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It will void your warranty but luckily it can be reinstalled prior to any warranty claim.

Here's a good read: http://www.sicklines.com/tech/shock_details/

The hard way would be to remove the air top out plate by punching through its pin and setting in at one of the other 2 predrilled holes in the shaft. For some travel reductions this would mean you would have to drill a new hole in the shaft.

Go to Forks, 32mm, Float, Float RLC, then choose the "Changing Travel" link at the top of the page. http://www.foxracingshox.com/fox_tech_center/owners_manuals/09/Eng/2009_OM_eng.htm

This is a good read: http://www.peterverdonedesigns.com/bikesuspension.htm Also, if it's sticking initially it could be your oil seals. Apply some slick honey or the equivalent to the inner portion and you should notice a smoother transition.

Then I would try what Landon mentioned with regards to your system being over filled. It's not really necessary to remove the pads though. Attach a syringe to the lever, put the pad spreader between the pads and you may see some excess fluid go into the syringe as your pistons get pushed back...

The reach adjust moves the lever in or out in relation to the bar, so if you have smaller hands you can move the entire lever closer to the bar. The pad contact adjustment knob determines at which point in the lever throw the pads will contact the rotor. It does not move the pads in any way...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aeTmy6N_VQA&feature=related

The Vivid spirngs are heavier than a Fox. Sorry no 600# weight but my Fox 550x2.8 = 530g and my 500x2.8 = 480g

Use the sping calculator in the Tech Area. http://www.tftunedshox.com/

Yes, they are.

I would use a heat gun.

fitting the gamut guide is not a problem...the problem arises from the gamut bash (or any other bash that isn't a saint)...the chainring tabs on the saint cranks are 2mm thicker than normal...this creates a gap between the bash and the chain when mounted....if a non-saint bash is mounted and...

no mine has never leaked on my 2007 totem coil (2+ seasons) or on my 2008 lyrik coil u-turn (1+ season), but i did a little mod to prevent the damper from blowing...basically the floodgate was removed which dramatically increased oil flow...the fork is super plush and soaks up small bumps...

skwiz05 - not a problem...i took those pics when i serviced mine Lube - sram does have some excellent general maintenance vids on youtube, but they have not posted anything as "intricate" as servicing the mission control damper

these are placed in order (first pic)...just remember that the ball bearing needs to go in first in it's proper slot (see second pic)...the 3rd and on pics are just more close up pics....there's no need to remove the floodgate parts though (4 parts including the gold dome piece on bottom)

the flange on the shimano hub should be fine....if your spokes were hitting the caliper u would see wear marks...if there are no marks then u are alright....if there are, cheapest solution would be setting the caliper all the way outboard. second would be a larger rotor

u can follow sram's instructions for centering the caliper: http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/95-5015-016-000.pdf or u can reset the pistons by pushing them in look at 1:35 to 1:50 in the video as well as 7:15 to 7:35 (obviously your pads are top loaded and not as shown)...

this problem has come up with a few setups...u will be fine if it's not hitting the spokes....there are a few options if u feel uneasy about it: adjust the caliper all the way outboard (u will have to adjust the pads to recenter the rotor) buy a larger rotor put some rotor spacers to...

my choice is lizard skinz logo lock ons.....nice and tacky, decent life span, and comfy