The QUICK question thread.....

pink poodle

気が狂っている男
Anyone know where i can get shims to suit a DHX RC? .252" ID are like unicorn shit.
Shims...just so we are on the same page, are you referring to the mounting hardware? Sometimes called reducers? If so I would email your preferred online retailer, especially one with a good rep for suspension (eg NSD or TBSM) and ask them for some. Likely they can hook you up pretty quickly.
 

Boom King

downloaded a pic of moorey's bruised arse
Shims...just so we are on the same page, are you referring to the mounting hardware? Sometimes called reducers? If so I would email your preferred online retailer, especially one with a good rep for suspension (eg NSD or TBSM) and ask them for some. Likely they can hook you up pretty quickly.
Wrong page. Turn to the page headed "shims".
 

B Rabbit

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Hey team :)

Springs for rear shocks:

If my calculated Spring rate is between 350-375, am I better off going for a 350 Spring and winding on it a bit (preload?) or better just going for the 375 spring hope it's not to hard?

Does winding the spring in effect increase its Lbs number/rating? Example, if I have a 350lbs Spring, and I wind it around twice, does it make the spring, say, a '365lbs' Spring?
Hope it makes sense....

Thanks,
Maybe I should put this in the stupid questions thread.......
 

pink poodle

気が狂っている男
Hey team :)

Springs for rear shocks:

If my calculated Spring rate is between 350-375, am I better off going for a 350 Spring and winding on it a bit (preload?) or better just going for the 375 spring hope it's not to hard?

Does winding the spring in effect increase its Lbs number/rating? Example, if I have a 350lbs Spring, and I wind it around twice, does it make the spring, say, a '365lbs' Spring?
Hope it makes sense....

Thanks,
Maybe I should put this in the stupid questions thread.......

Way back when Moses rode bikes...the dude that used to do suspension work for fox at dirt works (Bear) had.an article in mtba mag. He was adamant that you shouldn't tighten your shock springs very far. Like 1 or so turns from memory...so depending on the shock I would be wary just ramping up the spring.

If a simple shock (eg fox vanilla style thing) i would get the heavier spring. If it is too hard, drop back. Ideally get both and try them or at least measure sage etc in the shed...

If a more complex shock (eg a fox rc4) i would go lighter and then use the air and compression features to fine tune the ride.
 

B Rabbit

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Way back when Moses rode bikes...the dude that used to do suspension work for fox at dirt works (Bear) had.an article in mtba mag. He was adamant that you shouldn't tighten your shock springs very far. Like 1 or so turns from memory...so depending on the shock I would be wary just ramping up the spring.

If a simple shock (eg fox vanilla style thing) i would get the heavier spring. If it is too hard, drop back. Ideally get both and try them or at least measure sage etc in the shed...

If a more complex shock (eg a fox rc4) i would go lighter and then use the air and compression features to fine tune the ride.
Thanks for the response :)

It'll be a DHX2 with SLS Spring
 

Knuckles

Lives under a bridge
Winding the spring in will not change the load rating. The spring weight is determined by number of coils and wire gauge and winding diameter.

Coil springs are linear, load to compress stays the same throughout the compression stroke, including preload.
 

Cropduster

Likes Dirt
Hey team :)

Springs for rear shocks:

If my calculated Spring rate is between 350-375, am I better off going for a 350 Spring and winding on it a bit (preload?) or better just going for the 375 spring hope it's not to hard?

Does winding the spring in effect increase its Lbs number/rating? Example, if I have a 350lbs Spring, and I wind it around twice, does it make the spring, say, a '365lbs' Spring?
Hope it makes sense....

Thanks,
Maybe I should put this in the stupid questions thread.......
if your "calculated" spring is determined by your weight then i would definitely want to try both to get the appropriate loaded sag without adding too much additional preload, preload is a good way to fine tune a shock that suits your weight getting sag exactly where you want it of course, but too much preload will reduce your shocks effective travel, it may also cause the spring to bind causing the rear to feel harsh and over sprung, where in fact it's too softly sprung, preload has compressed the spring too far and your compliance and travel are limited.
In short, to get the best performance from a spring that you're buying specifically for you don't compromise and get the spring rate closest to your weight range and fine tune it from there.
 

johnny

I'll tells ya!
Staff member
Coke will get you out of a bind but blends of pineapple juice, coconut water, lime juice and your more tropical kind of kit will kick the goal.
 

pink poodle

気が狂っている男
Does anybody remember the web site dirt works (importer) were using to clear out their old stock please?
 
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