Recent content by muvro

I'm sporting the Performance series Hans front and rear and I really like them. They certainly suit the the trails I ride, sandstone, sandy hard pack etc.

You will have to get a 1/4" drive torque wrench, as any larger will not have the capability to go down to such a low setting that is required on carbon components. Ensure that the 1/4 drive you are looking at goes low enough as well, some don't. And if possible, make sure it goes lower than...

Ho Le Phuc, that bike is floating on air, awesome camera shot Yeah, it is a great shot isn't it. Yep, sure is Mt Annan rocks. :) I was out at Dargle too. was a great event as usual :) Considering that shot was taken only the second time I'd ridden that bike, let alone a 29er on...

I couldn't answer that, but the correct procedure to torqueing something up is to use lubricant. So I would assume that they spec this.

Well that sucks a fat one!! My Orbea Alma has to use Gore cables... :( Better buy a spare set I haven't used the T2, but my shadow plus is awesome!!!! I use XT mech with XTR shifter. I love it and it's convinced me to upgrade my AM bike from 1x9 to 1x10 with saint shadow plus.

One thing people often forget and/or don't know is to lubricate the thread and the clamping face of the bolt heads, either using a lithium based grease, copper anti-seize or any other extreme pressure lubricant. If you're using loctite, then only apply a smidge of lube to the clamping face of...

My first 29er, it's a customised Occam S30X 29. This replaced my Cannondale Rush carbon as a XC/marathon bike. Standard they are a pretty decently spec'd bike, but in saving for the bike I was also collecting upgrade parts for it. Once I got the bike I stripped it down to a bare frame and pulled...

Three sleeps to go!

The depth of the non-drive BB cup is shallower than the drive side. It'd be fine for a commuter.

I'm not sure if it's just the angle of the picture taken, but it looks like you could get away with moving a spacer to the non-drive side, it'd not ideal, but it will work. This will improve the chainline and possibly reduce the chaindrop. If you're in first gear and pedal backwards fast...

The spacers on the BB are there to space your cranks evenly on your frame (primary use), ensuring your cranks are evenly spaced either side from your chainstays (swing driveside crank around to chainstay and look at spacing, now swing non drive crank to chainstay and check spacing, these should...

Firstly, make sure your chainline is set up correctly, use spacers (I use copper or alloy washers) if you have to. Putting the front chainring as close as you can get to the center of your cassette will eliminate half the chain drops. If it still requires some form of guide, look at the E13 XCX...

It rides pretty well actually, not as punchy out of the hole (say when you put in a big sprint to make a yellow light), but a heap more comfortable. I'm guessing this is because my roady was ally, and this is a carbon mtb, with a bit of flex built in for comfort, therefor sacrificing...

The center of the big ring is about 2.5mm on the outside of the center cog of my 9s cassette and sits about 1mm from the chainstay. Perfect world I'd like it dead center, but hey, who's counting. :) With the 3x cranks I had on orginally, I had to put the spacer on the non-drive side to get...

I was using my road bike for commuting until I converted a carbon hardtail mtb into a road weapon, with rigid fork, road rims on pro2 hubs etc. I was using the big ring(53) on the roady pretty much everywhere with a 11-23 cassette, during the conversion I found I couldn't fit the road cranks to...