With the friction plate, there would be the option to put a bushing in the top hole and a hitch pin in the bottom hole, allowing it to tilt. But the bushing would take a lot of load unless you can scallop the bottom edge to take the vertical load but still allow tilting.
Yeah I was thinking about that but my original idea was to keep it simple.
With a welded joint like that you are better to have flat plate gussets on each side of the SHS tube. Like with trailers, you need to avoid welding across the tube (like the direction of the car width) as this prevents cracking of the joint.
Looks like a carbon copy of the shingleback?
Think the shingleback is a copy of the recon.
Yeah cool, thanks for the reply. I was talking to a mate who’s a fitter and he was saying that also and talking about welds peeling from repeated live loading in that direction.
Mine will swing out to the side of the vehicle, that's the main difference, as these type of racks tend not to be able to tilt loaded.
Sounds awesome, send me some pictures when it’s done.
Shouldn't be that much load when swung out. The Reese tow bar on my Triton is fairly hefty so it may differ on different more lightly built bars.
That looks mad! I hope it works could be a game changer.
Will a light bar fit on it somewhere?
I might have a play with how I can integrate a light bar and plate holder. Tricky with this kind of rack
Best bet will be lights on a separate board like you can get for boat trailers and then hang this off the seatposts. Supercrap and the other suspects sell one that has a plastic board as the base so light (weight!) and no damage to bits.
There are a few swing racks but they all swing to the wrong side (traffic side), mine swings the curb side
We have almost exactly the same idea and I'm already building mine.
Ah nice. I'm probably not going to go into it too seriously, but I might have a few mates interested.
nice point, I hadn't considered that