Recent content by Case king

probably placebo

Current will split through the parallel part involving r3, r4 &r5. once you work out the voltage drop across it you can find the current through r3 and the remaining current will go through r4 &r5 and then you can work out the power used in r5

Pretty much what some of the other guys said, it can be a tricky bone to heal because of the blood vessel in it. It took me seven months for mine to heal and be able to ride after they put a screw in it after having 2 casts, but once the screw was in it was a quick process. Just don't...

I know the nationals start happening over the summer holidays but I would like to see a race over that period...or it may just be because I haven't raced the nationals yet.

All three ways...but usually just push up

You could maybe try dropping the crown height

If you riding downhill pretty sure the track is closed for public use. You can get a fine if your caught on the track. plus if you get hurt its a long way out/in depending how far down you are. you could ring and ask them to see if it open im unsure what the xc is like though

For thick slush youd want wet screams for wet ground, slippery rocks, roots ect. swamp things would be the go. there is a chart on the maxxis website about which tyres suit each condition

Wtf broken cyde...fuck that

standing in dog sit and then riding through it

you should get saint hubs or center mounts. one bolt and fast to get off and just as strong

That bike is sick. love the way the linkage works. Sick photos of the building process...really interesting. any chance your going to race it? whats the suspension like under brakes?

1. mondraker... 2. schladming 3. vallnord or Val di sole if i had the choice

krads are mint street tyres but i recon the shit in loose powdery stuff. they grip pretty well on the road, roll real good and are real fun on a wet road. i run around 30 PSI.

I made mine diferently to the wiki I didn't solder inside the unit (only outside) I conneted small wire to the start/stop spring and the lap/reset spring under the PCB. this is because they are joined together on the PCB and I also couldn't solder onto the tab that moves across. I brought...