Confessions from the fuckwits

link1896

link1896

Mr Greenfield
very easy to check the accuracy of your torque wrench. great wiki here


before doing anything critical (engine building, clamping carbon, etc) I always calibrate.
 
pharmaboy

pharmaboy

Eats Squid
Torque is also only correct if the threads are greased - must admit, I stopped using mine, I torque to the minimum required to hold something , you get a pretty good feel with a simple Allen wrench and realising that the size of the Allen bolt tells you the approximate torque of the bolt anyway
 
moorey

moorey

call me Mia
pharmaboy said:
Torque is also only correct if the threads are greased - must admit, I stopped using mine, I torque to the minimum required to hold something , you get a pretty good feel with a simple Allen wrench and realising that the size of the Allen bolt tells you the approximate torque of the bolt anyway
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This. ^
Its becoming a nanny state, with cotton wool bikes and helicopter owners. I'm aginnit, I tells ya :hand:
 
Ackland

Ackland

chats d'élevage
schred said:
I also think the split clamp design of the F109 stem may have contributed to the ease with which the bar was compressed, & I did notice the bar was a very snug fit in the stem side, it almost had to be snapped in place.
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The bar always fits snugly into the stem side of a Syntace stem, that's how they're designed and it's really useful in making sure your bar position is right before you snug up the bolts.

Did you equally tension all 4 face plate bolts or snug one side up against the stem?

Sounds like your torque wrench does have issues as Easton Carbon is usually fantastic
 
S

schred

Likes Bikes and Dirt
I thought I was pretty careful with all 4 bolts being equal too, the death crosses were approx midpoint on the face plates which support that, but TBH I didnt recheck when I noticed the marks, I was too busy disassembling with many WTF going through my head.

Still gutted about the whole thing - Idid my best and totally fcked it. At least if I ignorantly fcked it I'd have an excuse. What's worse, I have 3 torque wrenches I use on other things, and this is the first time I have ever used a torque wrench on a bicycle. Coincidental? Nice link to calibrating the wrenches BTW, I'll take a looksy.

Should I bother trying with carbon again? I might stick with alloy, Giant OEM in fact, fark.
 
S

schred

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Ha good pickup, in my mind nothing is less than 5nm.

It's this one
https://www.kincrome.com.au/product/MTW200I/micrometer-torque-wrench-1~4-square-drve

"Features:
• Dual scale torque wrench 17.7 - 212.4 Inch-LB, 2.0 - 24.0 Nm"

So 4nm is def on the low side of the range, although it does take a few revs of the handle with some resistance to get the desired setting, so I was comforted by the thought the device was doing some work before putting it to use.
 
stirk

stirk

Burner
Not a confession in the same league of some recent posts but,

The rear tyre got a puncture yesterday but I managed to limp home re inflating tyre every 3 kms so I could repair the inner tube in the comfort of home.

So I repaired the puncture with a stick on patch and re-inflated only to find 5 minutes later it's flat again. On inspection I find another hole near the original that was not there before (on the same side of the rim, not a snake bite pattern), and the patch I installed was broken into 3 pieces like it was mashed between the rim and tyre.


Oh well, I need to learn how to replace inner tubes properly!
 
WarbyD

WarbyD

Likes Dirt
stirk said:
Yeah, I didn't think of that being a reason to post here!

I fear if I try to go tubeless there would be many more entries from me....
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Do it. You will sit there afterwards and ask why you didn't do it previously. My first attempt at tubeless conversion (using a Joe's kit) took me less time than changing a tube.. seriously. Didnt even fuck it up!
 
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