Project Car / Motorbike thread. Let's see 'em.

stirk

Burner
Give it a few hard whacks with the flat part of the hammer or even heat it up if you can but don't heat it up until it's red if you're going to reuse it.
Nothing beats the big hammer!

All done now, I just needed a bigger rattler.

Mines the little one and my mates got the big one, for 90% of stuff I do the little one is fine as I prefer to use the breaker first if I can but for this job the big rattler would have saved me loads of time I spent working on some tough bolts. Might need to buy one.

356881
 

Dales Cannon

lightbrain about 4pm
Staff member
Been helping a mate who is a mechanic make bits for a couple of MK I Escorts as well as his MK II. Part of this is fitting S15 struts to them (and early Capris) which involves a bit of machining which is what I do. They need to run smaller diameter springs so the upper and lower perches get turned down and then there is machining the bottom to suit the Escort arms. He then got onto some cheap standard R33 front calipers. These can be used with the S15 struts and rotors out of the DBA catalog to fit with 15" wheels. The calipers are good but most people upgrade the brakes as the front rotors are 297mm diameter (we are running 303mm on ours so same same).

He asked if I could get rid of the proud casting NISSAN on the calipers and of course that was easy. At least that is what I said. The calipers are cast aluminium and the bits that are machined cannot be used to mount the calipers so it was much trial and error to pack up the raw castings at the back and wedge them for milling. The first one took well over an hour before I managed to get a set up that was rigid enough. Anyway it all worked out in the end.



It did make me wish for a laser engraver though...



Got four more to do.
 

Ultra Lord

Hurts. Requires Money. And is nerdy.
Nothing beats the big hammer!

All done now, I just needed a bigger rattler.

Mines the little one and my mates got the big one, for 90% of stuff I do the little one is fine as I prefer to use the breaker first if I can but for this job the big rattler would have saved me loads of time I spent working on some tough bolts. Might need to buy one.

View attachment 356881
I have both. Fantastic bits of kit, I put the big one through hell installing lifting plates and taking off chiller end plates.
 

hifiandmtb

Sphincter beanie
Seems like they may well be out-Tesla'ing Tesla:


Better battery cooling methods & one battery pack is 180kWh.

Doesn't address the CO2 burp upon manufacturing though...
 

stirk

Burner
Especially because the OEM that’s older then you, will have shims shattered and bent into the open position.
The old shocks were doing their job a little too well.

When I compressed the shock it stayed compressed so the torsion bar had extra work to do uncompressing the shock.

Ride is heaps better, less wallowing as the spring and shock return to normal quicker.

Next week is tie rods and I'm not looking forward to these, half tempted to get my mechanic to do it but I'm determined to do it myself and spend the saved cash on MTB stuff.

"Size doesn’t matter", my wife says.
Corrected!
 

Dales Cannon

lightbrain about 4pm
Staff member
Haven't done much for the Escort lately. #2 has just finished exams and as I was making all manner of brackets and things to fit R33 calipers to other cars thought I would have a go on the Escort. The coil over struts we are running are a rally strut used on Mk I and II Capris and uses the same lower links and mounting points as a standard Escort but with a bigger strut insert. Thus a cunning plan and some devious bracketry was needed.

So the cardboard template became a chopping board test piece:



Which I drew around and redrafted so it could be laser cut that became this:



which was drilled as needed and bolted on to do this:



Wont improve outright braking ability for a single stop but will let us run a bigger mastercylinder on the front and improve pedal feel and fade resistance. Have to strip the paint of this and the other side (horribly worserer, looks like 3mm of paint in places) and then remove the offensive N word. And a caliper rebuild kit.

While I was at it I had a go at fitting them to the XR4 too. The brakes as I modified them were fine for the track but not enough bite for the sprints. I can try different pads but the idea of some decent 4 pot calipers has that certain appeal:



Note the brake cooling duct!
Works really well until you try and put the wheel back on. Not enough offset in the rotor hat to clear the inside face of the wheel even with a temporary 6mm spacer (just). I bought a VE/VF SV6 cheapie front rotor and will redrill that tomorrow 4x108 and see if that helps. The SV6 rotor is 8mm more offset which is about as much as I can get away with and still clear the lca. If it is touch and go I can trial some spacers which will mean I need to crank some more negative camber... Not as hopeful of the outcome as I was with the Escort.
 

Dales Cannon

lightbrain about 4pm
Staff member
So as far as the XR4 is concerned that is a no.

The Holden rotors are 6mm bigger offset but...

...the rotors are 32mm thick compared to 28mm thick for the current rotors so 2mm of that offset is lost. Then the hub face is 3mm thicker, presumably because the SV6 is a lot heavier on the nose than the XR. So after all that I only gain 1mm extra clearance between the rotor face and the inside face of the wheel. And then the rotor only just clears the lca ball joint gaitor. Just is a number between 0mm and almost 0mm. Naturally I measured all this first before spending an hour setting up and redrilling the Holden rotor, jacking up the XR4 and taking off the wheel, caliper and rotor and then fitting the modified rotor and mounting the caliper with bungy straps and cable ties and love and then putting the wheel back on with a 6mm spacer to determine the gap (0mm). Of course I did.

Realistically I need to hunt for a 4pot caliper which measures under 50mm from the outer face to the outer rotor face. I could machine the face of the R33 caliper because it has a raised section where the N word is cast but it is also possible there is a fluid gallery behind there so I wont be trying that. The hunt will continue. Any additional offset on the wheels will mean the tyres rub on the guards so that is a no. Fancy wheels with more inside spacing is a possibility but that equals $ which I would rather spend on the other shell. The big brake kits in the UK for the ST150s use a Brembo branded caliper and 345mm rotor which also means running 17" wheels and tyres and I want to stick with 16s because that gives us some more sidewall and slightly lower gearing both of which are important for the sprints and hillclimbs.

The search will continue!
 
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