hifiandmtb
Sphincter beanie
Enjoy a cheesy video to explain:
Mine is a machine Bunnings used to sell but no longer do...
Project Car / Motorbike thread. Let's see 'em.
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Mine is a machine Bunnings used to sell but no longer do...
SummitFever
Eats Squid
Nice.
Ultra Lord
Hurts. Requires Money. And is nerdy.
hifiandmtb
Sphincter beanie
Yeah, great! Got old mate A with the Nicolai visiting next weekend so I'll be ridin'.
Loftus if you want to join us - I can shoot you an SMS?
Loftus if you want to join us - I can shoot you an SMS?
Oddjob
Merry fucking Xmas to you assholes
Not sure if I mentioned this in the day thread but last weekend at the gymkhana there was a new Polo GTi, acquitted itself very well. Looked like fun. Needed better tyres though.
Cousin wanted to put a passenger seat back in his mini to take people who have never been in a car with him on tour laps at lunch etc during sprint meets. I grabbed the superceded seat out of the XR4 and put it in. It hits the roll cage so cant go back behind the drivers seat. Cant fit in front because it interferes with the driver and wont sit side by side because the door wont shut.
Cousin wanted to put a passenger seat back in his mini to take people who have never been in a car with him on tour laps at lunch etc during sprint meets. I grabbed the superceded seat out of the XR4 and put it in. It hits the roll cage so cant go back behind the drivers seat. Cant fit in front because it interferes with the driver and wont sit side by side because the door wont shut.
hifiandmtb
Sphincter beanie
It'll be organised. Thinking Sunday at this stage.
Not much time through the week however the dipstick has been fitted as has the Death Star.
The markings on the dipstick will need the level to be confirmed with a fill of oil. The US Ranger that the sump came from routes the dipstick up through the exhaust manifold. I wasn't really interested in doing that even though the headers will be wrapped so I did some bending and shaping and made a bracket that comes off the alternator to support the dipstick.
The Duratec engine has a specific coolant flow circuit and I wanted to keep that as stock as much as possible. There are reports of the guys who are transplanting these into Caterhams and the like having issues with cooling. A separate water rail is available to connect to the back of the head but we have plenty of room to keep the stock arrangement. There is a bypass hose to the head from the water pump which connects to the rear of the head and then a hose which runs to the water over oil cooler, thence to the heater core and then back to the same fitting on the head. We will just eliminate the heater portion of the piping (using an electric heater for a number of reasons but mostly because the heater bowl was sacrificed to create the revised firewall). Flow to and from the radiator as per stock arrangement. The outlet from the thermostat is teed and the second outlet goes to the expansion tank. Then breathers go to the expansion tank from the top of the radiator and the fitting at the back of the head (which will run along the rocker cover).
The XR4 expansion tank had no chance of fitting and the best option (and cheapest! $20!!) was an aftermarket VW tank fitted to Golfs, Jettas, Audis etc. The tank has the correct volume and pressure rating. Thankfully #2 has resisted the urge to fit polished aluminium tanks all over the engine bay!
The tank has been mounted on the right hand inner guard. The line to the thermostat falls 100mm which is good and the vents are higher than either breather outlet.
Some variants of the Duratec have an EGR which is also situated at the rear of the head and has water plumbing but in the XR4 this is blocked off!!!!
Dont worry, the radiator is just being held temporarily to position the tank... and the tank will get more bolts when I get it finally level and trim the top of the section along the guard. Welding on the inside is a bit shit, couldnt grind the gal off, it is good enough with the outside welded too.
The location and size of the expansion tank gives me room to put the washer bottle under the tank and run a remote filler to the front of the tank. Still have to select and fit a catch can and charcoal cannister. These will likely go on the firewall on the left hand side. Have to decide what to do with the carburettor bowl vents. These are plumbed back into the airbox on the bike and are really there just for fuel spillage when scraping knees. I am not sure I want to plumb it into the catch can so maybe two smaller filters.
