buildup of clear coat on the frame or something and that's all it takes to put brand new parts out of alignment enough to affect shifting.
 
Impromptu visit to Mill Creek this morning.

Dumb thing number one - leave too late and get there in the middle of the day. As Noel Coward would say, Mad dogs, Englishmen and one farken idiot FG out in the midday sun - it was bloody hot 🥵

Dumb thing number two - helmet, check, shoes, check, knee pads, check, hmm, where are the shorts, socks and jersey that I grabbed on the way out? Text missus - oh here they are by the front door 🤪

Seems you can ride in trusty training shorts, no socks and plain t-shirt - who needs expensive bike gear? 🤣
 
Got a text from 'the ato'. Your bas is due. Nope not me, not trading. Text the week after, same number. You owe $ by date. I replied, fuck off. Two weeks later, you failed to pay $, pay by date or risk penalties of $. Reported the number as spam. Accountant calls a couple of days later. Did you get notification to pay $ for estimated bas? Maybe.
 
Father, it's been a while since my last confession.

On Friday, I went to install new brake pads in the Stumpy ready for the "Railton Express" XC race on Saturday.
Had a bit of trouble getting the pistons to stay fully retracted to fit the new pads, so I had them in and out a few times. Anyway, I got them in without any disk rubbing, bedded them in on the street out the front of my place and all was good for tomorrow's race.

Race day and I set off in a good position in C grade and settled in for the 40km loop. Halfway around on a loose descent I could hear a grinding noise coming from the rear of my bike. I pulled up at the bottom and found that one of my brake pads had started working its way down between the calliper and the disk, but the retention pin was still in place. I worked out, that somehow, I managed to install the pads too far down in the calliper and the retention pin was on top of the pads. No idea how they stayed in there so long, but I had to fix it trail side, and I then found out that the two multitools that I carry both don't have an Allen key small enough to fit the retention pin. I then realised that all I could do is remove the rear wheel, get the pads out and stick them in my pocket and continue the race with no rear brakes. So that's what I did.

Had a couple of sketchy moments trying to pull up on the front brakes alone but it wasn't too bad. The hardest thing was fighting the muscle memory to not pull the rear brakes on. Lost about 7min and one definite position and another one to two possible positions to the couple that I was riding with before the issue.

Lesson: Need my old man's glasses when working on the bike from now on.
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@Stredda needs a new multi tool as well...



Been a long stretch between days off and a huge pile of laundry has amassed. I get home last night intending to do a load of uniforms and sleep so I can get up early today ans live on my one day off. No laundry powder. I even came home via the supermarket to buy milk.
 
Father, it's been a while since my last confession.

On Friday, I went to install new brake pads in the Stumpy ready for the "Railton Express" XC race on Saturday.
Had a bit of trouble getting the pistons to stay fully retracted to fit the new pads, so I had them in and out a few times. Anyway, I got them in without any disk rubbing, bedded them in on the street out the front of my place and all was good for tomorrow's race.

Race day and I set off in a good position in C grade and settled in for the 40km loop. Halfway around on a loose descent I could hear a grinding noise coming from the rear of my bike. I pulled up at the bottom and found that one of my brake pads had started working its way down between the calliper and the disk, but the retention pin was still in place. I worked out, that somehow, I managed to install the pads too far down in the calliper and the retention pin was on top of the pads. No idea how they stayed in there so long, but I had to fix it trail side, and I then found out that the two multitools that I carry both don't have an Allen key small enough to fit the retention pin. I then realised that all I could do is remove the rear wheel, get the pads out and stick them in my pocket and continue the race with no rear brakes. So that's what I did.

Had a couple of sketchy moments trying to pull up on the front brakes alone but it wasn't too bad. The hardest thing was fighting the muscle memory to not pull the rear brakes on. Lost about 7min and one definite position and another one to two possible positions to the couple that I was riding with before the issue.

Lesson: Need my old man's glasses when working on the bike from now on.
View attachment 413492View attachment 413493
Top left piston in that photo looks like it's coming out on an angle. Or is that just a trick of the light?
Multi-tool without a 2/2.5/3mm Allen key? Off to the Black Friday Sales you go...
 
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