Share your top 3 MTB tips

[ianganderton]

Eh? I always corner, outside foot down, inside knee on TT and weight the outside pedal to adjust grip.

Is this wrong?

Down is best as it puts the weight more over to the tyre contact point and increases grip

However if a rider is evenly weighting their pedals then outside forwards is best. This does tend to naturally mean that it becomes outside down as riders progress to moving their upper body when cornering

 

[oriion]

When selling your MTB:

1) Always post pictures.
2) Always designate the size of said MTB
3) Always put sold in your thread title after selling said MTB.

 

[pink poodle]

1) You're not spending enough
2) New season = new gear
3) Upgrade fool!

 

[link1896]

1. Carbon
2. Titanium
3. Eat properly

 

[John U]

1. N+1 is not really ideal. N+1 means you need to maintain N+1 bikes, you need to store N+1 bikes, and when the fucking standards change you have N+1 bikes which you can no longer get new parts for (at least without a whole lot of hassle). N+1 bikes is only ideal in the world of someone with unlimited funds/space/or someone who buys bikes just to look at them. Have less bikes and turn them over.
2. If you have multiple bikes do your utmost to ride them all on a semi-regular basis. $10,000 spent on a bike that gets the snot ridden out of it is a better investment than a $200 bike that is never ridden.
3a. The less downwards pressure their is on a tyre the less grip it has. Riding slowly down something technical and steep will put almost all of you braking on your front tyre. In this situation skidding the rear tyre does fuck all but dig up the trail.
3b. The more downward pressure a tyre has the more grip it will have. Get off your seat in the corners and try to keep the downward pressure on the tyres.

 

[rowdyflat]

1.Set up your bike right.
some people seem to have too much pressure in their tyres and too little in their shocks esp rear shock.
They often have the bike set up the same as they bought it esp females w handlebars too wide and seat not adjusted.
2.I agree w someone else stop and practice the hard bits you will get confidence that way= the bike can do it its just your fear stopping you.
3. Get back + off the seat for corners and steep down bits.

 

[schred]

1) May your mtb adventures be long, look after yourself no matter how ridiculous that sounds
2) Work on your bike as much as you can (be bothered) but remember almost everything on a bike can be completely fcked up. The only things that can't don't warrant fixing or already fcked up. With experience you may recognise when the fck up is commencing and make the choice to a) stop and step away from the bike b) go balls deep.
3) Double check any work performed on the bike the night before. Anything after 10pm is approaching twilight zone for possible CFTFW candidate and 11pm-1am is prime time.

 

[Koper25]

1. N+1 is not really ideal. N+1 means you need to maintain N+1 bikes, you need to store N+1 bikes, and when the fucking standards change you have N+1 bikes which you can no longer get new parts for (at least without a whole lot of hassle). N+1 bikes is only ideal in the world of someone with unlimited funds/space/or someone who buys bikes just to look at them. Have less bikes and turn them over.
2. If you have multiple bikes do your utmost to ride them all on a semi-regular basis. $10,000 spent on a bike that gets the snot ridden out of it is a better investment than a $200 bike that is never ridden.

This sounds like the kind of hate speech that only someone with one bike would preach :Banane36:

 

[John U]

This sounds like the kind of hate speech that only someone with one bike would preach :Banane36:

Just advising of the possible downfalls, from experience. Not everyone will see it that way. I didn't when I was collecting a 7 bike quiver. Bottom line is you can only ride one at a time. If you only have one then it'll probably be running sweet as possible and you'll know it like the back of your hand.

More than 1 bike is quite justifiable. For me n+1 is not.

 

[Ideate]

This sounds like the kind of hate speech that only someone with no money and/or a shit mrs would preach :Banane36:

Fixed that for you Kris. When are we going for a smash on the 20"s??

 

[stinky1138]

1. N+1 is not really ideal. N+1 means you need to maintain N+1 bikes, you need to store N+1 bikes, and when the fucking standards change you have N+1 bikes which you can no longer get new parts for (at least without a whole lot of hassle). N+1 bikes is only ideal in the world of someone with unlimited funds/space/or someone who buys bikes just to look at them. Have less bikes and turn them over.
2. If you have multiple bikes do your utmost to ride them all on a semi-regular basis. $10,000 spent on a bike that gets the snot ridden out of it is a better investment than a $200 bike that is never ridden.