The markings on the dipstick will need the level to be confirmed with a fill of oil. The US Ranger that the sump came from routes the dipstick up through the exhaust manifold. I wasn't really interested in doing that even though the headers will be wrapped so I did some bending and shaping and made a bracket that comes off the alternator to support the dipstick.
The Duratec engine has a specific coolant flow circuit and I wanted to keep that as stock as much as possible. There are reports of the guys who are transplanting these into Caterhams and the like having issues with cooling. A separate water rail is available to connect to the back of the head but we have plenty of room to keep the stock arrangement. There is a bypass hose to the head from the water pump which connects to the rear of the head and then a hose which runs to the water over oil cooler, thence to the heater core and then back to the same fitting on the head. We will just eliminate the heater portion of the piping (using an electric heater for a number of reasons but mostly because the heater bowl was sacrificed to create the revised firewall). Flow to and from the radiator as per stock arrangement. The outlet from the thermostat is teed and the second outlet goes to the expansion tank. Then breathers go to the expansion tank from the top of the radiator and the fitting at the back of the head (which will run along the rocker cover).
The XR4 expansion tank had no chance of fitting and the best option (and cheapest! $20!!) was an aftermarket VW tank fitted to Golfs, Jettas, Audis etc. The tank has the correct volume and pressure rating. Thankfully #2 has resisted the urge to fit polished aluminium tanks all over the engine bay!
The tank has been mounted on the right hand inner guard. The line to the thermostat falls 100mm which is good and the vents are higher than either breather outlet.
Some variants of the Duratec have an EGR which is also situated at the rear of the head and has water plumbing but in the XR4 this is blocked off!!!!
Dont worry, the radiator is just being held temporarily to position the tank... and the tank will get more bolts when I get it finally level and trim the top of the section along the guard. Welding on the inside is a bit shit, couldnt grind the gal off, it is good enough with the outside welded too.
The location and size of the expansion tank gives me room to put the washer bottle under the tank and run a remote filler to the front of the tank. Still have to select and fit a catch can and charcoal cannister. These will likely go on the firewall on the left hand side. Have to decide what to do with the carburettor bowl vents. These are plumbed back into the airbox on the bike and are really there just for fuel spillage when scraping knees. I am not sure I want to plumb it into the catch can so maybe two smaller filters.
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hifiandmtb
Sphincter beanie
I like the dipstick arrangement. And sweet - there's a little bit of Polo in your build 
The expansion tank has a low level alarm so that will be comnected too.I like the dipstick arrangement. And sweet - there's a little bit of Polo in your build
Bit of everything in this thing. The only Escort parts will be the bodyshell, doors, rear seats (recovered) and the fuel tank. Everything else is stolen from elsewhere. Spare XR4 has come in handy...
Ultra Lord
Hurts. Requires Money. And is nerdy.
Skimmed right the fuck over this msg aha! Sounds good. Sunday works well
hifiandmtb
Sphincter beanie
Mine works.
SummitFever
Eats Squid
Time to break out the stick welder. In the age of Mig and Tig I still use my stick welder for stuff like this. If I can't cleanup properly, I need the reach (sometimes with headers) or I'm welding in windy conditions out in the open I will use my BOC inverter stick welder. Technique is all important to get good results but the old school stick welder still has its place. Dirty hard to reach/clean gal is one of those places. Just don't breath the fumes.
I welded the other side and it was fine, I just had a few tacks on the inside which would have been enough and then somehow decided to run a weld on it. Covered in that horrible white misty shit and the nozzle filled with crap. You are right, stick will burn through better and I could have used MMA as I have a nice 10A inverter DC machine but didnt matter. Ok is good enough.
Haakon
has an accommodating arse
For some reason I decided to swish it out with some metho - pick up the water in hard to reach bits and flush it out. Theory was sound i think... Then left it in the sun to dry out.
Whereupon it’s basically shattered into a hundred bits!!! Super weird.
Cardy George
Piercing rural members since 1981
Yep, simultaneous physics AND if it ain't broke lessons
dP did you in.