Confessions from the fuckwits

As per my bargain buys post, I received my light last night and looking at YouTube it’s a 5 minute install, um nope. It says to take out the rubber port and fish around near the the head tube for the plug, pull it out and plug it in and you’re done, um nope. Couldn’t find the plug, pull out the port from the other side and fished around from there, still no luck, okay let’s take shit apart and go from there. So I pull out the lock that holds the battery in place and find the wire, no way was I going to find that, plug everything in then try to fit the lock back into place, for some reason it wasn’t going into after a bit of screwing around I get it into place. Okay time to see how bright this thing is, um WTF no power, not just to the light but the whole bike, mmmmm I think I know what happened, pull at the wire from power switch and yep it’s come apart slightly. Okay now gently pull the wire so it doesn’t jam in the frame and come out completely, um nope, time to pull it apart again and plug it back in, this time I tested it before putting it back together and it works. This everything goes back together easily and smoothly even works when I turned it back on, now I have to charge the bike, my taillight and the bikes power button has the light switch built in already.

TLDR: I hate staged YouTube videos, not a two minute job, especially when you accidentally disconnect the power then have to pull it apart and do it again, yet again making small jobs hard.
 
It's been a while, but a decent confession to make this evening.

For those of you who followed by Ali Gravel Dropbar Build, one of my biggest issues with the LTWOO GRT12 Groupset, was that the derailleur's last cable run around it's plastic pulley/guide wasn't captive like in every derailleur in recent history. This would manifest in the cable jumping off as the derailleur moved when I was in the harder gears and dropping off medium gutters, or popping it off waterbars (finally confident enough in the drops to do that silly stuff). Meaning immediate top gearing.

I'd inspected the area many times (MANY), with the plan to drill a hole through the plastic to put a cable tie through and keep it all captive.

Atfer a group gravel ride this weekend and a few more drops, I finally committed to drilling it. So, wheel out, chain off. head torch on in my not superbly lit shed at night. 1.5mm drill bit to start very small and work up, so that I didn't totally COFW and rip it apart.

Small hole done, success! Inspecting the angle of the pilot hole, all good. But wait, what's that bit of chaff caught up in... Right on the underside of the cable channel...

Fark... You gotta be kdding me...

Yep, there was a bridge on the guide the whole friggen time. Somehow I'd missed it during install, and during repeated musings. Did I mention how good the lighting is in the shed at night for underneath parts?

Heatshrink cable crimp off, cable undone, rethreaded through the channel UNDER the bridge this time, all nipped up. Thankfully the pilot hole was very small, so won't be an issue moving forward. Will fill with some superglue on a another night...

But still, yep, this is a worthy COFW...
 
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We're travelling to Japan this year and I thought I'd make an effort and learn some phrases.

I met my wife for lunch and we decided to get sushi/udon.

Enthusiastically I asked "Kōra futatsu onegaishimasu". The waitress looked blankly at me and replied "Sorry I don't speak Japanese, I'm Korean".

FFS....
 
Is it a confession if I had to admit defeat and go to LBS.

New idler and bearings for the bike. Current bearing pullers too small. Ordered correct size. Wait over Christmas break to be delivered. Design has 2 bearings one in idler cover and one in frame. Idler cover easy as. Frame. Nope wouldn’t budge. Messages to @ozzybmx as he has done this a few times and said come grab my slider hammer. Set up slide hammer and after several attempts much sweating and lower back starting to ache admit defeat.

Took to LBS and they said ya got to smash it. Soo I need hit the gym and get stronger to remove bearings. :p
 
oldcorollas said:
Korean does sound a bit like wobbly Japanese :)

maybe all you need is "Toriaezu, biiru de"?
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Hmmmm the accents sound similar but the words not so much. Eg. counting to 10

ich nee sun shi go rook shish uch ku ju
hana do set net tasu yasu ilgop yurdu ahop jul

I must confess trying to seriously answer dilemmas posed on the UTS Confessions Facebook page, gee now I'm doing it here!
 
shiny said:
Took my money and probably laughed as I left. Will ask @Jabubu for the kettle bell workout. ;)
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Sumo deadlifts 3 x 12
Kettlebell swings 3 x 12
Single arm overhead press 3 x 12
Goblet squats 3 x 12
Kettlebell halos 3 x 12
Incline kettlebell press 3 x 12

After six months maybe you'll be able to remove those bearings :)
 
Was kitting up at the trailhead for a ride and thought wtf is that stink?

Turns out when I unloaded the bike and sat it upside down on the grass, the saddle squashed a nice fat gooey dogshit.

To add insult to injury, i had grabbed bike by the saddle to flip it the right way up, and the shit was all over my gloves too.
 
Ok, being a total fuckwit I decided to convert said bike to tubeless, unfortunately I didn't check valves. Bought kit to convert rims but turns out the wheels are shrader. Yes I should of checked.

Now you know I'm a fuckwit I need a solution so I can fix it today.

The tubes I have do have the little lockring on the valve stem on the outside.
Could I cut the valve out of the tube and glue them to the tubeless tape. Please save me
 
safreek said:
Ok, being a total fuckwit I decided to convert said bike to tubeless, unfortunately I didn't check valves. Bought kit to convert rims but turns out the wheels are shrader. Yes I should of checked.

Now you know I'm a fuckwit I need a solution so I can fix it today.

The tubes I have do have the little lockring on the valve stem on the outside.
Could I cut the valve out of the tube and glue them to the tubeless tape. Please save me
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YMMV but, I have used presta tube valves as tubeless valves by cutting them out of the tube (leave around 1cm of tube rubber around the valve.

It wasn't a permanent fix so you will need to get some schrader tubeless valves eventually, but it did hold air for a little while. Eventually the rubber comes away from the valve stem, just don't over tighten the lock nut.
 
I have a suggestion that may work for you, go to an auto shop and buy a Shrader valve kit.


Alternatively butcher your old tunes. Make sure you tape down the flaps real good.
 
safreek said:
Ok, being a total fuckwit I decided to convert said bike to tubeless, unfortunately I didn't check valves. Bought kit to convert rims but turns out the wheels are shrader. Yes I should of checked.

Now you know I'm a fuckwit I need a solution so I can fix it today.

The tubes I have do have the little lockring on the valve stem on the outside.
Could I cut the valve out of the tube and glue them to the tubeless tape. Please save me
Click to expand...
I’ve done that and its worked fine. Didn’t bother gluing them to the tubeless tape, just snugged them down and it was ok.
 
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