29er Tyre Thread

Hugor

Likes Dirt
I find that so hard to believe but I've read it so many times that it must be true.
Without any significant tread I just can't understand how they could be as good as people claim.
Perhaps its the rubber compound.
 

Antsonline

Likes Dirt
I find that so hard to believe but I've read it so many times that it must be true.
Without any significant tread I just can't understand how they could be as good as people claim.
Perhaps its the rubber compound.
run 'em lower than others. Less tread actually means more rubber on the track, and less gaps between tread.
Like a slick on an F1 car - the increased contact patch of a 29er allows for some different thinking when it comes to traction.

I raced them last year, and on most things they are good.
My only worry was on a loose over hardpack descent at speed round a corner - they did tend to wash-out a bit, but they were Soooo predictable, you could account for it.
 

DW-1

Dirt Works
From Bike Rumour (.com )

http://www.bikerumor.com/2011/03/11...tain-bike-tires/comment-page-1/#comment-72243



"Syncros FLavor (the FL is capped to indicate that they’re part of their Freakin’ Light collection) was first spied at the NAHBS show in Ritchey’s booth on their new 29er. The tread pattern is really short with small knobs, making it look really fast for dry, hard packed trail conditions. Above is the 29×2.25, which weighs in at 619g."

"These are both (they looked at the 26" too) for folding bead (obviously), dual-compound, tubeless ready tires. We can’t compare this to claimed weights because these tires are so new they’re not even listed on Syncros’ website yet. In fact, I think these tires were from their first run and sent over for inspection before the full shipment arrives. Pricing TBD."

Elvis.
 

Coaster

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Hi Guys,

I'm just new to the 29'er world after purchasing a Kona Unit. They come stock with Ignitors so I'm looking to getting something with a lower rolling resistance. I've read the reports on the Xking and Race King but haven't seen comment about them being on the front or back when reviewed.

I'm considering running RK back and XKing front, what are people's thoughts? As a bit of context, I'm a regular weekend warrior along the Yarra mainly and would be commuting as well (maybe 100km a week) and run tubes.

Cheers,

Coaster
 

Bodin

GMBC
Hi Guys,

I'm just new to the 29'er world after purchasing a Kona Unit. They come stock with Ignitors so I'm looking to getting something with a lower rolling resistance. I've read the reports on the Xking and Race King but haven't seen comment about them being on the front or back when reviewed.

I'm considering running RK back and XKing front, what are people's thoughts? As a bit of context, I'm a regular weekend warrior along the Yarra mainly and would be commuting as well (maybe 100km a week) and run tubes.

Cheers,

Coaster
My personal experience with Race King 2.2 (had to run tubes, as I simply couldn't get them to work tubeless) was that they have a fair bit of rolling resistance.

I've only got lighter 1.9 - 2.0 tyres (4 different types) to compare them against, but I was assured they roll really well and that hasn't been my experience. Added to that, they don't have any real puncture resistance at all.

On the plus side, they grip well and are predictable, but the word "Race" does not belong on the side of this tyre. They are training & trail only IMO.
 

Coaster

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Thanks Bodin. I appreciate the information and will scrub that idea. If I wanted rolling resistance I'd keep to my Ignitors! I've grown to love Conti's for some reason, but use an Aspen front and Monorail back on my 26" Anthem so was looking for the Conti equivilent just as a trial. XKing looks good.

Cheers and thanks,

Coaster
 

jathanas

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Thanks Bodin. I appreciate the information and will scrub that idea. If I wanted rolling resistance I'd keep to my Ignitors! I've grown to love Conti's for some reason, but use an Aspen front and Monorail back on my 26" Anthem so was looking for the Conti equivilent just as a trial. XKing looks good.

Cheers and thanks,

Coaster
I'm not sure you'd be willing to consider Schwalbe but the 29 x 2.25 Racing Ralphs offer a nice mix of grip, comfort, and speed. They are expensive. I know you mentioned that you'd run them with tubes but the 2011 Schwalbes are tubeless ready, meaning the tire has a safe bead if you ever choose to head down that path.

I've tried the X-Kings and they don't roll as well as the Race Kings which I didn't find to be as bad as Bodin did.