N+1 is fucking awesome. It means no matter what the conditions were/are you've always got something to ride. It means that your parts last 4x as long since you don't ride it all the time too. The only shit part of N+1 is when there's 2 people who have "his and hers" of everything. Makes storage annoying.

 

[pharmaboy]

Read the instructions
Use that tiny little rut as a berm
Don't skid.

 

[KouraKoura]

On the trail: Keep looking way down the trail, use your peripheral vision to manage whats under your wheels.

In the shed: Quality tools

Instead of doing what you're paid to be doing during the day: Have an opinionated presence on rotorburn.

 

[spoozbucket]

N+1 is fucking awesome. It means no matter what the conditions were/are you've always got something to ride. It means that your parts last 4x as long since you don't ride it all the time too. The only shit part of N+1 is when there's 2 people who have "his and hers" of everything. Makes storage annoying.

Rubbish, nothing worse than riding with someone that says "Ohhhh I really wish I'd bought XYZ bike." What's the point in having one bike that can do everything if you own a bunch of others. I had an 8" bike a 7" bike an AM hardtail and a DJ bike, I much prefer just having an AM hardtail as my only bike, it's cheap and I can go for a razz in the mud without giving a shit.

 

[Nerf Herder]

1) Clean and relube your dropper now! ...
- monthly there after or after every wet ride or bike wash. 5 min relube as often as you can stand it not very onerous.
2) Don't wash your dropper - wipe it down or cover the seal collar with a plastic bag before your bike wash.
- running water past the wiper\seal means more frequent servicing.
3) Slickoleum is rad.
never use it on your chain though ... the slicko penetrates the pins and pops them out which can be annoying when you are in Rotorua

 

[bikeyoulongtime]

1. ride it like you stole it, do skids, get sideways, huck it, don't huck it, wear tights, don't wear tights. It's mountain fucking biking. We're maintaining our inner/outer children here, not aiming for public service jobs or scoring gymnastics points for correct form on the trail
2. lighten up. ride time is happy time!
3. maintain your bike like the goddess she is.

 

[JoelFitz]

1) Clean and relube your dropper now! ...
- monthly there after or after every wet ride or bike wash. 5 min relube as often as you can stand it not very onerous.
2) Don't wash your dropper - wipe it down or cover the seal collar with a plastic bag before your bike wash.
- running water past the wiper\seal means more frequent servicing.
3) Slickoleum is rad.
never use it on your chain though ... the slicko penetrates the pins and pops them out which can be annoying when you are in Rotorua

Question regarding the relube of dropper.. My KS Lev, I unscrew the collar and put some slickoleum there. Though the other day when I unscrewed the collar, I realised you can then pop up another seal and seemed a more appropriate place to grease down in there.. ??

 

[schred]

1) Buy a digital tyre pressure gauge

Fwiw a digital gauge does not guarantee accuracy. But once you know the delta between a good gauge, your gauge and the pump gauge, and as long as it is consistent you will be ok.

But if you want a nice gauge - for a nice old school style liquid filled analogue, a motionpro would be just fine.
https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0402

And if you want the best and need things within .1% then head to intercomp:
http://www.intercompracing.com/99.99-digital-pressure-gauge-p-180-l-en.html

 

[stinky1138]

Rubbish, nothing worse than riding with someone that says "Ohhhh I really wish I'd bought XYZ bike." What's the point in having one bike that can do everything if you own a bunch of others. I had an 8" bike a 7" bike an AM hardtail and a DJ bike, I much prefer just having an AM hardtail as my only bike, it's cheap and I can go for a razz in the mud without giving a shit.

lol, jack of all, master of none?
N + 1 is fucking awesome, don't be a retard by buying the same bike over and over again.

 

[John U]

And if you want the best and need things within .1% then head to intercomp:
http://www.intercompracing.com/99.99-digital-pressure-gauge-p-180-l-en.html

Have you ever used one of these? I find with a schraeder valve that the pressure measurement can vary by quite a bit depending on the pressure you apply with your thumb/hand to make the gauge seal on the valve. Just wondering if any of these gauges screw on to the valve to remove this variable?

Ideal for my tyre pressure setting process with a schraeder valve would be
1. Pump up tyre to above the desired pressure
2. Screw on gauge
3. Bleed to desired pressure
4. Remove gauge

Don't seem to have this issue with presta valves. The variability seems to be removed because the gauge gets pushed down to the hilt on these valves.