It’s just no better than anywhere else in Australia. No worse either.
Of all the towns I’ve ridden a bike in Oz, Canberra is easily the most chilled. It’s not Northern Europe, but it’s pretty easy to make distance without even sharing space with a car.
I’m genuinely baffled by your ice addict, bogan filled experience of this place. It doesn’t have everything, but good cycling options are everywhere as far as I can see.
Where else can you earn big-city wages and be in the countryside in twenty minutes?