The QUICK question thread.....

[born-again-biker]

JensonUSA for Konas, just missed 20% off from their Memorial day sales as well.

OK cool.
Not quite ready yet... still building 'financial momentum'.... and need to sell current rig first.
But I'll put Jenson on the shopping list later in the year.
(Despite my anti LBS ranting on a recent thread, I am still going to try to purchase from a Tassie shop first, or least give 'em a chance to do a deal...before purchasing in cyberspace...

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[hifiandmtb]

Just a second for this, both my Yeti's were purchased from Competitive Cyclist and they have been fantastic. Well worth grabbing one on sale when they closeout frames.

Like this:

https://www.competitivecyclist.com/...1bnRhaW4gJiBUcmFpbDoxOjE2OmNhdDEwMDIwNzU5Nw==

 

[Cardy George]

Sorry, excuse me.

@Ultra Lord @pink poodle @Zaf @Oddjob @Flow-Rider

Thanks for the replies gents.

As you were

 

[stirk]

I'm cleaning out the dropper cable housing 'again' as it's jamming badly but the cable end has finally become frayed so it's new cable time. I pulled the old cable out and find some strands have even broken half way along the housing, I guess it is 4 years old. Internal dropper or lever dropper will be my next purchase!

Onto my question.

What's the best way to stop the newly cut cable fraying so it can be re threaded into the housing again down the track.

Superglue or solder or other ??

 

[Oddjob]

I'm cleaning out the dropper cable housing 'again' as it's jamming badly but the cable end has finally become frayed so it's new cable time. I pulled the old cable out and find some strands have even broken half way along the housing, I guess it is 4 years old. Internal dropper or lever dropper will be my next purchase!

Onto my question.

What's the best way to stop the newly cut cable fraying so it can be re threaded into the housing again down the track.

Superglue or solder or other ??

Solder but only a tiny amount.

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[pink poodle]

Cable isn't that experiensive man...by the time you get to retreading it, save yourself the epic frustrations and put in a new one.

 

[stirk]

True but it gets clogged up often so would be nice to clean and lube more regularly.

Tried solder and it didn't work, molten bead just rolled off the cable. Used some Loctite instead, see how that goes.

 

[Cardy George]

True but it gets clogged up often so would be nice to clean and lube more regularly.

Tried solder and it didn't work, molten bead just rolled off the cable. Used some Loctite instead, see how that goes.

The thing I was taught about solder is the iron isn't for melting the solder, it's for heating the host metal to the point where the host melts the solder, that's when the solder will flow into the gaps and create a solid join

 

[pink poodle]

True but it gets clogged up often so would be nice to clean and lube more regularly.

Tried solder and it didn't work, molten bead just rolled off the cable. Used some Loctite instead, see how that goes.

I'm struggling to accept this. My cable was mint when I stripped it recently, except for the bit that was frayed. But that was at the lever. How do you get so much gunk insode the sleeve?

 

[stirk]

How do you get so much gunk insode the sleeve?

It's a mountain bike!

Alot of crud ends up around the top of the dropper, especially when I ride in wet conditions, I'm always cleaning sand out of the droppers actuating lever.

 

[pink poodle]

It's a mountain bike!

Alot of crud ends up around the top of the dropper, especially when I ride in wet conditions, I'm always cleaning sand out of the droppers actuating lever.

You must have your crud magnet set to high!

 

[Flow-Rider]

You're meant to silver solder stainless too, lead based solder and stainless is not a good combination.

 

[Zaf]

Have you thought of heat shrinking the cable mount assembly once you've cleaned it, to keep the elements at bay a little more? If you're riding in poor conditions fairly often it might be worth while sealing those kinds of areas off a little bit more.

 

[pink poodle]

Or run some no gaps around all your joins.

 

[stirk]

I didn't have stainless solder so used a dab of loctite superglue and see how that holds up, will the glue fail or form aastrnger bond if it gets grease on it?

I've thought of protecting this area but no ideas have sprung to mind which I think would keep crud out and also allow the lever to work properly.

 

[Flow-Rider]

I didn't have stainless solder so used a dab of loctite superglue and see how that holds up, will the glue fail or form aastrnger bond if it gets grease on it?

I've thought of protecting this area but no ideas have sprung to mind which I think would keep crud out and also allow the lever to work properly.

View attachment 345563

Put a rubber shielded cable ferrule on the end and pack it full or grease.

 

[Oddjob]

I didn't have stainless solder so used a dab of loctite superglue and see how that holds up, will the glue fail or form aastrnger bond if it gets grease on it?

I've thought of protecting this area but no ideas have sprung to mind which I think would keep crud out and also allow the lever to work properly.

View attachment 345563

You need a good gear cable ferrule with the integrated o ring. Also grease the cable with blue marine grease when you install the cable.

This combo should keep the cable smooth until the cable and outer a royally rooted and the whole lot gets replaced once a year.

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[Oddjob]

Put a rubber shielded cable ferrule on the end and pack it full or grease.

Great minds...

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[Zaf]

@stirk ignore them, you need a new seatpost.

 

[Ultra Lord]

I’ve always used triflow on cables, not as messy and lower friction.