I'd also recommend the Specialized Fast Trak Control as a faster tire with less grip and bag than the above.

Cheers, J
 
Last edited:

mcdoned

Likes Dirt
The King!

Race Kings not a "race" tyre? Plenty of people race them very happily, because they tick all the right boxes! They've also been chosen on plenty of race-winning bikes!

They're light, have big bag / air volume, have a reasonable sidewall and grip well in most dry conditions. And they go up tubeless on good rims with a floor pump, and stay up!

I think they roll just fine, and they don't squirm on pavement because the knobs are small and stiff.

Never discount the importance of big volume tyres on the front of a rigid bike! It makes a world of difference. Also consider options like Racing Ralph 2.25/2.4. My rigid currently sports a 2.4 Maxxis Ardent on the front, which is great fun.
 

C Dunlop

Likes Dirt
^^ what he said.

race kings are rad. especially good for loose over hard (ie, a lot of the east coast) and a pretty good all-rounder full stop.

schwalbe tyres are great too. spendy but fast and seem to lose their edge after a few rides. Racing ralphs drift really well and nobby nicks are a good front tyre.

I really like WTB vulpines and kenda karmas as fast tyre options.

There's no such thing as a bad tyre, just the wrong tyre, except for anything made by tufo.
 

top_oz_bloke

Likes Dirt
ok, I've just put current model Ralph Snakeskins on current model Crest rims.

Everything that people say about these being a damn tight to fit are true. Unless you're superhuman it's a tyre lever job, but they will go on. TBH not that impressed because I'm not keen for a huge struggle by the side of the trail in the event of a puncture.

Finger crossed they loosen up a bit or it's a bit of a deal breaker for me no matter how good a tyre they are.

A positive though is that they inflated tubeles straight away with a floor pump. They were so tight I reckon you could probably even get them up with a hand pump.

Fit the valve stem first too, otherwise it's a PITA to get in once one bead is on.
 

jathanas

Likes Bikes and Dirt
ok, I've just put current model Ralph Snakeskins on current model Crest rims.

Everything that people say about these being a damn tight to fit are true. Unless you're superhuman it's a tyre lever job, but they will go on. TBH not that impressed because I'm not keen for a huge struggle by the side of the trail in the event of a puncture.

Finger crossed they loosen up a bit or it's a bit of a deal breaker for me no matter how good a tyre they are.

A positive though is that they inflated tubeles straight away with a floor pump. They were so tight I reckon you could probably even get them up with a hand pump.

Fit the valve stem first too, otherwise it's a PITA to get in once one bead is on.
I installed my 2011 2.25 x 29 Snake Skin Ralphs on my Rovals by hand. They were a bit tight but that's a good thing. I enjoy their performance on loose over hardpack.

The Stan's forum is full of people complaining about how hard it is to fit Schwalbes on Stan's rims. So you're not Robinson Crusoe. :)
 

C Dunlop

Likes Dirt
racing ralphs on crests is just a byatch of a combo to get on. big rim, tight tyre... They're a little looser now though. contis are more betterer, geax are more worser IME.
 

charltons

Likes Bikes
When I put my race kings on my Crests, I felt like I had just riden 6hrs. My nylon tyre levers were that bent the ends were nearly touching!
 

abevern

Likes Dirt
She's in the well!

When I put my race kings on my Crests, I felt like I had just riden 6hrs.
Are the crests a larger ID than the previous ZTR offerings (e.g. Arch/355). The RK on my Arch went on pretty easily, and seated up with a floor pump. It is really important to make sure the bead you're trying to get on is in the central well, not sure if you were doing that or not.
 

top_oz_bloke

Likes Dirt
Yeah, my understanding is they have snuck the crests to the upper tolerance of the allowable rim size.

TBH I'm not so convinced that was such a great decision considering the general shift of mfg's to 'tubeless ready' tyres with tighter beads.

Schwalbe's latest offerings are exactly that and as a result the two work out to be a bit of a tough combo.

To give you an idea how tight they are, getting the last bit of bead over the rim made a similar snap to the bead seating.

Hadn't heard anything bad about fitting the conti's until now.
 
Last edited:
Top