The stupid questions thread.

andrew9

Likes Dirt
Single speed conversions?
With the standard single speed conversion kits, the type that go on a shimano "10 speed" freehub with a pile of spacers each side, is even chain tension achievable?

Every sprocket I've tried has play on the freehub, and gives the chain tight (or loose) spots.
If I spin the cranks to the tight spot and squeeze the chain, I can see the sprocket move and the tight spot goes away.
Is this just normal for single speeds? I don't remember my old bmx's having loose/tight chains

I can run a tensioner to fix it, but the frame does have adjustable dropouts so shouldn't need it
 
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B Rabbit

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Hey! Wheel building newb here, I'm going to be switching out the hubs on my wheels to boost. I'm running LB 38mm charbon rims. My currents hubs are straight pull, but my new hubs are j-bend so new spokes needed.
I've contacted LB in regards to what spoke length I need and they have said I need;
Front Non drive side: 264
Front Drive side: 266
Rear Non Drive: 263
Rear Drive side: 265

I've found spokes for a good price online, but they don't have 263 and 265 spokes, is there any reason I couldnt just go 264 and 266 spokes? Just means the non drive side spokes would be 1mm longer, I cant see any logical reason why this would be a problem, but then again I don't know shit about spokes.
Thanks!
 

Flow-Rider

Burner
Hey! Wheel building newb here, I'm going to be switching out the hubs on my wheels to boost. I'm running LB 38mm charbon rims. My currents hubs are straight pull, but my new hubs are j-bend so new spokes needed.
I've contacted LB in regards to what spoke length I need and they have said I need;
Front Non drive side: 264
Front Drive side: 266
Rear Non Drive: 263
Rear Drive side: 265

I've found spokes for a good price online, but they don't have 263 and 265 spokes, is there any reason I couldnt just go 264 and 266 spokes? Just means the non drive side spokes would be 1mm longer, I cant see any logical reason why this would be a problem, but then again I don't know shit about spokes.
Thanks!
Best off going shorter length unless you're close to 2mm under, yeah not many places sell odd numbered length spokes. Run brass nipples too.
 

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
What you really want to see is the exact calculated lengths and round from there to the nearest even-numbered increment; i.e if the exact length is 262.7mm for example, you'd round that down to 262. But if it was 263.4, you'd round up to 264. But if the eaxct calculations are unavailable, I'd round up, because not only do you only have two lengths to buy (and think about spares for), you'll have a bit more spoke threading up into the nipple heads, which greatly reduces the risk of nipple breakage. You need to seriously overdo the spoke length to run out of thread.
 

ctguru

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Hey! Wheel building newb here, I'm going to be switching out the hubs on my wheels to boost. I'm running LB 38mm charbon rims. My currents hubs are straight pull, but my new hubs are j-bend so new spokes needed.
I've contacted LB in regards to what spoke length I need and they have said I need;
Front Non drive side: 264
Front Drive side: 266
Rear Non Drive: 263
Rear Drive side: 265

I've found spokes for a good price online, but they don't have 263 and 265 spokes, is there any reason I couldnt just go 264 and 266 spokes? Just means the non drive side spokes would be 1mm longer, I cant see any logical reason why this would be a problem, but then again I don't know shit about spokes.
Thanks!
What’s the ERD of the rim? Probably worth checking the spoke lengths yourself to double check the lengths


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

flamin'trek

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Why does stuff that meant to be crunchy (bikkies) go soft when it gets stale, but stuff like bread that starts out soft get crunchy if you leave it out?
 

Staunch

Eats Squid
Single speed conversions?
With the standard single speed conversion kits, the type that go on a shimano "10 speed" freehub with a pile of spacers each side, is even chain tension achievable?
I've been running singlespeed on two different Funn 9sp hubs for years and never had an issue. I guess it depends on the quality of the singlespeed sprocket used at the rear in regards to avoiding play on the freehub body.
I've always used 1/8th ones (with a 1/8th chain and 3/32 ring up front) because they tend to be thicker and hence cut into the splines of the freehub body less. I did have a 3/32 ring at the back once and that started to chew through the splines and caused play/looseness in the chain, so worth checking that that hasn't occurred.
I'd tell you the brand of sprocket I'm using but it's been so long since I set it up that I can't remember.
 
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Flow-Rider

Burner
What you really want to see is the exact calculated lengths and round from there to the nearest even-numbered increment; i.e if the exact length is 262.7mm for example, you'd round that down to 262. But if it was 263.4, you'd round up to 264. But if the eaxct calculations are unavailable, I'd round up, because not only do you only have two lengths to buy (and think about spares for), you'll have a bit more spoke threading up into the nipple heads, which greatly reduces the risk of nipple breakage. You need to seriously overdo the spoke length to run out of thread.
I bought a second hand bike from ebay years ago where someone had fitted spokes that went past the flat in the nipple, the wheel had a bad buckle in it but when I went to true it the frigging nipples bottomed out. I checked the bottoming distance from running the spoke flush in the screw driver slot and there was only 1mm before it bottomed out. You can still be about 2.5mm short and have enough thread engagement not to cause any problems the other way.

It's best to have spokes that are flush with nipples but not always practical as every spoke calculator gives you a slightly different reading. If I get a measurement like 261.8 I normally just go up but anything under I round down and I don't normally bother with alloy nipples so it's not that critical. I normally sit the spokes on a ruler and pick the longer spokes out for the outside spokes of the hub as that's another problem because the spokes are never all the exact same length.
 

Minlak

custom titis
Why does stuff that meant to be crunchy (bikkies) go soft when it gets stale, but stuff like bread that starts out soft get crunchy if you leave it out?
I have been wondering this very thing for many many years.
Starch and Sugar

Starch in bread makes it go hard when it gets stale and dries out. The Sugar in biscuits absorbs water and overpowers the starch and makes them go soft.
 

moorey

call me Mia
Starch and Sugar

Starch in bread makes it go hard when it gets stale and dries out. The Sugar in biscuits absorbs water and overpowers the starch and makes them go soft.
But is it as simple as that? What about dry biscuits and sweet biscuits? They dry biscuits still contain starch I assume, and can go soft, whereas sweet biscuits contain sugar, and can go hard.
 

Freediver

I can go full Karen
It's the moisture content they start with. Biscuits have low moisture content so absorb moisture from air and bread has a high moisture content so it loses water to the air.
 

moorey

call me Mia
I doubt it, seeing most breads are vegan, and I'm talking about biscuits like BBQ shapes and jam fancies that all you flogs also eat.
 
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